Haltech Can't get my engine running
I just finished installing my haltech E8, and I am not geting any spark also im pretty shure im not geting fuel.
It is a stock 88 13bt motor, running factory injectors and coils. The only mods to speek of is I have a 255l fuel pump and it is funnigh a short open exust. I have checked the coils once befor and they were working same with my cas. I downloaded my base map from here. I have checked and re checked the wiring I am not geting a signal to the coils from the haltech this much i know. I am lost and am looking for some good help.
It is a stock 88 13bt motor, running factory injectors and coils. The only mods to speek of is I have a 255l fuel pump and it is funnigh a short open exust. I have checked the coils once befor and they were working same with my cas. I downloaded my base map from here. I have checked and re checked the wiring I am not geting a signal to the coils from the haltech this much i know. I am lost and am looking for some good help.
I feel for you.
I went through the same problems. I would suggest to make sure that you are getting power to all components as Chris said. Make sure your grounds are also good. Start their then we can diagnose what is the problem. I'm still stuck on why my car doesn't want to restart after first initial start. I'll ask the question in another thread. Let me know if I can help.
Aldo
Aldo
trigger set up
type-multi tooth rotary
trigger sensor-reluctor mode
home sensor-reluctor mode
trigger signal-falling
home signal-falling
pre-gain filter group
trigger filter level-2
home filter level-2
trigger gain control is 2 hashes above 0, and home gain is the same.
ignition setup.
lock degrees BTDV -5.0
lock degrees trailing split 0.0
trigger angle BTDC 65.00
tooth offset 11
constan charge tie 4.5
spark break time 600
spark mode distributor
ignition spark edge falling
trailing spark edge falling
dwell mode constant charge
trailing dwell mode constant charge
ignition map selection map 1
overall ignition trim 0.0
Hoppfully this is some help to you to help me thank you.
Do you get an rpm signal when cranking the engine? Also, not to be redundant, but I'll ask again; do you get 12V at the coil while cranking the engine?
If you are getting 12v at the coil while cranking and you are getting an rpm signal while cranking then you have a problem with your wiring. The settings look good. If you're not getting an rpm signal try lowering the filter and gain settings.
If you are getting 12v at the coil while cranking and you are getting an rpm signal while cranking then you have a problem with your wiring. The settings look good. If you're not getting an rpm signal try lowering the filter and gain settings.
Do you get an rpm signal when cranking the engine? Also, not to be redundant, but I'll ask again; do you get 12V at the coil while cranking the engine?
If you are getting 12v at the coil while cranking and you are getting an rpm signal while cranking then you have a problem with your wiring. The settings look good. If you're not getting an rpm signal try lowering the filter and gain settings.
If you are getting 12v at the coil while cranking and you are getting an rpm signal while cranking then you have a problem with your wiring. The settings look good. If you're not getting an rpm signal try lowering the filter and gain settings.
ok here is a update, i am getting a constant 12v to coils but no signal from the haltech. Also when i am cranking my fuel pump isnt running. Also on my auxillary settings it has all 4 ignitions enabled then it says not used. I am not sure what to set those at.
Trending Topics
Does the Haltech power up with the key in the on position? The fuel pump primes when you turn the key to on but no to start? Do you have an rpm reading from the Haltech when you are cranking the engine?
It really sounds like the turn on trigger lead to the Haltech or the coils (if the coils are not using the Haltech ignition output) is wired such that they're getting power with the key in the on/run position but power is dropping out when you turn the key to start. It's a common mistake.
It really sounds like the turn on trigger lead to the Haltech or the coils (if the coils are not using the Haltech ignition output) is wired such that they're getting power with the key in the on/run position but power is dropping out when you turn the key to start. It's a common mistake.
yes it powers up. I forgot to tell you that i changed it to a push buton ignition with a rocker for the haltech. fuel pump primes. There is no rpm reading we checked the wiring acording to hitman it is wired right. Help i am so lost.
Since you don't have an rpm signal while cranking you have a trigger issue. That is why you have no spark, injection, and the fuel pump isn't running. The ECU doesn't know the engine is cranking. Trying lowering the gain and filter settings to 1 and see what that gets you. You can play with those settings with no danger in hurting anything. In the end you just need to make sure you have a clean trigger signal and RPM reading on the Haltech is stable and not jumping around wildly for no reason.
Also, you might want to go back and double check your wiring to the CAS. The E8 has a different pinout than the E6K that Hitman shows on his site. On the E6K the red wire in the trigger loom is a ground. On the E8 that same wire is 12V+. So it won't get connected to anything. The white and white/black wires out of the CAS will both go to the blue wire in the E8 trigger loom since it is the common ground. It's very likely your problem lies right here. It's a common mistake.
Make sure you have a good strong battery while you're cranking the car. The CAS produces a stronger signal the faster it spins so a very weak battery that is spinning the starter over slowly can make it hard to get these things started.
Also, you might want to go back and double check your wiring to the CAS. The E8 has a different pinout than the E6K that Hitman shows on his site. On the E6K the red wire in the trigger loom is a ground. On the E8 that same wire is 12V+. So it won't get connected to anything. The white and white/black wires out of the CAS will both go to the blue wire in the E8 trigger loom since it is the common ground. It's very likely your problem lies right here. It's a common mistake.
Make sure you have a good strong battery while you're cranking the car. The CAS produces a stronger signal the faster it spins so a very weak battery that is spinning the starter over slowly can make it hard to get these things started.
So i got the cas rewired and lowered the filters so i get a rpm signal during cranking but i still cant get it to start the most i have goten is some back firing. The in jectors are firing and so are the coils. I dont know what to do now.
It comes down to fuel tuning now to get it started. There have been a couple threads on this recently. Try a search. I'll be in Chicago for a tuning session soon. If you'd like to set something up for me to come out and trouble shoot it or tune it drop me a PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
25
Jul 1, 2023 04:40 PM
KAL797
Test Area 51
0
Aug 11, 2015 03:47 PM






