yusoslo

I followed the hitmans article and restabbed the CAS. Then I set up trigger to 65 and tooth offset to 3.

I lock in timing at -5BDC and then using the timing light I had to change the trigger to 70 to get it to line up. Now granted my CAS is turned fully clock wise (the adjustment nut being on the right side of the CAS sliding groove. Maybe that has something to do with.

Anyways am I being paranoid is it ok to change the trigger values? I played with it going from 55-75 to see how it affected the idle.

Well now the timing is supposedly set and the timing gun shows it is dead on, but now my idle went from 850rpms to 1150 rpms. Probably due to the increase in timing.

So I ask you, how do I lower my idle??? I am new to haltech so I am just running this base map utill my tuner comes over.

thanks

Claudio RX-7

iTrader: (1)

Well you have 2 choices, if your timing lines up perfectly now with the values you've set then all you need to do to lower RPMs is close the idle air screw on the throttle plate, please bare in mind this will affect throttle calibration, and thus throttle pumps, since you will need to recalibrate the throttle again.

Also, if you have a tooth offset of 3 this means that the method if incerting the CAS was not the one mazda recommends, if you look at the hitman's write up it tells you 2 ways of inserting it.

Anyway, i hope i've answered your question.

yusoslo

yes I know what you mean. If the timing lines up then the timing lines up.
I did reinsert the CAS like hitman recomends that is why I set the value as 3.
My only concern was the timing trigger was needed to be moved 5 point values from hitmans suggested 65. I am guessing there is some play allowed with that.
I will make adjustments to the idle screw, but unfortunately now I have no throttle postion sensor. I am picking that up tomorrow. When I calibrate that, then maybe the idle will lower itself.

lovintha7

I'm surprised it's running without a TPS.

Claudio RX-7

iTrader: (1)

Your're running without a TPS? well, thats a new one. I would wait till you have all your sensors in place then try to make it work right.

eViLRotor

iTrader: (2)

Personally, I prefer to stab the CAS the stock method, then lock it in the middle. I set timing with trigger values in software ONLY.

yusoslo

well the TPS is broken but connected to the harness, it doesnt read proper output values. So I didnt calibrate it when i inputed my new map. The car doesnt rev very smoothly right now but it does idle very nice and starts up instantly. I am picking up a S5 TB and TPS this evening to see how it does.

I wanted to follow hitmans method since I am using his maps. Stabbing the CAS was easy and the timing seems to work I just had to retard the timing to 70 trigger angle. But my CAS is manually moved so it was advanced anyways, so that should explain why I have to adjust the trigger value from hitmans estimated 65 value.

Claudio RX-7

iTrader: (1)

Yes, i second that.... Since the HITman him self says that incerting the CAS that way is the "i dont know what im doing" method.... Not to trample on anybody, i used to have it like that a loong time ago.

RETed

Fix that vacuum leak
Back off the throttle stop screw
Loosen the throttle cable


-Ted

yusoslo

haha, as of now the vaccum is very strong and I do need to adjus the idle screw.
The idle is rock steady so I doubt there is a leak.

eViLRotor

iTrader: (2)

Funny thing is, with a MAP based system it is possible to have a VAC leak and not even notice that much, except that your idle will go up.

yusoslo

well my idle was at 880rpms untill I changed the timing then it went to 1100 ish. I will go about looking for a vacuum leak. I only have 2 vaccum lines so the biggest problem will be looking at my seals where I blocked off the old vaccum ports.

On rotaries is there a certain way to find out where a vaccum leak exists?

Also is there really a problem with how I stabbed the CAS?? Should I try to return it to stock?

All it has to do is effect the tooth offset and the trigger value.
So why did Hitman move the CAS in the first place? Why not leave it and set the offset to 11.....ahhh I just dont wanna blow my first rotary motor after all of this work because of a timing issue.

eViLRotor

iTrader: (2)

I don't think Ted is saying that you must have a vac leak. He was just listing possibilities.

I would stab the CAS the following way:

-Pull CAS.
-Manually turn engine so that the Yellow mark on the pulley aligns with the pin on the front cover.
-Adjust CAS gear so that the little dot on the gear lines up with the indicator.
-Stab CAS as centered as possible, making sure it doesn't turn too much.

In software, set tooth offset to 11.
Lock timing to -5.
Zero timing using just TRIGGER ANGLE value in the software.

Claudio RX-7

iTrader: (1)

The fact is that no matter what proceedure you used to incert the CAS and set the timing, you will always have to adjust the idle screw when you finally have the timing at the right place, its common practice with stand alones, always have to do this with every installation.

yusoslo

ok, well then it sounds like I am going in the right direction then. I'll be fooling around with the idle adjustment this evening.

tearbo2

iTrader: (2)

Sindregutt

Hi!
Im pulling this thread back up from 2006 :P
I dont have the belt pullies on and my CAS is out. How do i install the pully right and the CAS? Url to the right method to do this?

Sindre

Sindregutt

http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/article...fying.html#TDC

I found this one now..

cdaleracer669

iTrader: (1)

the pulley will only go on one way

yusoslo

correct. If for whatever rear there are no marks on your pulley. get a new/used proper one that has it. They have a chuck guide which only allows it to be put on one way..as stated^^.

Then that sets your base timing and now you can fool with the CAS