I'm thinking the Haltech is dead, but maybe someone can shed light on this.

Well a few months ago I had just installed the MSD LS1 coils and got the car running but I noticed a fuel leak next to my coil box. So i went ahead and ripped out the coils to get to the leak. Well the leak is now fixed, but now I have no spark from the coils. I have test everything that I can think of. All the fuses, wiring looks good, I even checked the grounds and every thing looks good, including the triggers sensors.

Although I checked the power output on the ignition I found that I had the, IGN, DIG1, DIG2 wires only had 1.6 volts when cranking but I should be getting 5 volts. The 12 volt source was good.

Pls HELP!!!

 

Is there any place in the US that can test the ECU?

 

You can send it to Haltech USA in Kentucky. You probably want to call them first with the information and for pricing. Haltech USA's contact information can be found on the Haltech site.

 

You will not see voltage on the ignition outputs. The trigger signal they output is such a short duration you won't see it with a VOM. You'll need a o-scope to see it.

Do you have 12v at the coils on pin D while the engine is cranking?
Do you have continuity to ground on pins A and B?
Do you have an RPM signal at the ECU while cranking?

 

Well when cracking the engine the volts drop down to 9 volts, from 11.5.

The grounds at A, B are both good.

I have 60 rpm when cranking.

 

FYI.... Legacy system support (ie. anything DOS) no longer has free ECU support, as far as sending it for a check up they may be able to just do that, check it, if not it has to go to Oz to get repaired. I think its time you upgraded to a new system and get the benefit of the added features and better performance, and not to mention more outputs to go around.

If voltage drops to 9 volts its too low and it probably wont start, you may need to modify your Battery Comp map, and make sure Dwell time is set to at least 5mS or more.

So you might want to have a new battery on there, with good cold cranking amps, and if anything, a charger set to THE LOWEST POSSIBLE SETTING!

And 60 RPMs during cranking is too low. Again, a new battery would be warranted.

 

Yeah I was thinking that, upgrading. I just dont want to rewire the car again, but I think its about that time.

The battery is a new PC680 so it has the amps that are needed.

 

Ok its dead, I just opened the case on the haltech and found corrosion (white powder) all over the motherboard and coving the chip termanals.

? The Black/Yellow wire(fuel relay) is a ground signal from the ECU? Just asking since the relay was not switching and no power was going to the pump.

 

a few pistures of the board/

 

Well, there may be something to that powder, maybe something is shorted and the ECU does need cleaning, you could give it a try, get "Contact Cleaner" and a can of compressed air (used to clean computer parts) and spraying light amounts of contact cleaner and then properly blow it clean using the compressed air, see if the ECU comes back to life.

Also, are you able to go online with it? Always try that first when ever the car doesnt start, that way you can see whats going on.

FYI, WD-40 IS NOT! contact cleaner, contact cleaner is non conductive, and is meant to clean computer parts, WD-40 would ruin the board.

 

I would of never thought to use WD40, but I guess someone did. So thanks. But your right its time to move on, this unit has had so many ghosts in it I'm just going to send it in have it repaired and then sell it, Im just going to get the p1000.

 

I know its not what you'd wanna hear, but sometimes it is better to get past that in the end. The Sport 1000 will definitely NOT disappoint you. If you send me your last tuned map that ran the car properly i will transpose it to ECU Manager for you, even add the necessary output configured already to what you have it now so you wont have to do much other than load it, start the car and go play. The tune may vary a little since the Sport will give you sequential fueling and direct fire, so the only thing you will to rewire are the coils, and maybe fine tune the fuel maps a bit. The LS1 coils will surprise you in direct fire operation too, i have a customer in Curacao with a drag miata that runs a set of LS1 coils and the car makes over 650 to the wheels on methanol with no issues. And i am sure you will feel the difference in the way the engine revs after the added resolution and processing power of the Sport over the K.

Keep me posted.

 

Thanks Claudio, That would be great, but I never got the car run with boost, I did the rebuild and sent out the injectors for cleaning, but when I got around to putting it all together the secendary injectors froze and the hole time I thought it was my tunning or wiring was bad. So I put 200 mile on the new engine just going around the block tring to get boost. Well I should be getting the unit in the next 3 weeks so all I really need a base map with 720/1680inj, 3bar map, MSD LS1 coils and two out puts for the fans, but I'm sure you already have that on the Base Map Tread.