lupin

iTrader: (3)

I have a stock s4 13b with s5 manifolds and all ports held open
haltech e8
500 cc prims and 720 cc secondaries
I check fuel pressure and it was around 40psi(after the filter)


and my question is why is my injector duration around 16 to 20 ms and the wideband and gas analyzer still say I'm running a little lean.


tonight I am gonna mess around with timing but right now the car isn't running that bad
It doesn't idle but I've only been tuning the afr for 3200 rpm(it's all I've had time)

but really 16 to 20 ms of injector duration. If I bring it down it's never enough fuel.

can anyone shed some light?
is it just timing

lupin

iTrader: (3)

I tuned the 2000 rpm range after adjusting the timing
she started up cold perfect and then ran good.
now trying to make it idle is very wierd
because it bounces from about 1000 to 1600 rpm and it says it dead lean
so I added fuel and it's up to 28 ms of fuel and it still says it dead lean

I'm gonna keep messing with it I guess

BASTARD

iTrader: (4)

do you have the zero throttle map on?? if so you it over rides your fuel maps from 0-2000rpm

If it's on... make sure you adjust your fuel maps back down before turning it off

RETed

What wideband?
Location?
What gas analyzer?
DynoJet you stick in the tailpipe? Ignore it.

Can you read fuel pressures while the engine is running?


-Ted

lupin

iTrader: (3)

I have a lc1 wideband
It's in my racingbeat header
I forget the name of the 5 gas

I had run a fuel pressure gauge in line but I took it out because I was just checking to see if I had any pressure.

after messing around I came across the map sensor reading in the full page gauge setup. Map was all over the place so I moved the vacuum line to another nipple and everything was good. I worked on the cold start feature and I have the car starting and idling.

I wanted to tune the car with the vdi open but it seems like it's to much of a pain in the *** because hc is so high and everything I do just seems to make it worse. So I was thinking of just having it open up with vacuum ( I can't remember how the stock actuator works if anything I will get one off of a 300).

next question

does any company make a rail with a fpr for a s5 na? I have made one in the past but it had a small leak and someone tried to fix it for me and destroyed the rail.

I don't want any down time because I only have a few more weeks of free dyno time and my funds are starting to run low.

one last thing I am having to much fun tuning the car.
Maybe it's just because my car has been down for so long because I have been busy with college.

ps I'm hoping for around 140 hp on the dyno

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

thats it?!?1

should be more like 160....

for an na, the stock fpr is fine, actually unless its ported the stock fuel system is just fine.

vdi opens with air pump pressure, would have been SO COOL if mazda used vacuum to hold it shut, finding positive pressure on an na is hard....

so have fun!

lupin

iTrader: (3)

I'm gonna see if I can use a actuator from a 300 (that uses vacuum) for the vdi.
I could just leave it open but I couldn't find a sweet spot for hc.

Tonight I'm gonna spend 5 hours tuning it. We will see how far I get.

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

is the AFR still dropping lean when the engine gets up above idle?

i'm guessing you're using a stock fuel pressure regulator?

you mentioned an aftermarket rail, taking it off, etc. so it's not too clear, but if you're not running an FPR at all, that's definitely the problem.

lupin

iTrader: (3)

It was dropping lean but after using the 2d load slice map I had it a little rich. It would still bounce lean so I just went fat with the throttle pumps and it seemed to fix it.


I am not running a fpr. I don't have time to cut the stock rail and pickup a fpr because I am very busy with finals. I don't really have the cash for one but do you know if anyone makes a rail for the s5 with a fpr welded straight on?

I blew my alt and then my batt last week (I guess because the car has been sitting?) . I pulled the harness out and checked the connections to be safe. I got a new ones ready to go in today and I got 5 hours on the dyno. I had almost done a full dyno run but I changed base timing again because it didn't sound right and then I went for new gas and thats when both alt and batt went I guess.

BASTARD

iTrader: (4)

I think we are a little confused???
Are you using the S4 fuel rail (aluminum) or S5 fuel rail(metal).

If you are using the stock unmodified S5 rail, then you have a FPR built in and you might want to make sure that you have the feed and return lines connected correctly

If you have a S4 fuel rail, then you have a FPR that can be removed in which case you would be able to run the rail without a FPR using adapter fittings

however, running without a FPR will probably yield barley enough pressure to start the motor let alone drive it down the road without stuttering and dieing


*edit* this is non turbo ???

lupin

iTrader: (3)

when I said I wasn't running a fpr I meant I wasn't running a aftermarket fpr.

I have the car idle rolling but it's not that bad. I have a little jumpy take off that I have to work on.(I threw a whole number to each value in throttle pumps because the car was going way to lean but I think it might have been a little much)

I did a soft pull on the dyno and above 3500 rpm the car went dead lean. I made 97 hp(4000k-6500)

my ending afr was 18 -_-

I started throwing more fuel in and it didn't seem to like it but that was right before I had to leave.
I have 3 days next week and then I'll have to tow it home if I don't get it perfect
wish me luck guys

BASTARD

iTrader: (4)

I wonder if you are having the same problems I had... I had a stumble in the 2500RPM range where the wideband shot up to 16-17 AFR and i couldn't fix it with the fuel map.

That left me looking at the timing. I decided to lock the timing a -5 and shoot it with a timing light. the timing stayed right at -5 until I hit 2500rpm where it retard almost 40 degrees for no apparent reason as the timing was locked and shouldn't have moved at all.

since then I double shielded my CAS wires and re-routed them away from the coils and alternator. My timing stays locked @ -5 all the way up to 6000 and the fuel ratio was between 11 and 12

lupin

iTrader: (3)

I am gonna use a better connector for my cas wires because right now I'm using male to female crimp connectors (I was waiting for weatherpack ones to come in).
I have to reset the secondary injector turn on point( i never see + pressure). I was reading a thread that i searched about it.

thanks for the info