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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 01:46 AM
  #26  
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I have taken car to drift training and testing event on friday, had great time there and here are some overviews.

I drove car to and from event (150km each way) and made another 200km on the track.

First tests week ago in warmer (20C) day showed EWP should run at constant full speed, no need to regulate it. However, friday morning when i took of towards track, temperature was around 5C and whole trip to the track (no boosting, but high speed) my temperatures were too low in 60-70C range and i definately should have taken controller with me.

Return trip was in afternoon, warmer (around 15C) and coolant temps without controller have not dropped under 75C and aweraged at 83C. My efan starts at 90C, shuts off at 85C and highest temps on the way back i have seen were 91C.

On the track data for 30min run

Coolant lowest 84C, highest 96C, awerage 86C.
Oil temps in 80C-100C range
Intake air temps highest 37C, awerage 34C

I was boosting only to wastegate spring which is 8 psi, but wastegate is leaking (exhaust manifold too and does not hold the pressure in higher rpm's.....

I probably might get coolant temps more stable with controller and controlling efan with Haltech PWM instead of On/Off switch, but its not that bad already

Overall good feeling from first drifts with the car, still a lot of things to tweak and fix, but EWP works and for summer / racing i wont need the controller, but for trips to track i should connect it.

Hotter days and smaller track will tell us more...
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Old Dec 9, 2011 | 07:56 PM
  #27  
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Where is everyone mounting all the coolant sensors in these setups? I've got the older controller and the temperature isn't as steady as I'd like it to be. Running the pump full speed the car never gets up to optimal running temperature.
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Old Dec 15, 2011 | 12:03 AM
  #28  
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if you look at my build (click on my avatar) it will show you where mine is mounted, directly from the block outlet source (custom bracket for hard lines for my Rad setup
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Old Dec 15, 2011 | 07:36 PM
  #29  
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From: phoenix
Originally Posted by C. Ludwig
A SSR would work with a PWM output. Voltage is constant. Pump speed is controlled by varying the duty cycle of voltage applied to the pump. Like Ryan, I've used the SSR with a PWM to control methanol pumps with good results.
What is the difference between SSR and regular relay? How is that relay connected? Here is how I connected it but I have not tried yet. (Autozone relay-I did not have better at that time) I use one Haltech Output connected to the ground terminal on the relay which suppose to interconnect 3bar map sensor signal output and Water injection controller (input). That way I can tell when controller (@10psi) can read the MAP and properly adjust the speed of the pump. SO it still uses MAP sensor to control the speed of the pump, but I tell it when with the Haltech. Not sure if its going to work. From the sound of it you do not even need pump controller to adjust the speed of the pump, true? I have Alky Control kit.
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 07:02 PM
  #30  
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well i purchased an E&J electronic water pump, and plan to run it using my PS1000. the plan is to use the PWM fan. i am using Haltech's solid state relay.
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 01:02 AM
  #31  
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From: Floyds Knobs. IN
Originally Posted by hiboost
What is the difference between SSR and regular relay? How is that relay connected? Here is how I connected it but I have not tried yet. (Autozone relay-I did not have better at that time) I use one Haltech Output connected to the ground terminal on the relay which suppose to interconnect 3bar map sensor signal output and Water injection controller (input). That way I can tell when controller (@10psi) can read the MAP and properly adjust the speed of the pump. SO it still uses MAP sensor to control the speed of the pump, but I tell it when with the Haltech. Not sure if its going to work. From the sound of it you do not even need pump controller to adjust the speed of the pump, true? I have Alky Control kit.
A regular relay is mechanical. The solid state is, well, solid state. No moving parts. A mechanical relay will not switch as quickly as a solid state and the coil of the mechanical relay will quickly over heat and fail if you try to use it with a PWM circuit.
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 01:03 AM
  #32  
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From: Floyds Knobs. IN
Originally Posted by 13bgt35r
well i purchased an E&J electronic water pump, and plan to run it using my PS1000. the plan is to use the PWM fan. i am using Haltech's solid state relay.

Looking forward to your results. I'll probably be trying the same thing with my own car, but I'm a long way from getting to that point.
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Old Jan 12, 2012 | 05:54 PM
  #33  
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I Guess the only question i have with this is should i pulse the pump to control flow or vary the voltage?

i'm not sure if the pump can handle continuous on and off without destroying the motor.
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Old Jan 15, 2012 | 08:24 PM
  #34  
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juts vary it, that what the stock controller does.
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 08:33 PM
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Actually Davies craig controllers pulse their pumps until they are 5 degrees from the target temperature, then they begin to vary the voltage.

The question is though, can the E&J pump handle pulsation, and if not, how can you get the Haltech to vary voltage via a PWM output?
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 05:12 PM
  #36  
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ok, so i've installed my E&J water pump with the solid state relay, and using the PWM fan output, but i dont think it's doing the job.

Frequency = 100hz
0% = 40C
100% = 100%

the car idles at a temp of 85-86C, and the more i load it the hotter it gets...........

is 100hz the correct frequency?
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Old Mar 19, 2012 | 05:36 PM
  #37  
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no one ever ram an EWP via a Haltech? or anyone used a E&J EWP before?
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 01:55 AM
  #38  
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I wanted closed loop control of EWP from haltech and was told Haltech PS2000 does not have ability to do it, so i asked my friend to build me controller which i run on street, but on racetrack i have pump at 100% speed all the time, no controller needed...
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 01:01 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by hIGGI
I wanted closed loop control of EWP from haltech and was told Haltech PS2000 does not have ability to do it, so i asked my friend to build me controller which i run on street, but on racetrack i have pump at 100% speed all the time, no controller needed...
it cant be done closed loop, but i am running mine via the PWM Fan output, i have it set to 100% at about 90C. just the frequency im not too sure about.
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 02:04 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by 13bgt35r
it cant be done closed loop, but i am running mine via the PWM Fan output, i have it set to 100% at about 90C. just the frequency im not too sure about.
If you run on street and your radiator is good for usage on track, no thermostat and you will have 100% duty on 90C, you will most likely not be able to maintain steady operating temp.

I wanted closed loop and have pump acting like thermostat....and that requires different duty cycle at 90C on cold day, different on hot day, different when cruising on highway, different when sitting in traffic......
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Old May 9, 2012 | 06:01 AM
  #41  
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From: phoenix
Originally Posted by hIGGI
If you run on street and your radiator is good for usage on track, no thermostat and you will have 100% duty on 90C, you will most likely not be able to maintain steady operating temp.

I wanted closed loop and have pump acting like thermostat....and that requires different duty cycle at 90C on cold day, different on hot day, different when cruising on highway, different when sitting in traffic......
What frequency and duty% at what temp have you setup it up? Just curious? I think frequency should be setup low for this kind of application.
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Old May 9, 2012 | 06:46 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by hiboost
What frequency and duty% at what temp have you setup it up? Just curious? I think frequency should be setup low for this kind of application.
Since haltech was not able to controll it closed loop, my friend built me custom independent controller. Sorry, i have no data about what frequency/duty
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Old Sep 6, 2012 | 01:58 AM
  #43  
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looks good mate
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