Haltech ps1000 FD bac main settings
05-17-15, 02:52 PM
#2
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Hi! This is for 13B-RE and E11V2. I think it might be a start point for you. No big difference between PS1000 and old E series with BAC.
You should set a stable idling without BAC at hot car with the throttle stop screw.
PID 50/50/0 it is a good start point anyway. Integral might be from 22 to 50.
You should read the manual to undestand what you do.
You should set a stable idling without BAC at hot car with the throttle stop screw.
PID 50/50/0 it is a good start point anyway. Integral might be from 22 to 50.
You should read the manual to undestand what you do.
05-17-15, 08:13 PM
#3
The start and min duty will be different for every car. It's based on where the throttle stop is set and how much duty cycle you need to achieve the desired idle speed.
The BAC valve is like an injector in that the response is not linear near the upper and lower limits of duty cycle. Generally, you want the valve running between 20 and 80% duty. Above and below that, there isn't much change in air flow for a given change in duty.
PID is generally an empirical process. Again, what works for one won't necessarily work for others. There's a Motec webinar that describes PID control and how to tune them very well. It's worth the watch. Got to Motec's site and you'll find their library of webinars. Also, hit F1 when in the ECU Manager software to open Haltech's manual. Read their tips on PID setup. The best hint I can give you on any PID circuit is to get the mechanical control as close as possible to limit what the ECU needs to do. In this case, disable idle control by turning it off or unplugging the BAC. Set the idle stop to about 50 rpm below the desired idle speed. Use timing to help stabilize the idle. If the engine likes 10* BTDC at idle, for example, set the idle speed advance to 7*. This gives you some reserve advance to generate torque to raise the idle speed when it dips. Set the advance slightly higher below the target and slightly lower above the target. In this way, the ignition advance is working to stabilize the idle speed. You should be able to get a nice smooth, steady idle without even using the BAC. At this point you can plug the BAC in and see what you get. In the end, the BAC really only needs to do a lot of work to support cold engine idle up.
The BAC valve is like an injector in that the response is not linear near the upper and lower limits of duty cycle. Generally, you want the valve running between 20 and 80% duty. Above and below that, there isn't much change in air flow for a given change in duty.
PID is generally an empirical process. Again, what works for one won't necessarily work for others. There's a Motec webinar that describes PID control and how to tune them very well. It's worth the watch. Got to Motec's site and you'll find their library of webinars. Also, hit F1 when in the ECU Manager software to open Haltech's manual. Read their tips on PID setup. The best hint I can give you on any PID circuit is to get the mechanical control as close as possible to limit what the ECU needs to do. In this case, disable idle control by turning it off or unplugging the BAC. Set the idle stop to about 50 rpm below the desired idle speed. Use timing to help stabilize the idle. If the engine likes 10* BTDC at idle, for example, set the idle speed advance to 7*. This gives you some reserve advance to generate torque to raise the idle speed when it dips. Set the advance slightly higher below the target and slightly lower above the target. In this way, the ignition advance is working to stabilize the idle speed. You should be able to get a nice smooth, steady idle without even using the BAC. At this point you can plug the BAC in and see what you get. In the end, the BAC really only needs to do a lot of work to support cold engine idle up.
Last edited by C. Ludwig; 05-17-15 at 08:18 PM.
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