Haltech Haltech and Electric water pump
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4,988
Likes: 18
From: Czech Republic [www.rx7cz.net]
I have taken car to drift training and testing event on friday, had great time there and here are some overviews.
I drove car to and from event (150km each way) and made another 200km on the track.
First tests week ago in warmer (20C) day showed EWP should run at constant full speed, no need to regulate it. However, friday morning when i took of towards track, temperature was around 5C and whole trip to the track (no boosting, but high speed) my temperatures were too low in 60-70C range and i definately should have taken controller with me.
Return trip was in afternoon, warmer (around 15C) and coolant temps without controller have not dropped under 75C and aweraged at 83C. My efan starts at 90C, shuts off at 85C and highest temps on the way back i have seen were 91C.
On the track data for 30min run
Coolant lowest 84C, highest 96C, awerage 86C.
Oil temps in 80C-100C range
Intake air temps highest 37C, awerage 34C
I was boosting only to wastegate spring which is 8 psi, but wastegate is leaking (exhaust manifold too
and does not hold the pressure in higher rpm's.....
I probably might get coolant temps more stable with controller and controlling efan with Haltech PWM instead of On/Off switch, but its not that bad already
Overall good feeling from first drifts with the car, still a lot of things to tweak and fix, but EWP works and for summer / racing i wont need the controller, but for trips to track i should connect it.
Hotter days and smaller track will tell us more...
I drove car to and from event (150km each way) and made another 200km on the track.
First tests week ago in warmer (20C) day showed EWP should run at constant full speed, no need to regulate it. However, friday morning when i took of towards track, temperature was around 5C and whole trip to the track (no boosting, but high speed) my temperatures were too low in 60-70C range and i definately should have taken controller with me.
Return trip was in afternoon, warmer (around 15C) and coolant temps without controller have not dropped under 75C and aweraged at 83C. My efan starts at 90C, shuts off at 85C and highest temps on the way back i have seen were 91C.
On the track data for 30min run
Coolant lowest 84C, highest 96C, awerage 86C.
Oil temps in 80C-100C range
Intake air temps highest 37C, awerage 34C
I was boosting only to wastegate spring which is 8 psi, but wastegate is leaking (exhaust manifold too
and does not hold the pressure in higher rpm's.....I probably might get coolant temps more stable with controller and controlling efan with Haltech PWM instead of On/Off switch, but its not that bad already
Overall good feeling from first drifts with the car, still a lot of things to tweak and fix, but EWP works and for summer / racing i wont need the controller, but for trips to track i should connect it.
Hotter days and smaller track will tell us more...
Where is everyone mounting all the coolant sensors in these setups? I've got the older controller and the temperature isn't as steady as I'd like it to be. Running the pump full speed the car never gets up to optimal running temperature.
What is the difference between SSR and regular relay? How is that relay connected? Here is how I connected it but I have not tried yet. (Autozone relay-I did not have better at that time) I use one Haltech Output connected to the ground terminal on the relay which suppose to interconnect 3bar map sensor signal output and Water injection controller (input). That way I can tell when controller (@10psi) can read the MAP and properly adjust the speed of the pump. SO it still uses MAP sensor to control the speed of the pump, but I tell it when with the Haltech. Not sure if its going to work. From the sound of it you do not even need pump controller to adjust the speed of the pump, true? I have Alky Control kit.
What is the difference between SSR and regular relay? How is that relay connected? Here is how I connected it but I have not tried yet. (Autozone relay-I did not have better at that time) I use one Haltech Output connected to the ground terminal on the relay which suppose to interconnect 3bar map sensor signal output and Water injection controller (input). That way I can tell when controller (@10psi) can read the MAP and properly adjust the speed of the pump. SO it still uses MAP sensor to control the speed of the pump, but I tell it when with the Haltech. Not sure if its going to work. From the sound of it you do not even need pump controller to adjust the speed of the pump, true? I have Alky Control kit.
Looking forward to your results. I'll probably be trying the same thing with my own car, but I'm a long way from getting to that point.
I Guess the only question i have with this is should i pulse the pump to control flow or vary the voltage?
i'm not sure if the pump can handle continuous on and off without destroying the motor.
i'm not sure if the pump can handle continuous on and off without destroying the motor.
Actually Davies craig controllers pulse their pumps until they are 5 degrees from the target temperature, then they begin to vary the voltage.
The question is though, can the E&J pump handle pulsation, and if not, how can you get the Haltech to vary voltage via a PWM output?
The question is though, can the E&J pump handle pulsation, and if not, how can you get the Haltech to vary voltage via a PWM output?
ok, so i've installed my E&J water pump with the solid state relay, and using the PWM fan output, but i dont think it's doing the job.
Frequency = 100hz
0% = 40C
100% = 100%
the car idles at a temp of 85-86C, and the more i load it the hotter it gets...........
is 100hz the correct frequency?
Frequency = 100hz
0% = 40C
100% = 100%
the car idles at a temp of 85-86C, and the more i load it the hotter it gets...........
is 100hz the correct frequency?
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4,988
Likes: 18
From: Czech Republic [www.rx7cz.net]
I wanted closed loop control of EWP from haltech and was told Haltech PS2000 does not have ability to do it, so i asked my friend to build me controller which i run on street, but on racetrack i have pump at 100% speed all the time, no controller needed...
it cant be done closed loop, but i am running mine via the PWM Fan output, i have it set to 100% at about 90C. just the frequency im not too sure about.
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4,988
Likes: 18
From: Czech Republic [www.rx7cz.net]
I wanted closed loop and have pump acting like thermostat....and that requires different duty cycle at 90C on cold day, different on hot day, different when cruising on highway, different when sitting in traffic......
If you run on street and your radiator is good for usage on track, no thermostat and you will have 100% duty on 90C, you will most likely not be able to maintain steady operating temp.
I wanted closed loop and have pump acting like thermostat....and that requires different duty cycle at 90C on cold day, different on hot day, different when cruising on highway, different when sitting in traffic......
I wanted closed loop and have pump acting like thermostat....and that requires different duty cycle at 90C on cold day, different on hot day, different when cruising on highway, different when sitting in traffic......
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4,988
Likes: 18
From: Czech Republic [www.rx7cz.net]
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