3rdGen7

Firstly, I'd like to ask the forum admin guys to please allow this one in the single turbo section (just for a day or two at least) because most of the guys who'd be able to diagnose this are in here most of the time. The topic of A/F etc doesn't really come up much when you're running stock twins and a Pettit ECU as you'd tend to find in the other sections of the forum. The guys who do most of the hardcore tuning tend to be in here and I'm realllllly worried. I need some opinions from the resident Guru's ..that's you guys.. so Crisspeed, PowerAx'l, ReTed and the rest ..please please post an opinion.

Before reading the rest of this, I'd just like to ask you to please don't flame me for not doing a Dyno run as I am a poor boy from a 3rd world country with no Dyno or WBO2's .. other than T-Rex jaws and the odd teeth found in the forest that's as much as you have here for tuning. ( see location to the left)

I was hoping that someone may be able to tell me if something is wrong or am I just paranoid.

Here's the senerio, new but broken in street port motor installed ( 1600 miles) , K&N drop in filter, 3.75" ID Mid Pipe and Cat back ( OEM DP), Knights Sports ECU tuned for intake and exhaust, turbos in non-seq mode, running 7 psi boost - no pills. My car is a JDM R1.

I have a Haltech Haltuner A/F monitor installed and I've been paying close attention to what's going on ..with the stock O2 ( even though it's crap ..better than nothing at all).

Please see link to know what this unit looks like if you don't already know it.. it may help you understand what the heck I'm talking about.

http://www.haltech.com/Products/Acc...r/haltuner.html

At WOT with 7 psi I am rich the A/F monitor is well out of the lean zone but not in the rich zone, there a large area to represent the spectrum from rich to lean and I'm in the lower side of mid-way. I suspect this was the intent of Knights Sports with their ECU to get a little more power out of not pegging rich all the way through.

In 3rd gear at 80 km/hr or so, when you punch it the A/F drops slighty to the lower side of the middle zone again without lighting up the red lean LEDs then it rises to the middle again.

5th gear on the free-way with light throttle, the A/F is same as above. When you come off the gas and coast it ...seems to go into what I think you guys call close loop mode 'cause the LED bounces all over the place until you give it some gas again..make sense...right.

My questions stems from this, sometimes when run through the gears taking it up to about 7000 RPM and shift 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd etc I get a loud POP and when I look in the mirror there is a puff of smoke...with a somewhat blue'ish tinge to it. At idle it's rich....a bit too righ. Sometime it's black and smokey and other times there is no smoke at all ?? .. Compression is a solid 125 psi both front and rear rotors and the car idles just fine.

Also, in the morning when I start it for the first time and it's cold, it lets off the gunshots with flames .. why ? as soon as it warms up a bit it's fine. If you try to accelerate too quickly without warmning it up a bit ( usually takes a little rev or two to get her going), it would run really rough and cough and spit when you give it gas... again, once it's warm you don't see any of that anymore.

Any ideas as to why I get these POPs and puffs of bluish smoke from time to time and what the reason for the morning cough and hacking with flames ??

I actually wrote this post on my PC a few days ago and since then I decided not to make any more WOT runs until I get a WBO2.

TIA,

3rdGen7

13BAce

If you're not getting enough fuel when the motor is cold you can get problems like that. How's your fuel pressure. Whenever my fuel pressure is too low (I'm still using a crappy stock regulator that likes to act up) I get similar problems.

The flames and backfires may be due to a bad ignition signal.

Poweraxel

well i wouldnt rely on that A/F gauge and your stock 02 for any really useful info..mass produced 02 sensors dont react fast enough, dont read correctly over time, etc... while your A/F gauge is showing in the middle between lean/rich your car could be still running rich...theyre not accurate...if your car was really running that close to lean you probably would of blown your motor by now...Obviously a wideband is more useful and i see your getting one soon.. if you feel that the ECU might not be delivering enough fuel then you got 2 choices until you get your wideband to confirm..1. dont drive the car 2. raise your fuel pressure a bit..
have you changed your plugs and wires? check the resistence of the coils while your at it..all should be under 1 ohm...also you could check your to make sure your base timing is correct..connect a timing light to trailing 1 and see if the timing wheel "notch" lines up with the pointer on the front cover..that represents 20 ATDC

well its pretty hard to really diagnose your car based upon what you said and not having the car local..but remember that all rotaries to a certain extent backfire at times

good luck and hopefully i lead you on to some ideas!

3rdGen7

Thanks guys for your comments.

Poweraxel, I'll check and post if I find anything out of place.

3rdGen7

RETed

You're talking about the AF30, right?
When we use this thing for tuning, we would like to see it light up the "RICH" side of the gauge - not the middle.&nbsp It sounds like the car is running slightly lean (I dunno why), and the exhaust pops would confirm it - overly hot EGT's will ignite in the exhaust causing "gunfire" staccato pops out the exhaust.



-Ted