I hope this thing is good, cause I picked one up with my Haltech. Then again im sure anything is an improvement over the Autometer.

Is the Halmeter related to Haltech? It was significantly cheaper, but I didnt like the way it looked. I stumbled across it after ordering my Haltuner anyway.

Any info is appriciated.

 

The AF30?&nbsp If you, you've just bought yourself a glorified voltage display unit.&nbsp These things are all based on a (daisy chained) LM3914 voltage level output IC.&nbsp The LM3914 IC is a 10 channel output unit, so all your 10-LED displays all run one of these chips.&nbsp The Autometer runs 20 LED's so it runs two of them.&nbsp The AF30 runs 30 LED's so it runs 3 of them.&nbsp See the pattern? The AF30 is a fancy box with about $20 worth of electronics in it.&nbsp It never ceases to amaze me how much these manufacturers charge for these things...



-Ted

 

I have the Haltuner, not the Halmeter.

The Halmeter looked especially crappy, I was just wondering if it was related to the Haltech company.

 

So what's a Haltuner?


-Ted

 

http://www.haltech.com.au/Products/A.../haltuner.html
This?
It's still the same thing - new box, same internals.



-Ted

 

Halmeter



Halmeter (about twice as much)



Id prefer to use something that will work, but not compromise my engine when tuning time comes.

 

Easy way to check - pop the thing apart and check the IC's.


-Ted

 

Then why is it more than the other one? And how come I cant find the Halmeter on Haltechs site? Do you really think I need a analog type A/F meter if I have an EGT gauge?

 

You're going to get lots of different answers.&nbsp Personally, I find a 10-LED gauge "good enough".&nbsp A Cyberdyne/Nordskog/Intelletronix/Summit Racing unit is under $30.&nbsp This is all I need.&nbsp I do the bulk of the engine monitoring with an EGT.&nbsp The AFR gauge is there to tell me if it's TOO rich or TOO lean.&nbsp I never do any fine tuning with it - that's asking for trouble.&nbsp If you want absolute accuracy of AFR, get a wide-band UEGO (couple thousand) or pay for rental fees for them (a bit more reasonable).

Everything else is a waste of money on my book, including all the "cheap" DIY wide-band "kits" popping up using the NTK 0-5V O2 sensor.



-Ted

-Ted

 

So basically this one is fine normal day to day monitoring, and minor tuning. If I learn how to fine tune a Haltech, then I would probably rent a wide band.

What do you think about SPA gauges?
http://www.spatechnique.com/index3.html

I was going to use their Boost/EGT. Evil Aviator seems to recommend them.

I know a lot of people will see this differently, but I respect your opinion, and follow your advice. Its well know to the 2nd gen community you have some knowledge.

 

Can you explain a little on this? Why do you say it's a waste of money?

 

If you don't know the answer, you need to do more research.

A REAL UEGO costs around $1,000US.
A REAL wide-band UEGO requires a calibrated UEGO sensor and a complementary output "box" that is matched to the UEGO output characteristics.&nbsp This "system" is priced closer to $2,000US.&nbsp One of the big "circuits" in this system is the output box knows what temperature the UEGO is at any one time - this goes a lot into it's calibration accuracy.

Many of these "cheap" wide-band systems use an NTK "lean-burn" O2 sensor (i.e. Honda Civic VX VTEC-e U.S. model) that's basically an extrapolation of the narrow-band O2, zirconium based sensors used in most every other engine.&nbsp This sensor still has a temperature dependent output (duh, all of them do) that make it very difficult to calibrate with any kinda of accuracy.&nbsp These NTK sensors are priced around $300US each; this makes for a very attractively priced system.


-Ted