im having a issue with my PS1000 and the injector fuse and relay getting really hot. to the point it will burn your finger.

Ok first off I had this great idea and extended all the relay and fuse to the engine bay next to the battery. (was this ok) I haven't blown any fuses yet but I'm sure it will happen if I can get the car to run longer then 10 mins. I also checked the harness for any exposed wires and nothing. So is it normal for the fuse to get that hot, or do I have a short some place?

Im also runing a denso fuel pump with 720/1600 inj

 

Extending the wiring will increase the circuit resistance. What size wire did you use, the same/different? Did you move the ground?

 

I used the same wiring that was povided. I dont know the gauge, but the smaller gauge wire for power and the larger gauge for signal and sensors. power wire is 8-10 inch form the fuse panel and three grounds; by ecu, firewall, engine.

 

by moving the relay to outside it shorted the 12v source for the coil and injectors, but lengthen the the signal wires

 

??

Mate the fuse and relay is design to be as close to the unit as possible.

lengthening signal wires is fine, most of the time is mili amps so the resistance build up with be sweet FA. The power to the unit is always more critical.

Id also be checking your injector wiring.

 

Well I just rewired the haltech and made sure all the sensors were right and no exposed wires.

When the car starts it will run fine. and before I rewired the car the car would die when I hit 6lbs of boost, but had no issues rev up to 7500 under no boost.

 

You say you "... had a great idea..."
What was the purpose of moving it again?

 

I wired my old e6k harness that way and it made it easier to get to the fuses.

 

My ignition fuse gets hot to the point where it melts. it doesn't blow, just melts. i changed it a few times and it does the same thing. so i just leave it now. (it still works ok)

 

Wondering if the issue is not that the fuse itself is getting hot, but that the terminals and it's wire connection is getting hot and transferring that heat to the fuse.

If the fuse itself is getting hot, that would indicate that there is a large current draw which it is not able to support. By it's very nature of it being a fuse, that should cause it to blow. However, if the actual limit to the current draw is in the contacts which the fuse sets in, the crimp connection to the wires, or the wire itself and that is where the heat is being generated, that heat could transfer to the fuse without the current being high enough to melt the fuse.

You haven't installed a larger than rated fuse have you? EO2AM, what injectors are you running? 13BGT35R, what is your ignition setup? What is your dwell set at?

 

720/1680. I did blow a fuse (not sure which one) once but I’m sure I replaced it with the same one, but I'll check. Also I do have a draw someplace in the system that is something I need to look in to.

C.

Thanks for the help I'll get back with you on the map when I figure out my power issue.

 

My ignition is setup as direct fire with 3.5 dwell. The ignition fuse is only feeding the trailing coils.