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Haltech E8 trigger set up

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Old 10-22-07, 01:00 PM
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engineer wanabe

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E8 trigger set up

ok so i have a E8 installed on a gsxr 600 motorcycle engine.

its an 8 tooth trigger on the crank and 1 tooth home on the cam

i am only seeing aprox 2 trigger events for every home event. shouldnt i be seeing 16 for every home event? i tried turning up the filters on the home and the gain down. then i turned the gain up on the trigger and filter down but it made no difference what so ever. so i put em back to filter 1 gain 2.

it might be possible that i have the CPS installed wrong if so how do i verify which wire is which and does it even matter?

both sensors are reluctors and i am positive the trigger is wired correctly. this seems to be only only problem remaining because its making poping sounds like it wants to start i just think the timing is WAY off. or completely wrong.
Old 10-22-07, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by ikari899
ok so i have a E8 installed on a gsxr 600 motorcycle engine.

its an 8 tooth trigger on the crank and 1 tooth home on the cam

i am only seeing aprox 2 trigger events for every home event. shouldnt i be seeing 16 for every home event? i tried turning up the filters on the home and the gain down. then i turned the gain up on the trigger and filter down but it made no difference what so ever. so i put em back to filter 1 gain 2.

it might be possible that i have the CPS installed wrong if so how do i verify which wire is which and does it even matter?

both sensors are reluctors and i am positive the trigger is wired correctly. this seems to be only only problem remaining because its making poping sounds like it wants to start i just think the timing is WAY off. or completely wrong.

If it's only 8 on the crank then the Haltech needs to be setup as 16.
Start with the gains and the filters at the lowest level.
Old 10-22-07, 01:22 PM
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yup the haltech is set up as 16. the gains and filters are both low but it makes no noticeable difference
Old 10-22-07, 01:36 PM
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Does the motor run?
Is it in direct fire or wasted spark mode?
Old 10-22-07, 01:39 PM
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doesnt run but makes popping sounds.

its set up for direct fire. using 2 dual channel haltech ignitors and the stock coil-on-plug coils
Old 10-22-07, 06:09 PM
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ok so i talked to haltech and they believe my issues might be coming from my falling/rising edge set incorrectly.

so i know the sensor used for the cam is the same as the one used by the FD for its position sensors so are those set to rising is or falling?
Old 10-23-07, 01:37 AM
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Originally Posted by ikari899
ok so i talked to haltech and they believe my issues might be coming from my falling/rising edge set incorrectly.

so i know the sensor used for the cam is the same as the one used by the FD for its position sensors so are those set to rising is or falling?
Seven hours later.........
If they are exactly the same as the FD's then it's set to 'falling' edge.
Are the sensors two or three wire?
Old 10-23-07, 02:41 AM
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lol no worries. yeah i talked to haltech and they think its a falling/rising edge problem. only the cam position sensor is the exact one off the fd so ill set that to falling edge tomorrow. the crank position sensor is some thing i haven't seen on any other engines so im not sure what edge its going to be. i assume falling because its a reluctor, assuming all their signals are the same pattern.

they are both 2 wire.

oh and in case any one was wondering. the trigger count and home count mean absolutely nothing in terms of actual events, they are simply some crazy numbers from the ecu and are only useful to see if some thing is actually being read from either sensor.
Old 10-24-07, 12:24 AM
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ok here we go. i confirmed both sensors are falling and am getting good signals from either. i have also confirmed the signals from the 2 sensors with an Oscope and they are very strong. the tigger slightly better then the home.

ok so here is my notes from tonight working on the car. does any of this stuff make sense? please excuse the random ranting in it...

wave off of cam sensor is not nearly as distinct as wave off of crank sensor.

swaping sensors helped a bit.

10 amp fuse for coils keeps blowing. how many amps can the ignitors handle.

the stock fuse is a 15 amp one. so the stock coils can handle 15?

relay for ecu and coils is getting hot. its a stock bike one, probably to

small?

very very inconsitant timing when using timing light, aka timing float, lots of

it. caused by ecu or possibly to little current? caused by crappy relay?

inconsitant signal from ecu to ignitors, caused by crappy cam signal?

could a faulty ecu be an issue or would it just not work at all.

i dont know what going on. when i have the ecu connections to the ignitors set

up correct 1-1 2-2 3-3 4-4 3 and 4 do not fire but 1-2 do fire but at a

seemingly completely random patern.

switching ignitors 1-2 with 3-4 ones makes no change 1-2 stil fires while 3-4 dont.

but when i switch the pins such that 1-3 2-4 3-1 4-2 all 4 coils begin firing.
please tell me whats going on im going to kill some one.

is it possible the ignitors do not like the 2 signals one right after the other aka can they not switch fast enough and are getting confused causing the weird things happening? should i set em so 1-4 are on one and 2-3 are on the other.

this all was done without taking into account the relay, i bypassed the relay that was getting hot with a big ol wire and confirmed 12v was going to the coils.
Old 10-29-07, 02:54 PM
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ok just some more information on this problem incase any one else runs across it. it seems the random ignition events were coming from a CRAZY crank signal. the crank signal was aprox 50 volts, which is way to strong for the haltech or any ecu for that matter. so the simple fix? just a 500 ohm resistor soldered in across the 2 wires from the crank sensor. we now have dead on timing, with minimal float during cranking. this value might need to be increased for high rpm operation in the future but that is very manageable and easy, so it can be taken care of when the issue arises.

i also discovered the haltech ignitors do not enjoy not having a rest. in short they dont like firing one channel right after the other, at least in our configuration. so rewiring the ignitors so that one controlled 1-4 and the other on 2-3 made the firing much more consistent.

then i was informed by haltech that their, and most companies ignitors, are only 7 amp ones. but because bikes being the high performance machines they are use 9 amp coils. well the only solution for this was a nice CDI which we really arent prepared to pay for, or some LS1 coils. so Eric over at haltech tested some LS1 coils on the bench for us. they functioned without issue up to 16,000 rpm at 6 ms of dwell. which as every one knows is pretty much insane. so we decided just to go with some good ol' LS1 coils and hope that lets the car finally start up so we can get started on tunning.

so it seems all my issues have been pretty much resolved. BIG BIG thanks to: ludwig from ludwig motorsports, our great sponsor, Eric from Haltech for being more helpful then i had ever expected, and chrispeed.

im sure ill be back with more annoying questions...
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