Haltech Electrical noise cas signal issues.
11-14-10, 08:30 PM
#1
Electrical noise cas signal issues.
Setup is an e8 on an s4 t2 with ls1 coils.
Two questions:
1. what can I do to eliminate electrical noise? I'm going to try rewiring all my grounds, cleaning them, etcetera, and MAYBE buying a new harness from ludwig.
2. in comparison, how is this issue in the sprint re and platinum 1000? Did they address it at all?
thanks!
Two questions:
1. what can I do to eliminate electrical noise? I'm going to try rewiring all my grounds, cleaning them, etcetera, and MAYBE buying a new harness from ludwig.
2. in comparison, how is this issue in the sprint re and platinum 1000? Did they address it at all?
thanks!
11-15-10, 06:35 AM
#2
Noise is generally a product of the installation. The trigger loom needs to be routed well clear of the alternator, it's output cable, and ignition leads. Do not use extra grounding of the trigger loom, other than what is provided in the Haltech harness.
Grounding in general is something not well understood by many. Putting in a bunch of extra ground leads can cause more problems that it will ever solve.
You will want one large ground from the battery to the block. This is provided in the stock harness with the lead that runs to the lug that mounts to the block with the long bolt that holds the starter to the block. This wire is often in bad shape in most FCs. It's not a bad idea to replace it and the battery terminal. A 0 gauge wires with the proper terminals is a good replacement. Make sure the mating surface at the block is clean and free of dirt and paint. I use a conductive grease on these ends to promote contact and resist corrosion.
Next you need a good chassis ground. Only one cable is necessary. A 4 gauge cable from the engine block to the firewall is all you need. Again, proper terminals, clean contact areas, and some conductive grease. You really should remove a spot of paint on the firewall where the cable makes contact. Just enough so the terminal makes good contact. The grease will prevent rust. Take your time and do it right and no one will even see you've removed any paint. I usually use one of the lugs on top of the rotor housings to attach the ground cable to the engine.
The ECU itself has provisions for two grounds. One is a signal ground that goes directly to the battery. The other is a chassis ground. Haltech recommends the chassis ground go to the chassis, I prefer the engine block. Again, I use one of the lugs on the rotor housing.
All the other stock ground straps I remove. Having several ground straps can create a ground loop condition that plays havoc with signal voltage.
The LS1 coils have two grounds as well. One is a signal ground that should go directly to the battery. The other is a feedback ground that should go to the rotor housing which the coil is firing on.
The new Platinum boxes do have a newer generation of the onboard reluctor adapter relative to what the E8/11 used. It does appear to be working very well, with less complaints of trigger issues than we've seen in the past.
Grounding in general is something not well understood by many. Putting in a bunch of extra ground leads can cause more problems that it will ever solve.
You will want one large ground from the battery to the block. This is provided in the stock harness with the lead that runs to the lug that mounts to the block with the long bolt that holds the starter to the block. This wire is often in bad shape in most FCs. It's not a bad idea to replace it and the battery terminal. A 0 gauge wires with the proper terminals is a good replacement. Make sure the mating surface at the block is clean and free of dirt and paint. I use a conductive grease on these ends to promote contact and resist corrosion.
Next you need a good chassis ground. Only one cable is necessary. A 4 gauge cable from the engine block to the firewall is all you need. Again, proper terminals, clean contact areas, and some conductive grease. You really should remove a spot of paint on the firewall where the cable makes contact. Just enough so the terminal makes good contact. The grease will prevent rust. Take your time and do it right and no one will even see you've removed any paint. I usually use one of the lugs on top of the rotor housings to attach the ground cable to the engine.
The ECU itself has provisions for two grounds. One is a signal ground that goes directly to the battery. The other is a chassis ground. Haltech recommends the chassis ground go to the chassis, I prefer the engine block. Again, I use one of the lugs on the rotor housing.
All the other stock ground straps I remove. Having several ground straps can create a ground loop condition that plays havoc with signal voltage.
The LS1 coils have two grounds as well. One is a signal ground that should go directly to the battery. The other is a feedback ground that should go to the rotor housing which the coil is firing on.
The new Platinum boxes do have a newer generation of the onboard reluctor adapter relative to what the E8/11 used. It does appear to be working very well, with less complaints of trigger issues than we've seen in the past.
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