I figured I would post this here first since I have the E6K installed in my car with a full non-sequential conversion done, relocated battery, and a kill switch installed.

I had just driven the car this morning with no problems. The power was completely off via the kill switch and after turning the kill switch on, I heard a loud pop like a light bulb blowing followed by a bit of burning electrical smell (I could not locate the exact source). I feared that I blew a fuse/sensor/relay and figured the car wouldn't start.

I decided to try starting the car in any case, and upon doing so the revs immediately jumped to 4K. I even blipped the throttle a couple of times with no luck. The revs just won't come down. I didn't try idling too long because I feared damaging something else in the process.

Does anyone have any idea what could have blown and caused this high idle problem? Remember that whatever blew did so with just the batter power attached, the key was not in the ignition at the time.

 

I would disect the wiring harness and everything connected to the electrical system, ignition system and the fuel system. Try to find what popped or what burned. Then, disconnect the hatlech and pop open the lid and look inside, see if anything is burnt in there or smells, Also, ive seen MSD boxes spark when powered on in a few race cars, and since there imght be some fuel in the cylinders they sometimes pop.

The fact that the idle shot up to 4k, i would check for air leaks in the intake manifold/trackt, and the Idle valve if you have one hooked up, if not, stick with the intake.

 

Intake leak after the TB is my bet...

-Ted

 

agreed

 

Unfortunately this occured at my underground parking at the office, so a full diagnosis is rather difficult without getting the car home first. It would be nice to know I can somehow drive it the 10km (mostly highway) home and then deal with the problem there.

I don't have a MSD, but I am running really rich so I guess there is still the possibility that a spark occured causing some unburnt fuel to ignite. The only thing is that the smell was closer to an electrical short than fuel.

I took a quick look around with my flashlight this morning and couldn't see nor smell anything burnt with the relays and fuses. The location of the pop was difficult to localize because I was in the car at the time, but it did sound like it originated from somewhere around the fuel pump. Is it possible for the fuel pump to short out in such a way that it forces too much fuel into the engine? I don't think so.

I would have assumed an intake leak as well, but why would attaching the battery power cause something like that to occur?

I suspect something with the fuel delivery such as the fuel pump, injectors, or worse case scenerio is that the Haltech fried I'm going to see if I can attach to the Haltech with my laptop and reload the base map.

Thanks for your help.

 

You're assuming the "pop" is directly associated with the 4k idle.
It might be a coincidence that this happened, and they are not directly connected to each other.
If you popped the Haltech ECU, the engine will not run, period.


-Ted

 

At this point driving your car after hearing a loud "POP" followed by an electrical smell and a 4k idle would be a mistake without first finding the source of the "POP" and/or electrical smell. I would rather tow then car the risk further damage

As for the car idling at 4k, Ted is right; it would have to be an air leak. I know with my E6X sometimes when I turn the ignition on it will back fire (could have been the “POP” you heard) this could have blown out an intake gasket or blew off a vacuum line.

Now for the electrical smell

1st - I would first re-check all the new battery cables and wires making sure that non of them are touching any sharp metal edges without some sort of grommet/conduit protecting them

2nd – Check all the Fuses, both the main fuses and secondary fuses

3rd – Check each circuit one by one starting with any aftermarket installed products (ie car alarms, radios/ amps, Haltech, fuel pump rewire…etc) Then check other circuits like headlights turn signals heater etc.

Just my .02 worth

 

oh.. one more thing, double check that the throttle cable is not hanging up on something. Sounds stupid but you never know

 

Finally got the car home this past Saturday and checked for an intake leak. Sure enough there appears to be a leak towards the rear of the lower intake manifold. Possibly around one of the block off plates. <Sigh> I'm not looking forward to ripping the turbos off yet again. Well at least it's not going to be an expensive repair like if the ECU died as I had originally feared.

 

see me and ole ted are good for somethin