Hello everyone,

Firstly, I'd like to say sorry for the misleading subject line.. don't you hate when folks do that ..but I'm realllllly worried here and I need some opinions from the resident Guru's ..that's you guys.. so Crisspeed, PowerAx'l, ReTed and the rest ..please please post an opinion.

Before reading the rest of this, I'd just like to ask you to please don't flame me for not doing a Dyno run as I am a poor boy from a 3rd world country with no Dyno or WBO2's .. other than T-Rex jaws and the odd teeth found in the forest that's as much as you have here for tuning. ( see location to the left)

I was hoping that someone may be able to tell me if something is wrong or am I just paranoid.

Here's the senerio, new but broken in street port motor installed ( 1600 miles) , K&N drop in filter, 3.75" ID Mid Pipe and Cat back ( OEM DP), Knights Sports ECU tuned for intake and exhaust, turbos in non-seq mode, running 7 psi boost - no pills. My car is a JDM R1.

I have a Haltech Haltuner A/F monitor installed and I've been paying close attention to what's going on ..with the stock O2 ( even though it's crap ..better than nothing at all).

Please see link to know what this unit looks like if you don't already know it.. it may help you understand what the heck I'm talking about.

http://www.haltech.com/Products/Acce.../haltuner.html

At WOT with 7 psi I am rich the A/F monitor is well out of the lean zone but not in the rich zone, there a large area to represent the spectrum from rich to lean and I'm in the lower side of mid-way. I suspect this was the intent of Knights Sports with their ECU to get a little more power out of not pegging rich all the way through.

In 3rd gear at 80 km/hr or so, when you punch it the A/F drops slighty to the lower side of the middle zone again without lighting up the red lean LEDs then it rises to the middle again.

5th gear on the free-way with light throttle, the A/F is same as above. When you come off the gas and coast it ...seems to go into what I think you guys call close loop mode 'cause the LED bounces all over the place until you give it some gas again..make sense...right.

My questions stems from this, sometimes when run through the gears taking it up to about 7000 RPM and shift 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd etc I get a loud POP and when I look in the mirror there is a puff of smoke...with a somewhat blue'ish tinge to it. At idle it's rich....a bit too righ. Sometime it's black and smokey and other times there is no smoke at all ?? .. Compression is a solid 125 psi both front and rear rotors and the car idles just fine.

Also, in the morning when I start it for the first time and it's cold, it lets off the gunshots with flames .. why ? as soon as it warms up a bit it's fine. If you try to accelerate too quickly without warmning it up a bit ( usually takes a little rev or two to get her going), it would run really rough and cough and spit when you give it gas... again, once it's warm you don't see any of that anymore.

Any ideas as to why I get these POPs and puffs of bluish smoke from time to time and what the reason for the morning cough and hacking with flames ??

I actually wrote this post on my PC a few days ago and since then I decided not to make any more WOT runs until I get a WBO2.

TIA,

Richard

 

So, who ran a 10.9

 

Dude..that was a joke..

 

humpmmmm

...come on late night Guru's where are ya ??

 

Take this, copy it and start a post in the single turbo section. None of those guys read in here. You'll have better luck there.

 

 

Damn I hate getting duped by snappy subject lines...

Cant we leave the 3 headed Elvis alien headlines for The tabloids?

 

Argh, tricked again! Oh te humanity. If I had a life, I'd finish reading your post .

 

That's the last time I read a thread that has anything to do with running 10's on stock turbos

 

...the ECU limiting boost and is injecting more fuel into the engine to warm it up, thus making your car run like crap before it fully warms up. It should run like crap before 50 degrees celsius. After 50, it should run a little better. Anything after 80 degrees, and your car will run fine.

 

Why don't we get the moderators to delete posts with misleading subject lines?

 

Good idea to wait for a WB. An AFR monitor with stock O2 sensor does not provide any truly useful information...it may indicate rich, but you could still be lean. Just don't really on it. There is just no way around it, you need a WB O2.

7 psi? What boost is your engine tuned for? Are you just being safe?

Most FDs have some popping or backfiring. Your situation might be a little bit more severe due to the programming in the Knightsports unit, but I don't know much about them.