www.ricemobile.net

 

I pulled my harness apart and made a custom one. You can see some pics on my web site. First you have to decide piggy back or stand alone install.

 

carson do we still need idle air control valve?
i dont remember reading how to hook that up to the haltec, also will i loose cruse controll with haltec...**** i thought i was all ready to wire this piece up...godamnit

 

Wire up IACV as a PWM output of your choice. The setting will be for BAC. Be sure to disable the IAC from the digital outputs page. However target idle rpms are here. You will not loose cruise control etc w/ Haltech as long as you route all the signals to the cruise box ... these are the transmission switches for nuetral, reverse, etc that come in through the firewall and are routed through X5 and X14 connectors. You only need this info if you are deleting the stock ECU. If piggy backing the stock ECU you will be fine.

 

oh yeah ... I've played with many different duty cycle settings on the BAC control and it didn't seem to make much difference. I finally settled on 40 ms.

 

if it cant be tuned properly then either a) the wires are wrong somewhere or B(the more likely case) whoever is trying to tune it, doesn't know WTF they are doing

 

when i installed my E6K (using a flying loom) it started first pop, it was the first thing of that nature i had ever under taken, i had read thru the instruction a number of times and it made it VERY easy

 

plug and play - 5 min install

right.......................... only takes 5 mins to put in a coolant temps sensor and an intake air temp sensor, which need to be tapped unless they are the correct thread to start with

 

It probably takes 5 minutes to pull it out of the box!

 

tha factory sensors dont give the same mv readings as the ones that come with the haltech which is what the haltech is calibrated to run with

 

In the FD the airtemp and coolant sensors are pretty much identical to the Haltech ones. I have used the plug and play harness and it works just as well as my car.

An FC is a little different since the sensors are different. With an FD the sensors work fine and the stock MAP also works.

 

using the stock sensors: some sensors will be off due to the resistence..
1. air temp (differnt resistence)
2. coolant temp (different resistence)
3. Stock map sensor is only accurate to 15-16psi max..using a GM 3-bar is the best bet

lets not forget our stock harness gets deteriated and corroided after time

 

The airtemp and coolante sensors are the same in linearity (is that a word?), so as long as a map is compensate for the small (5-10F) difference there is not a problem with using the stock sensors.

Stock MAP is good up to 15psi (the one on my car topped out at 14.5psi), so if you want to run more boost you will need the 3 bar sensor, otherwise no.

Stock wiring does get really crispy after a few years. I know mine actually broke when trying to remove it last year. Although all other ECUs use the stock harnesses and work okay. With the Haltech you at least get a fault if the sensor is not working.

I used the stock wiring for at least a year without any problems.

Rev. Dr. Jay
http://ricemobile.net/

 

the whole stock wiring harness gets crispy-brittle and can break

shure if you know how to do any elec wiring you should be able to..have fun finding the wire though

 

The crispy wires are the ones that run under the solenoid rack right on top of the motor. If you dump the emissions and sequential systems you will abandon most of the wires.

Others seem to be worried about it quite a bit, but I have never had problems.