Haltech fc with e6k. major problems
10-01-08, 12:05 PM
#1
fc with e6k. major problems
first of all i want to say sorry. im haltech illiterate and only know one guy locally that knows anything about these and he wasnt much help.
purchased the car with a 0 mile motor and haltech installed already. the map on it was for the old motor which im told screamed and this motor was built to the exact same specs.
car has about 800 miles on a fresh rebuild by a reputable builder. car was running pretty decently, started every time and idled great. it had a funky quirk and didnt want to go till about 3500 then it would open up and really have power. talking to the guy i know, i decided to put a stock base map on it that i found on here. it ruined the way my car ran. hard time starting and no idle and really really slow. the whole rpm range felt like the first 3500 from the previous map. i decided to switch it back and now something is really messed up. it doesnt want to start at all and if i do get it to start it will run up to 2k or so and die and after doing that a few times it will just crank. seems like tons of fuel is getting dumped in or timing is way off but timing seems to check out.
did a comp test and it reads 80psi up front and 70psi in back. all even bounces so the motor should be good
could it be a sensor going out? the ait sensor reads fault -40*. also i took off the tb and the plentum had a pool of ioly fuel in it. i think the oil is just from the premix since none of my charge pipes have oil in them.
thanks for any help.
purchased the car with a 0 mile motor and haltech installed already. the map on it was for the old motor which im told screamed and this motor was built to the exact same specs.
car has about 800 miles on a fresh rebuild by a reputable builder. car was running pretty decently, started every time and idled great. it had a funky quirk and didnt want to go till about 3500 then it would open up and really have power. talking to the guy i know, i decided to put a stock base map on it that i found on here. it ruined the way my car ran. hard time starting and no idle and really really slow. the whole rpm range felt like the first 3500 from the previous map. i decided to switch it back and now something is really messed up. it doesnt want to start at all and if i do get it to start it will run up to 2k or so and die and after doing that a few times it will just crank. seems like tons of fuel is getting dumped in or timing is way off but timing seems to check out.
did a comp test and it reads 80psi up front and 70psi in back. all even bounces so the motor should be good
could it be a sensor going out? the ait sensor reads fault -40*. also i took off the tb and the plentum had a pool of ioly fuel in it. i think the oil is just from the premix since none of my charge pipes have oil in them.
thanks for any help.
10-01-08, 12:18 PM
#2
Well, for starters if you AIT sensor is reading -40 and faulting theres either a wiring problem or the sensor is dead. Start there.
As far as the rest of it goes it soudns like it needs a good tune thats all. EDIT: The oily intake tract/plenum is typical on a turbo car with no meth injection. Its a great example of how air moves in the manifold in relation to port opening/closing.
As far as the rest of it goes it soudns like it needs a good tune thats all. EDIT: The oily intake tract/plenum is typical on a turbo car with no meth injection. Its a great example of how air moves in the manifold in relation to port opening/closing.
10-07-08, 01:34 AM
#6
BDC Motorsports
Sounds like it needs to be re-worked. Base timing reset. New map created. The works; from scratch if the map that was on there originally is blitzed. Also fix the wiring on the connector going to the air temp sensor or replace the sensor (probably the wiring).
B
B
10-20-08, 06:03 PM
#7
ok. i am really thinking the timing is trashed so im back to the stock base map since that map seems to be a lot more even throughout the spark and fuel
i have one question though. how do i lock the timing? i stabbed the cas exactly like i would on a stock computer and i want to time it. i go to lock timing on then it asks for the degree. the mark to the right on the pulley is 5*btdc right? so would i put -5 in the box or 0 or 5 or what? any help would be great
i have one question though. how do i lock the timing? i stabbed the cas exactly like i would on a stock computer and i want to time it. i go to lock timing on then it asks for the degree. the mark to the right on the pulley is 5*btdc right? so would i put -5 in the box or 0 or 5 or what? any help would be great
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10-20-08, 06:26 PM
#8
ok. i am really thinking the timing is trashed so im back to the stock base map since that map seems to be a lot more even throughout the spark and fuel
i have one question though. how do i lock the timing? i stabbed the cas exactly like i would on a stock computer and i want to time it. i go to lock timing on then it asks for the degree. the mark to the right on the pulley is 5*btdc right? so would i put -5 in the box or 0 or 5 or what? any help would be great
i have one question though. how do i lock the timing? i stabbed the cas exactly like i would on a stock computer and i want to time it. i go to lock timing on then it asks for the degree. the mark to the right on the pulley is 5*btdc right? so would i put -5 in the box or 0 or 5 or what? any help would be great
Enter -5 and shoot L1.
10-20-08, 08:42 PM
#9
got it. it was off a bit but its right on now. sweet so timing is out of the way. still doesnt like to start though. anyone want to tell me why?
ill email both the stock map im using now and the map that it was running on. i just dont know enough about it to find the problem thats making me insane.
ill email both the stock map im using now and the map that it was running on. i just dont know enough about it to find the problem thats making me insane.
10-23-08, 06:36 PM
#10
ok so... i forgot to tighten the cas bolt and bumped the cas on accident so i decided to re time it. started the car. turned the lock on at -5 and timed it. this time the mark had a few degrees variance in it. like the mark would be just left of the pin then just right and back and forth... then i figured its as close as i can get it so i tightened the cas down making sure to not bump it. i shot it again to double check and the marks werent anywhere to be seen on the pulley. i loosened the cas bolt and spun the cas till i could see the marks again. car dropped a few hundred rpm. mark was all over the place till the car eventually died. any ideas? am i missing something?
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