Haltech heltech not getting fuel
09-26-12, 10:23 PM
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heltech not getting fuel
well i got my heltech e6x installed and for some reason its not getting fuel.. i have spark but its not even trying to start.. the plugs arent wet so its not flooding .. im lost so if any one has any idea i would appreciate it.. o i dont have the tps hooked up is that an issue?
09-27-12, 08:23 AM
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Yea the fuel pump comes on. The way its set up is the main fuel line comes off the pump to the fuel filter to the primary inj.. Then from the secondary to the fpr then to the tank .. The fpr gauge say 40 psi .. So it has fuel to the inj. But it seems to me that the haltech is not letting the injectors fire ..
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09-27-12, 06:50 PM
#8
Going to be a dumb question, but have you checked the main ECU ground, power and ignition-switched wires to ensure a solid connection for all of them? I know from personal experience that a Platinum Sport 2000 will show up as Online in ECU Manager with as low as 7.2 volts by using a power supply that couldn't produce sufficient current to maintain 12v under the load of the ECU. Bypassed all the relays, then added them back in one at a time while watching a voltmeter and the power LED on the ECU
Warning: Wordy, but quick & easy diagnosis procedure ahead
Injector grounds are the injector signal wires from the ECU, one wire per injector. I'd wager that the ECU has a NPN transistor on each injector and ignition output that pulses on/off as the injector or coil is asked by the ECU to fire. When the ECU needs to fire either one, it supplies a tiny current to the transistor, which connects it to the ECU's Ground wire in a fashion similar to a relay. This may sound elementary, but if the ECU ground is not solid and clean, nothing that the ECU controls will have a good, solid ground either.
You do not need the injectors or ignition coils connected to obtain a RPM signal in Halwin or ECU Manager. This comes from the Crank Angle Sensor. Try disconnecting both the coils & injectors and cranking your engine with a laptop connected. You'll see the cranking RPM in Halwin/ECU Manager. This is how I determined that starters from Autozone were only cranking at 70 RPM compared to 170 RPM on my OE Mazda one.
The simplest manner to diagnose this is to test for continuity in all of your wiring. First up is power and ground between the ECU and their respective targets. Then do the Ignition-switched wire. Resistance will be approximately 0.06 ohms on a wire with no issues. Once you do that, repeat for the following:
ECU Ground to Battery Negative terminal
ECU power relay socket pin 30 to Battery Positive terminal
Fuel injector signal wires to each injector
Ignition coil signal wires to each coil.
After everything checks out, I'd suggest temporarily bypassing the ECU relay with a jumper wire (pin 30 to pin 87 on the socket). This will force the ECU to be ON untill you remove the relay bypass jumper. If your harness is anything like the Platinum Sport 1000/2000 Flying Lead harness, you'll also have relays for ignition power, Injector power and Fuel pump power. Just for the sake of argument, bypassing all but the fuel pump relay and adding them back in one at a time would be the way I would approach it.
Warning: Wordy, but quick & easy diagnosis procedure ahead
Injector grounds are the injector signal wires from the ECU, one wire per injector. I'd wager that the ECU has a NPN transistor on each injector and ignition output that pulses on/off as the injector or coil is asked by the ECU to fire. When the ECU needs to fire either one, it supplies a tiny current to the transistor, which connects it to the ECU's Ground wire in a fashion similar to a relay. This may sound elementary, but if the ECU ground is not solid and clean, nothing that the ECU controls will have a good, solid ground either.
You do not need the injectors or ignition coils connected to obtain a RPM signal in Halwin or ECU Manager. This comes from the Crank Angle Sensor. Try disconnecting both the coils & injectors and cranking your engine with a laptop connected. You'll see the cranking RPM in Halwin/ECU Manager. This is how I determined that starters from Autozone were only cranking at 70 RPM compared to 170 RPM on my OE Mazda one.
The simplest manner to diagnose this is to test for continuity in all of your wiring. First up is power and ground between the ECU and their respective targets. Then do the Ignition-switched wire. Resistance will be approximately 0.06 ohms on a wire with no issues. Once you do that, repeat for the following:
ECU Ground to Battery Negative terminal
ECU power relay socket pin 30 to Battery Positive terminal
Fuel injector signal wires to each injector
Ignition coil signal wires to each coil.
After everything checks out, I'd suggest temporarily bypassing the ECU relay with a jumper wire (pin 30 to pin 87 on the socket). This will force the ECU to be ON untill you remove the relay bypass jumper. If your harness is anything like the Platinum Sport 1000/2000 Flying Lead harness, you'll also have relays for ignition power, Injector power and Fuel pump power. Just for the sake of argument, bypassing all but the fuel pump relay and adding them back in one at a time would be the way I would approach it.
09-28-12, 09:36 PM
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Ok so i finally got online with the heltech so i downloaded some maps on this form but i cant seem to find one close enough.. now my motor is flooding real bad.. im running an s5 streetport with 1020 primaries and 1600 secondaries t70 turbo ls1 coils with an e6x any help would be greatly appreciated
11-23-12, 05:36 PM
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Ok so i had my car running just fine.. well i let it sit for about 2 weeks or so due to getting a driveshaft made. well now that its time to take her for a drive its acting weird .. it runs when the fuel pump is not connected but as soon as i hook the fuel pump wire it shuts off..when the pump is off it starts right up and no im not revving it up.. any thoughts?
11-23-12, 08:04 PM
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Ok so I don't think its me.. So I just kept exiting out of the software and re loading it and kept reloading the same map and it work??? So I got it to run again well I shut the car off let it sit for a min and it did the same thing .. You think it could be the unit it self?? All I know is I'm over it
11-24-12, 06:59 AM
#16
It's possible. Also possible you have a conflict between the software and firmware. Bouncing back and forth between the DOS version and Halwin can cause issues. The E6X was simply a bundle of problems. I tried to avoid them when they were still in the catalog. Now I pretty much refuse to work with them.
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