Has anyone out there had any experience with the Haltech Trim **** for Fuel/timing adjustments? Is it handy tuning tool to justify its price?

Thanks for the responses

 

well worth the price. some on this board have built there own for only a couple bucks, so be sure to check the archives for details. but even for the $30-$40 I paid it has been a great tool for setting up the car.

 

There is no building at all necessary. All it is, is an adjustable resistor. I have the part number at home from radio shack, but it is a 0-10k ohm resistor with a 300* sweep. Cost is around $3.

 

yip, thats the one, i picked one up for $4.95NZ

 

I use the trim **** in my race car, usually in very hot weather only, to make the mix more reach to try to cool off the engine.
It is only good if you have a exhaust temp gage.


Good luck

 

Tell me more about the mysterious partnumber, shounds especially good at a 30X discount =D how do you wire this adjustable resistor up!

 

trim **** also good for starting your car the first time when the maps you have are WAY TOO RICH!

10k 1/4Watt (so the cheapest you can find!!) potentiometer

3 terminal device -- hook up ground and +5V to the outer connectors and the middle terminal as the signal. So for the haltech you get .... 3 terminal GM sytle connector:

black: ground: take your pick of outer pot connectors
orange: +5V: use the other outer pot connector
blk/wht: signal: use middle pot connector

You now have a working trim ****.

 

What he said.

Rev. Dr. Jay
http://ricemobile.net/

 

BTW, the rich/lean **** on the 86-88 FC's are perfectly compatible for use on the E6K trim *****. Like the E6K, the stock 86-88 ECU uses a 5v ref to the ****.

Paul

 

radio shack Part # 271-1715

 

How do you use the trim ****?

I install the radio shack one, and changed the trim control settings in the input/output setup page, to fuel (fine). What would be the next step?

 

Bumping a old thread . Looking to install a trim **** on my e6k . Was wondering if anyone could tell me how to setup it up in the computer . I know there's 2 gm style connectors at the harness into the computer . I can connect to either of this right . And then just set it up in the computer . Thanks guys

 

I took the concept a bit further with a GM knock box and voltage divider so the "normal" voltage sits at 2.5v and drops when the knock sensor detects knock. This tells my Haltech "Hey, pull the timing" in a slick, automatically controlled system. The more the voltage drops, the more timing is pulled, up to 10 degrees.

 

Thanks man for the heads up on that man . But I'm actually looking to buy old one for fuel to lean out my map a lil all across and to help tune my fuel maps better . I have a RadioShack by me and a guitar center , can I use a potentiometer from a guitar . Does it have to be a 10k pot, or can it be more ?

 

I don't know about guitars, but generally audio potentiometers are not linear.

You'd want a linear one.

Also, if your map is too rich, it seems you'd want to tune it correctly as opposed to trimming it out. Just seems like asking for trouble to me.

 

Well went to radio shack and got the above part number and a **** for 7 bucks . Already made a bracket . As far as tuning goes its really going to be used to fine tune the lean and rich spots once running . Ill beable to lean or riching out the mix in certain spots and see how much percentage it was to get it right and then go back to the map and correct it there . Since there's no rotary tuners here in Austin,tx . I going bout it myself which is alearning experience in its self , but more gratifying in the end knowing I did the build and tune inmy garage . Thanks for the info , for it will help some else looking to do this and know what type to get . I'll update once it's running and able to us it .