Haltech No RPM/spark in Halwin... another
#26
talking head
So I searched the hell out of the site and have tried a bunch of stuff... here is where I'm at, any help would be great, up against the wall on this one. Firmware issue? Bad haltech?
All other sensors are registering.
So I quadruple checked the following...
Proper connection from CAS to loom:
CAS - Loom
Red - Yellow (trig +)
White - Red (trig -)
Green - Green (Home +)
W/Black - Blue (Home -)
All other sensors are registering.
So I quadruple checked the following...
Proper connection from CAS to loom:
CAS - Loom
Red - Yellow (trig +)
White - Red (trig -)
Green - Green (Home +)
W/Black - Blue (Home -)
why have you hooked the trigger (-) to the 12v bus??? the whites in the CAS tie together and go to the BLUE haltech wire
http://img837.imageshack.us/img837/9...8201000000.jpg
ignore the 12V,, its for hall effect and optic senders, not for mazda Vr
Vr negatives are common,, this amounts to the CAS ( whites ) being tied together into the ECU ignition input earth wiring ( blue )
for FC type CAS--
24 tooth multitooth trigger in the CAS ( red ) goes to input trigger ( yellow )
2 tooth home event trigger in the CAS ( green ) goes to HOME input ( green )
ignore the 12V,, its for hall effect and optic senders, not for mazda Vr
Vr negatives are common,, this amounts to the CAS ( whites ) being tied together into the ECU ignition input earth wiring ( blue )
for FC type CAS--
24 tooth multitooth trigger in the CAS ( red ) goes to input trigger ( yellow )
2 tooth home event trigger in the CAS ( green ) goes to HOME input ( green )
#27
http://www.hitman.hm/installation.htm
#28
talking head
try it, i am pretty sure i am right
cause thats exactly what i have done on a previous E6K ( on a 13bt ) and also for a toyota 1JZ on an E6S ( which have notoriously difficult Vr )
and also have on my current e8 setup
the 12V has no place in Vr systems !
( check out also the sprint 500 notes ! )
what do you have to lose????
one snip, one solder at the CAS, join the CAS whites to the haltech blue wire, bingo, crank signal
cause thats exactly what i have done on a previous E6K ( on a 13bt ) and also for a toyota 1JZ on an E6S ( which have notoriously difficult Vr )
and also have on my current e8 setup
the 12V has no place in Vr systems !
( check out also the sprint 500 notes ! )
what do you have to lose????
one snip, one solder at the CAS, join the CAS whites to the haltech blue wire, bingo, crank signal
#33
Going Nowhere
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not trying to ignore any advice, but i didnt use hitmans's, mine came with a cut harness that was very short so i extended all the wires and labled them per the haltech diagram on there website, then i used bdc's notes, ill double check the wiring again tomorrow when i get the chance to and compare with hitmans