Hi guys, I'm having a problem with a car and hoped someone might be able to shed some insight on this one.

Haltech E6X in a FC RX-7
LS1 coils
Stock CAS (S4)
880/1600cc injectors
Bridge port new rebuild

When I get above ~3500 RPMs, the RPM signal will intermittently drop to zero for a short length of time then return. The car will obviously hesitate badly, as the ECU thinks zero RPMs. Scoped the CAS RPM output and saw the same dips that I was getting in RPM logs. Replaced the CAS, the new one scopes OK but still had the occasional RPM drop out (on the ECU side), although less often.

We've been through the whole harness and the CAS wiring is shielded, but uses a junky weather pack connector. I think I have used these connectors for mag sensors before.

Done all of the normal troubleshooting for this type of thing. Shielding, grounds, clean power wires, power and signal wires routed away from each other, etc. I'm at my wits end with this car and the owner wants her done ASAP. Any help or a point in the right direction would be very much appreciated.

 

what dwell time are you using for the LS1 coils?

E6x is known for having ignition issues on a rotary

 

If you haven't done so already, try running a seperate ground wire from the battery to both the red & blue wires as well as the wire shield. That's how I've wired several E6Xs with no breakup issues. Also make sure the CAS wiring is routed away from the driver's side of the engine as well as far away from the alternator as possible.

If that doesn't work, find yourself a RA8 or RA10 reluctor adapter, that is the ultimate solution.

 

What are your gain and filter settings in the Trigger Setup?

 

Thanks for the input everyone!

Claudio-I was hoping you'd respond to this thread, thanks! The trigger gain is set to 1 and the Home gain is at 5. I have experimented with various values for each, and the higher the value the worse the problem seems to be.

As far as coil dwell, I'm at 3.5ms although I hear I might need more for higher boost levels. the coils stay nice and cool even after running for 45 mins straight. The problem seems to be on the input side of things rather than the output side.

For reference, the log graph I posted is of driving steady state at approx. 3600 RPMs. The bottom of the dip is roughly 800 RPMs, the engine is not spinning down to that low of an RPM as the wheels are still turning along with the dyno and the car is in gear.

The only other issue I'm experiencing is a bit of timing drift on rotor 2 leading plug. The split is perfect and rotor #1 the timing is rock solid on.

 

Do you have these settings?

Trigger Angle: 65+/- (fine tune it to your engine)
Tooth Offset: 11 (if the CAS has been inserted correctly)
Trigger Gain: 1
Trigger Filter: 1
Home Gain: 1
Home Filter: 1
Trigger / Home Edge: Falling

Spark Mode: Direct Fire
Output Type: Constant Charge
Spark Edge: Falling
Dwell time: 4.5mS (if you are using LS1 coils)

Ign1 is connected to the Leading coils
Ign2 is connected to the T1 coil
Ign3 is connected to the T2 coil

There shouldnt be anything wrong, unless your CAS is probably too old and brittle, or the wiring needs to be run away from anything that may put noise on it. Also, its good practice to improve both your grounding system and your main positive lines. Also, make sure you ground the extra ground on the harness on to a good chassis ground, and never ground the ground wires at the end of the harness, those are just there to provide the sensors with a ground.

If you're still having problems you might have wired up the CAS wires backwards.

 

Claudio,

Quick question. I bought some LS1 coils and I was wondering about the Ignition wiring. I have 4 coils and I was wondering if wire them individually to each ignition output. Ign 1 to leading1, Ign 2 to second leading rotor 2, Ign 3 to trailing 1 & Ign 4 to trailing 2. I'm not sure.

Obviously the other setup is Ign1 to both leading and Ign 2 trailing 1 and Ign to Trailing 2.

thanks


Aldo