Hey guys,

I'm doing my research on the Haltech install and am going through HITman's procedure for the E6K. Everything seems to be reusable for the E8, except the CAS/Trigger setup.
He specifies the follosing:
CAS_______Haltech____Haltech USA__Purpose
Red_______Yellow_____White_______Main Trigger +ve
Green_____ Green_____Green_______Home Trigger +ve
White______Red______ Red_________Main Trigger -ve
White/Black_Blue______ Black________Home Trigger -ve

The E6K schematic says the Yellow is "Trigger" the Green is "Home" the Red is "Input B" and the Blue is "Input A"

The E8 schematic says:
Yellow is "Trigger" (good)
Green is "Home" (good)
Red is "+12V Switched" (uh oh)
Blue is "Ground" (crap)

So these aren't even the same signals.
Is there a different method for setting up the trigger for E8's?

btw. This is for an FC3S

Thanks in advance

 

The E8/E11 are wired a little different. So pay attention to the names of each color. The Blue wire inside the trigger connection wires is the common ground for the CAS reluctors, so you wire that to both the main trigger and home trigger grounds, the Yellow is still main trigger positive and the Green is still Home trigger positive.

The output with an FC is handeld via the setup, you wire Ign1 to the leading side, Ign2 to the trailing coil signal and Ign3 to the toggle select, and set the software to Distributor mode.

I have a map for E8 and FC's in the Help with maps here! post. Have a look, and feel free to post feedback on the map later on.

 

Ok,
So I don't use the Red at all?

Thanks for the fast response!

While I'm asking questions, does anyone have a soft copy of the Wideband LC quick reference manual?

 

No you dont use it, unless your installation would need it. For the manual you might have to email Haltech for that one.

 

OK, One more question....

For the Ignition connections, the E8 only has Ignition Out 1-4, not the IGN out, DIG OUT1 and Aux OUT

Which one do I use for toggle and IGN on the trailing coils?

 

Read my first post.....

 

HAHA, I must have only read the part that answered my question. :-)
Thanks again!!

 

it's in the second to last page in the manual as well.

 

Sorry to bring up an old thread, but is this for sure the correct way to wire an E8 to the CAS?

To break it down, CAS white and White Black to E8 Blue, CAS Red to Haltech Yellow, and CAS Green to haltech Green, with red not used.

Thanks,
Colin

 

DON'T just read the colors.
The colors changed between Zenki and Kouki CAS's.

VERIFY the CAS colors with the FSM.

E8 is very simple as the SYNC+ and HOME+ goes into + sides of the CAS mag sensors.
Both - sides of the mag sensors go into the one ground in the Haltech wiring.

IGNORE the red wire, as that is a +12VDC switched and not needed.


-Ted

 

Hey Ted, are you saying they may have changed or they did change?

The CAS I am using is an S5. I have an S4 cas around too and it has the same colors. in the same wiring locations in relation to the sensors.

Are you talking about the colors change in the harness that connects to the CAS?

 

Personally, i never go by colors, i open up the cas and look inside it to be 100% sure that i got the right wires for each reluctors, believe me, more often than not, colors will change.

 

I just went home at lunch and looked at the FSM, re stabbed the cas using the mazda method and checked the wiring.

Hey Cladio, what would happen is the reluctors where polarity reversed?

I'm sure if you switched home and trigger the car wouldn't start, but would it make a difference if the reluctors where reversed.

 

Sometimes, sometimes, wiring them backwards will affect trigger edge, and that affects timing a lot, sometimes they dont start. If you have the polarities right, and this is an FC install, edge is Falling, there's not buts about it, so, what you could do is try checking the airgap on the reluctors, or maybe get a different CAS if you havent done that test yet.

With an E8, filter could be set to either 0 or 1, and gain to 1 or 2. If that doesnt help, i dont know what to tell you.

 

Hey Cladio, I think I got it. It zeroed out real close to where Ted says his did, at 84 with a tooth offset 9. Thanks allot for the help. Once I had that done in the 15 minutes I was able to spend rough tuning it (starting with your FC stock basemap) I got it good enough to drive around the block. There is another issue with Idle, but perhaps I should start a new post for that.

 

Good job!

Yeah, sorry about the vagueness...
The wire colors after the plug changed.


-Ted

 

Thanks Ted, you and Claudio really set me strait on this one. I managed to get it running good enough to get it to a tuner after about 2 hours of street tuning with a wideband.

 

This thread just saved my ***!!! Thanks guys!!