Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

Please, I'm new to the Haltech so if you can........ keep the big haltech terminology to a minimum

(8) 1680 cc low imp injectors running E85 w/ methanol injection.

The above is my combo.

Keep in mind, this is a streetcar so I'd like it to idle decent

I have a few questions now,

Will I need resistors like with the Power FC ?

Can I simply splice 2 injector clips into the existing haltech injector wiring ?

Will I simply change the CC values in the computer and that's it ?

Forgive my newbness, I've only played with the PFC unit.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

I believe you can run them (the additional injectors) off the PWM's

You could simply pigtal off the other connectors but I dunno if thats too much resistance for the unit...........

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

I'm sorry, what is PWM's ?

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

They're used for running stuff like an E-fan, waste gate, but I read a thread in here before about someone using them for additional injectors.

You can find the PWM wires here under your E6K wiring diagram (pdf):

http://www.haltech.com/downloads.htm

I'll search for taht other thread right now

EDIT:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...onal+injectors

Nevermind, doesn't look like the PWM will work, thats my memory for ya

Looks to be you simply wire them off the existing wiring. Keep in mind you want 1 and 2 wires to be for the primarys and 3-4 for the secondaries. Just pigtail off those to the injectors. The + (the big red wire with green stripe) will just get 4 extra tail's going to the other 4 injectors.

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

Awesome, that doesn't sound very hard.

Now, will I need resistors at all ?

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

I don't think so. May not hurt to wait and see what people who know what they're doing say though

But no, just setup the fuel setup menu to reflect the impednace of injector you run (each channel can run a different impedance)

Oh and on the "changing CC" question, you'll just have to do a bit of playing around since you're now basically running a map setup for 3360cc primaries and 3360cc secondaries, ya dig Thats some mucho fuel-o

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

Can anyone else help with this ?

Cris, where you at ?

crispeed

Here.
But you have to wait. Taco bell is calling!
Will be back shortly.

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

It's been 10 hours ................ you still eaiting or did you get sick ?

13B-RX3

iTrader: (2)

What the hell, I'll give it a try. A while back i figured out a way to do this and they guy at haltech said it would work.

First, hook up your 2 primary injectors in the center iron (if your running them) #1 injector to #1 rotor, same for #2. Then wire the remaining injectors, hooking up only the trigger/ground side. Haltech says you can fire two 1680cc Bosch injectors with one driver so you can split the trigger wires into pairs. Then this is where you get creative. Run the B+ to the injectors trough a NO relay so what happens is even though the injectors are being triggered they do not open because they have no power to the positive side. It may be best to go trough two relays and have one relay power up 4 injectors and another for the remaining 4 for ease of tuning (i don't know). Then configure one (or two) of your PWM outputs to energize the relay(s) as you get to a predetermined load point. So in theory you could have 2-850s at idle and to 0 PSI, 2-850s and 4-1680s from 0 PSI to 15 PSI, and then have 2-850 and 8-1680s from 15 PSI to 30 PSI. I think it would kinda be up to the tuner as to how you configure the system but i couldn't see tuning the transition from 2-850s to 2-850s and 8-1680s being very easy. Kinda think of it as a 3 stage fuel injection instead of just the primarys and secondaries. I hope that makes sense.

I have never actually done this but it is sound in theory, try at your own risk.


Oh and P.S. i forgot your running a E6K (cheap ***) i don't know if the drivers will handle the same current as the E11 or if you even have enough channels.

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

Thanks, that sounds interesting ! I wasn't planning on running 850's, just the (8) 1680's for now. I was hoping to get it tuned like that without any special rigging or staging

Well, the E6K came with the car so I didn't pick it

So, you don't think the E6K has the juice to run my injectors ?

13B-RX3

iTrader: (2)

Well you could either do 4 and 4, or pairs of two. I just think it would be a nightmare to get 4-1680s to idle well. IIRC the E6K driver will run it but i am not certain. Chris or Claudio could tell you for sure.

