It looks like it leans out a little when it's using all the plugs!:-)
I know it's lean. I'm going to richen it up a little.
How does my timing look?

 

looking at your datalog.... how did you go from 5960rpm to 4400 in two tenths of a second?? Is that possible? I mean thats dropping 1560rpm pretty fast.

 

Just looked at the rest of your datalog and it looks like all of your rpm readings are looking strange, whats up with the varying readouts? Goes up and then goes down when your TPS reading is at 100%.

hehe, another thought. Could your TPS be giving the haltech a false reading ??

PS. I'm not tring to be a post *****, just looks like it.

 

Yeah your a little lean....I was hitting 830-860 for a/f ratios on the dyno at wot giving me a 11:5:1. Why do your rpms go up and down in a few spots?

And how did you take a snap shot of your datalog, i've never been able to figure that out.

 

It's called shifting.
Here is the full datalog form 1st to 4th.

 

Unless you shift while holding the throttle at 100% I don't think thats the case. Look at the datalog that you posted in this thread, you will see that you have the TPS at 100% so I'm assuming you are accelerating at a steady rate. I see where you shifted in the other logs, the tps goes to 0 and the MAP also goes into the negative range. Take another look at your datalog.

 

But your throttle position stays at 100%, so how can your rpm speed go from 5020....5140....5080.....5140.....5080....ect while your at 100% throttle?

 

Oh... I see what you are saying!

I think there is something going on with the wiring to my trailing coil. The other day, I was driving and my RPM's were bouncing all over the place?
I got out and adjusted some wires away from the coil, and it seemed to straighten it out?

 

I just went out and looked things over!
The 12mm nuts on my throttle cable have come loose!
That explains why I couldn't calibrate the throttle!
I will tighten them up, get it to idle at 750 and run my adjusted map tomorrow and see what it does.

I richened it up a little from 9-16 PSI 4500-5500 RPM and leaned it out a little below that.

I'm trying to get a steady 850mv throughout the whole powerband.

Eventually I will get it!

Thanks for pointing that out you guys!

 

No problem

 

Also just looked at how fast you shifted once, 3/10ths of a second to shift! You shift mad quick yo!

not bad

 

Thanks! I have practiced my shifting a lot!

I am getting ready to take it the track. Hoping to beat my previous best of 13.7.

I have done a lot to my car since then, so it shouldn't be too hard.

 

Wait a minute, just thought about your throttle cable problem. Duh.. that woulden't give the haltech the false engine rpm reading. Maybe not a very good reading from the tps but I still think you have other problems with your rpm pickup or something? If the haltech thinks the engine is spinning faster/slower than it really is that would screw up the fuel metering right and maybe cause that detionation you were talking a bout??

 

Uhm.... I found my leading spark plug wires were crossed. 1 going to 2 and 2 going to 1.
I don't know if that would make any difference, but I am going to data log it and see. Also I found my Jacobs box was dead. That might of been about the time it died?

 

Oh, tonight at the track my clutch went out and I ended up with the same kind of rpm pattern you have...where it goes up and down. Maybe your clutch is starting to slip?

 

It's a brand new ACT 6 Puck?

Maybe I should burn it in!

The funny thing about that, is when that that happens, I can't feel it. It seems to be pulling VERY hard at that point.

 

Well if its a brand new act clutch, then the problem is probably something else. How do you like that 6 puck anyways?

 

The problem with your RPM shifting like this is most likely caused by your crank angle sensor, (see attached). You can probably correct this problem by adjusting/bending the little metal tab on the crank angle sensor plate. If this tab is to close or to far from the sensor you will experience this problem. The manual says to use a gap of 1-2 MM but with the Haltech we have found that you need to use more like 3MM. Apparently the signal is to strong for the Haltech to read properly. On many cars including mine with the Haltech the gap has been increased to correct this problem.
This problem could damage your motor and its very easy to fix, so don't wait. The correct way to adjust it is to scope the crank angle signal but you can set it for 3MM and then make fine adjustments if necessary until you don't see the RPM jumping around like that.

Good luck,

Eric

 

I believe the original poster owns an FC3S.&nbsp The FC3S used a CAS, which is a vastly different design than the FD3S ignition trigger input.&nbsp You really can't "bend a tab" to adjust the magnet spacing.



-Ted

 

yea
But he meant well
and it very useful info for FD owners

 

I often forget that not everyone has an FD
However it is still a dangerous problem and is most likely caused by your Crank angle sensing circuit. Perhaps someone familiar with FC's might have some usefull advice on how to check it?

Regards,


Eric