Well found out that my 500R CDI will not properly output to the tacho so now I need to use the haltech PWM.

The manual states I should use the PWM1 as it has the pull ups availability. Problem is I using it for the BAC and have another one spare at the moment I could use.

Any ideas? Any proven setups/settings.

Thanks,
Ian

 

miss post. sorry.

 

As a rule always leave PWM/DPO 1 as your Tacho output wire, since as you mention, has the pullups built into it. Settings for your E8 to drive the stock tacho will be:

Pull Up 5V
Tacho Duty 50%
Pulses 2

That should do it. If the 5v pullup doesnt work, set it to 12V.

 

Like Claudio said you need to use PWM 1. You'll need to reconfigure you outputs. I always use 12V pullup with the RX-7s.

 

Thanks for clearing that up C. I was not 100%

 

Thanks guys. Wiring it up this weekend. (Or more or less moving a few PWM around. LOL )

Ian

 

also just did this for mine.

mine works on 12v, 50% and 4 pulse

FC3S dash

 

Hey Chris I still cant get a damm tach signal, I found the page your talking about here and mine was without pull-ups, But I changed it. And still don`t have it, I`ve changed 4 different trailing coil packs out and still cant get it to read, Hell I cant even get any trailing spark at all, I shimmed the igntion pick-ups to 50 thousands, The Factory FD says it to be between .039 to .075. I`ve changed the pick-ups themselves and stll no trailing spark. I have voltage at the Red/yellow wire, My continnuty is good between the tailing connectors to the Haltech ecu.
Its just like I have 4 dead Igniter packs, I did get the tach to work at one time when I first started working on this problem, It would only work up to 4500rpm and then go **** up, But as soon as I released the throttle it would come back, It was having ignition break up when try to push it above that when I was giving it gas And note this happened wether I was stting still or when I was driving it, Any chance the haltech ecu has tok a ****, I out of my mind, Am damm neat going LS1. I hate this kind of ****. I`ve worked 3 weeks off and on over this.

 

And yes for you others who are reading this, I have a 94`FD engine in my FC. E8 ecu. I just bebuilt the motor annd have started having tach problems, Other than the trailing coil wont fire at all. I thought of going to your ludwig site and buy a dual channel ignition module and 2 LS1 coil packs and doing away with this 23 year old igniter and coil pack stuff, I used to have more of the coill packs, But have sold like 40 of them over the years,I`ve parted a lot of 2nd gens.

 

Also what type of pick-up are I using the window in the option box says distrbutor, Shouldn`t it say multi-teeth, Or something like this.

 

Ok! I crossed the two signal wire from the haltech, The white/black is now connected to the pink. And the blue/white wire is connected to the white wire, The Violet/white wire is going to the Yellow/blue going to the dash.This wire is cut about 1 1/2 inches from the female side of the connector and heat shrink plugged off. The car is set at 4 pulses, 12v pull-up,50%.
The tach works with the laptop rpm to rpm. I just don`t like having problems like this, And I have full rpm`s without a break up at 4500rpm. So far So good.

 

I guess you figured it out.

The tach in the 2nd gen is driven by the trailing ignitor in the stock configuration. You do not need to drive the tach with an ECU output when the trailing coil is properly installed and working. I have seen a couple failed trailing coils recently, and they are all getting old, so even if it's all installed properly, you may have issues. If you're driving the tach with the trailing coil, then you can play with settings for the tach output all you want and it will do no good because you're not actually driving the tach with the ECU.

If you want to drive the tach with the ECU because you think the stock coils aren't working, or because you have installed aftermarket coils, then you need to use PWM/DPO 1 to drive the tach. This is the only output you can use, as it's the only one with the required positive pull-up to make the tach work. Connect this output to the tach signal wire (yellow/blue on both the FC and FD. The settings are 4 pulses, 30-50% duty, and 12V pull-up.

For the stock FC coil setup distributor mode is correct. This is not the "pickup" mode and has nothing to do with the trigger input, it is the spark output mode.

 

bump this one up

tried all settings,, tacho was working fine before ( with ltx and with dizzy direct fire )
the signal must be working as the tacho out is keeping my LPG safety solenoid happy
( needs to see ig pulse )
but tacho does not work beyond a flicker at low volts as i crank , and the buzzer as it starts
( indicating it thinks i have 16000 rpm at crank )
then sits on zero

tried inverting,, 25, 50 and 100 % duty,, pull up on, pull up off , 5v, 8v, 12v
none of these make the tacho work and none have bothered the LPG safety switch

methinks tacho might have died when first booted up e8 ,, needs it cause the PS ecu is now beeping likely crazy and defaulting to full assist

any suggestions ?

methinks take safety circuit off this circuit and instead swing the relays direct from the unused fuel pump relay
( though safety switch was always happy teed with tacho previously )

 

disregard- continuity issue