Haltech No RPM/spark in Halwin... another
So I searched the hell out of the site and have tried a bunch of stuff... here is where I'm at, any help would be great, up against the wall on this one. Firmware issue? Bad haltech?
All other sensors are registering.
So I quadruple checked the following...
Proper connection from CAS to loom:
CAS - Loom
Red - Yellow (trig +)
White - Red (trig -)
Green - Green (Home +)
W/Black - Blue (Home -)
All other sensors are registering.
So I quadruple checked the following...
Proper connection from CAS to loom:
CAS - Loom
Red - Yellow (trig +)
White - Red (trig -)
Green - Green (Home +)
W/Black - Blue (Home -)
why have you hooked the trigger (-) to the 12v bus??? the whites in the CAS tie together and go to the BLUE haltech wire
http://img837.imageshack.us/img837/9...8201000000.jpg
ignore the 12V,, its for hall effect and optic senders, not for mazda Vr
Vr negatives are common,, this amounts to the CAS ( whites ) being tied together into the ECU ignition input earth wiring ( blue )
for FC type CAS--
24 tooth multitooth trigger in the CAS ( red ) goes to input trigger ( yellow )
2 tooth home event trigger in the CAS ( green ) goes to HOME input ( green )
ignore the 12V,, its for hall effect and optic senders, not for mazda Vr
Vr negatives are common,, this amounts to the CAS ( whites ) being tied together into the ECU ignition input earth wiring ( blue )
for FC type CAS--
24 tooth multitooth trigger in the CAS ( red ) goes to input trigger ( yellow )
2 tooth home event trigger in the CAS ( green ) goes to HOME input ( green )
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,204
Likes: 1
From: Cincinnati, Oh
http://www.hitman.hm/installation.htm
try it, i am pretty sure i am right
cause thats exactly what i have done on a previous E6K ( on a 13bt ) and also for a toyota 1JZ on an E6S ( which have notoriously difficult Vr )
and also have on my current e8 setup
the 12V has no place in Vr systems !
( check out also the sprint 500 notes ! )
what do you have to lose????
one snip, one solder at the CAS, join the CAS whites to the haltech blue wire, bingo, crank signal
cause thats exactly what i have done on a previous E6K ( on a 13bt ) and also for a toyota 1JZ on an E6S ( which have notoriously difficult Vr )
and also have on my current e8 setup
the 12V has no place in Vr systems !
( check out also the sprint 500 notes ! )
what do you have to lose????
one snip, one solder at the CAS, join the CAS whites to the haltech blue wire, bingo, crank signal
not trying to ignore any advice, but i didnt use hitmans's, mine came with a cut harness that was very short so i extended all the wires and labled them per the haltech diagram on there website, then i used bdc's notes, ill double check the wiring again tomorrow when i get the chance to and compare with hitmans






