Haltech can someone critique my map?
#1
can someone critique my map?
i have an s4 13bt with s4na rotors, and 550/1600cc setup with a bnr stage 1. i have an e6x btw, and i have no emissions and no BAC or anything. bare as can be.
im having a rough idle(ill check for vaccuem leaks) but it starts up hard when warmed up and other things im a little bit worried about. when i start driving it the idle gets better and better, but if i dont and just let it idle, it just shakes. i dont know, probably those shitty autozone rubber vaccume caps.
i know my on boost map is a rich but im more concerned about the idle and off boost cruising and whatnot. i dont have anyone really to help me tune and i dont like speeding up and down streets.
im having a rough idle(ill check for vaccuem leaks) but it starts up hard when warmed up and other things im a little bit worried about. when i start driving it the idle gets better and better, but if i dont and just let it idle, it just shakes. i dont know, probably those shitty autozone rubber vaccume caps.
i know my on boost map is a rich but im more concerned about the idle and off boost cruising and whatnot. i dont have anyone really to help me tune and i dont like speeding up and down streets.
#2
BDC Motorsports
The map is garbage. It needs trigger gains set correctly (try 1 and 2 by default), the ignition map reworked especially down low, and the fuel maps in vacuum re-done.
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#3
hm... maybe i should just take it to someone who knows what they hell they are doing.
the trigger gains are straight from one of the maps taken here.
any body care to fix these for me? the vacuum portion of the map i can do myself.
the trigger gains are straight from one of the maps taken here.
any body care to fix these for me? the vacuum portion of the map i can do myself.
Last edited by SirCygnus; 10-07-08 at 12:07 PM.
#4
BDC Motorsports
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#5
www.lms-efi.com
iTrader: (27)
If you don't have trigger issues I wouldn't play with the gains. The big thing I see is your trailing split is wacked. You need to get some more split going in the high rpm map at positive pressure.
Even Bryan's best effort based on his experience is not a substitute for getting the car properly dialed in by someone actually in the car. Every car is different no matter how similar and should be treated accordingly.
Even Bryan's best effort based on his experience is not a substitute for getting the car properly dialed in by someone actually in the car. Every car is different no matter how similar and should be treated accordingly.
#6
I'm making some maps up today for some folks and I can go ahead and do yours as well. I'll need these specs: Injector combination, engine mods and compression ratio, turbo, fuel pressure regulator and its static pressure (engine off, pump on), fuel pump, and anything else weird done to the car.
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If you don't have trigger issues I wouldn't play with the gains. The big thing I see is your trailing split is wacked. You need to get some more split going in the high rpm map at positive pressure.
Even Bryan's best effort based on his experience is not a substitute for getting the car properly dialed in by someone actually in the car. Every car is different no matter how similar and should be treated accordingly.
Even Bryan's best effort based on his experience is not a substitute for getting the car properly dialed in by someone actually in the car. Every car is different no matter how similar and should be treated accordingly.
what kind of timing issues are you talking about? the car idles just fine and runs just fine with the current trigger settings.
Last edited by SirCygnus; 10-07-08 at 02:38 PM.
#7
www.lms-efi.com
iTrader: (27)
You might not understand what the two trailing maps do. Trail map 1 is for rpm ranges below 2000 rpm. Trail map 2 covers everything from 2000 rpm and up.
Trail map 2 has 0 split all the way up to 8 psi. You only have 4* at 15 psi. You need more, say 14* at 15 psi to be conservative. With the E6X I don't recommend 0 split anywhere. It's just not accurate enough IMO to ensure you're not going to get a rouge negative split. The narrowest split I run with the E6X is 5*.
Trail map 2 has 0 split all the way up to 8 psi. You only have 4* at 15 psi. You need more, say 14* at 15 psi to be conservative. With the E6X I don't recommend 0 split anywhere. It's just not accurate enough IMO to ensure you're not going to get a rouge negative split. The narrowest split I run with the E6X is 5*.
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#8
You might not understand what the two trailing maps do. Trail map 1 is for rpm ranges below 2000 rpm. Trail map 2 covers everything from 2000 rpm and up.
Trail map 2 has 0 split all the way up to 8 psi. You only have 4* at 15 psi. You need more, say 14* at 15 psi to be conservative. With the E6X I don't recommend 0 split anywhere. It's just not accurate enough IMO to ensure you're not going to get a rouge negative split. The narrowest split I run with the E6X is 5*.
Trail map 2 has 0 split all the way up to 8 psi. You only have 4* at 15 psi. You need more, say 14* at 15 psi to be conservative. With the E6X I don't recommend 0 split anywhere. It's just not accurate enough IMO to ensure you're not going to get a rouge negative split. The narrowest split I run with the E6X is 5*.
Last edited by SirCygnus; 10-07-08 at 10:35 PM.
#10
BDC Motorsports
CS13B1.Zip map for SirCygnus
Give this one a try, SirCygnus. You'll have to set the base timing on it. If you need help doing that, we can help here in this section. Also, set the fuel pressure to 40psi with the engine off and pump on (static) and not with the engine running. Another thing -- don't go and boost on this. This is just intended to get the car running and driving.
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