13B-RX3

iTrader: (2)

SEARCH NOOB!!!!!! Always wanted to do that.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...aged+injection

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

Alright, this is what Claudio RX-7 wrote:


So, this is all I need to do ?

This is 4 stages correct ? Does this sound like it would be tuneable somewhat easy ?

Setting this up in 4 stages means that I'll be able to run just two injectors during idle right ? Then, gradually light off all the injectors as boost increases ?

Noob here

13B-RX3

iTrader: (2)

No, that is just plane old staged injection. That way would fire them 4 at a time all primarys and then all primarys and secondarys after the staging bar. As for the tuning, your asking the wrong person.

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

Cris needs to put the burritos down and help a brother out

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

If you do it the way Claudio has written it would seem you'd be running 4 injectors below the staging bar (two each off the #1 and #2 channel). Electrically speaking that would work but how you gonna idle that thing? Would seem Claudio's method combined with the relay that 13B-RX3 is talking about would allow you to run just two injectors below the staging bar then have them come in progressively as the load rises. Say 2 injectors up to 0 psi, then 2 more at 15, then 2 more at 20 or something like that. Would require two PWM channels and a pair of relays just like 13B-RX3 suggested. Wouldn't be hard to wire.

What kinda fuel pump(s) you gonna run?

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

When it comes to crazy wiring and relays, I'd rather dig a ditch. I hate wiring and relays !

When I get to wiring, I'm going to need all the help I can get. Like, you guys will need to dummy-fi it for me

Fuel pumps, Well I have one A1000 pump on it now and I've personally had great luck with them. So, I was thinking about buying another one and just running two. I'm not sure if that will be enough, though ?

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

http://www.ludwigmotorsports.com/schematic.JPG

http://www.ludwigmotorsports.com/4_stage_screen.JPG


The first link is a schematic I just drew up to show you how to wire it the way 13B-RX3 is describing it. My only concern would be that the relays would add delay and inconsistency to the system. But if other people are using it successfully then it probably works. You'd use 2 PWM outputs set to Staging Signal to activate two of the stages. The 3rd stage would be done through the Staging setup on the Fuel screen. Seems like this would work to me but I'm anxious to see what Cris has to say about it myself.

The second link is a screenshot of what the fuel map might look like running a 4 stage system.

Claudio RX-7

iTrader: (1)

Man, that would really be a funky looking map! Id love to see the end result. But thats a neat idea Ludwig.

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

I just put into print what you guys were already discussing.

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

That's awesome. Thanks for taking the time to make that

I searched all over but can't find an answer, what's a "No Relay" ?

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Normally Open relay (switch is normall off). You can find them at Autozone or on the web. The one's Autozone carry look just like the Haltech power and fuel pump relays. They'll have 5 pins on the them. One is power to the relay, one is ground to the relay. Those two are what switched the relay on and off. In this situation you'll run the power side through a fuse to a 12v source and the ground side will go to the PWM output of the Haltech. The Haltech will then turn the relay on and off by switching the ground when you tell it to in the PWM setup screen. The other three poles are power in and out for the injectors (or fan or what ever...you can wire up an electric fan, AI pump, whatever in this same manner). One pin will be power in and the 5 pole relays have two poles for power out. You'll only use one of those two. The relays at Autozone come with a schematic on the package that shows you which pole is which.

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

Alright, I know what you mean now. I have two normally off relays here at the house. I picked a few up from AZ when I hooked up my 2-Step. I scratched my head for 12 trying to figure out why my 2 Step was doing the absolute opposite of what I wanted. Well, I figured out that I had normally off relays instead of normally on relays

Thanks again for all the help, I'd like to now hear about the "delay and inconsistency" from someone who's done this before.

Cris must be tearing up the taco bell still.

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Not saying it'll be a problem for sure, but I'm like you I'd like to see who has done it. Did 13B-RX3 say he's done it this way...have to re-read the thread.... Cris should have the ultimate configuration.




Or it's tearing him up! That **** kills me.