Haltech Another Premix Question
Another Premix Question
I wasnt quite sure where to post this but, it seems like everyone using the Haltech is premixing. Im using the Protect-r from pettit. The hitman suggested 200 to 1 for daily driving and up to 100 to 1 for racing. 200 to 1 by reading earlier post, most would agree is not enough. As recommended by the HITMAN, i have been running 200 to 1 for a while now with no problems. Question, What are you running right now. If you back up, the factory oil metering pump only used an average of 1 quart per 1k miles. This is hardly any oil in itself. Comments???
I thought so, someone commented that their running 50/1 racing, although not hurting anything, im having enough fun washing and waxing the "rainbow" off the back of my car every week. Even at 200/1 im getting a Beautiful "rainbow" on my new slicked out black paint job.
I run Redline 2 stroke racing oil (in my kart also) and I run one bottle (16oz) every tank of fuel. That works out to around 125:1 or so. Although when my car is on the road it get driven fairly hard since it is not a DD.
Also, some people say that the MOP works when disconnected. I find this very hard to believe since it is an electronic part and has no power to it when the stock ECU is removed.
Also, some people say that the MOP works when disconnected. I find this very hard to believe since it is an electronic part and has no power to it when the stock ECU is removed.
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the ratios I've been following:
150:1 daily driving
100:1 when you know you are going to give it too her hard :P
Funny when I was talking to Rob at Pineapple he said forget about the premix thing if you are using Mobil1 synthethic--I take it he is a firm believer.
150:1 daily driving
100:1 when you know you are going to give it too her hard :P
Funny when I was talking to Rob at Pineapple he said forget about the premix thing if you are using Mobil1 synthethic--I take it he is a firm believer.
I also use Red Line at 128:1 or 1 oz. per gallon. On long trips I might use Castrol 2 stroke at the same ratio. I go to 100:1 or lower for track days. Red Lines burns very clean, stays mixed and leaves very little deposits.
Originally posted by 0piston
the ratios I've been following:
150:1 daily driving
100:1 when you know you are going to give it too her hard :P
Funny when I was talking to Rob at Pineapple he said forget about the premix thing if you are using Mobil1 synthethic--I take it he is a firm believer.
the ratios I've been following:
150:1 daily driving
100:1 when you know you are going to give it too her hard :P
Funny when I was talking to Rob at Pineapple he said forget about the premix thing if you are using Mobil1 synthethic--I take it he is a firm believer.
Rev. Dr. Jay
http://ricemobile.net/
well guys, i finalyy got the mech omp ive been wating for...so my mad scientest experment will begin soon...
the experiment that is- making a spacer plate that allow
1) u to run a mec opm on a fd
2) alow a seperate and diff oil supply to the omp injectors..basically so u could run syn in the engine( for all u die hard dino juice guys) and then run 2 cycle syn oil into the injectors
b4 everone jumps down my throat, yes there is a guy who is in the process of making these...but hees been taking a while..righ now his estimate is the end of this month, so if his comes out first ill let u know...it dosent seem like this will be 2 hard of a job...but then again its all if the cnc place by me will be able to coppy my template....
the experiment that is- making a spacer plate that allow
1) u to run a mec opm on a fd
2) alow a seperate and diff oil supply to the omp injectors..basically so u could run syn in the engine( for all u die hard dino juice guys) and then run 2 cycle syn oil into the injectors
b4 everone jumps down my throat, yes there is a guy who is in the process of making these...but hees been taking a while..righ now his estimate is the end of this month, so if his comes out first ill let u know...it dosent seem like this will be 2 hard of a job...but then again its all if the cnc place by me will be able to coppy my template....
Full Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 175
Likes: 3
From: D/FW Texas
From reading this thread there seems to be a little confusion regarding the OMP. It is a mechanical device, even with the electrical disconnected it still flows oil into the engine. The electronic part is a servo motor that adjusts the OMP flow rate and a pot so the stock computer can monitor the flow rate set by the servo. The computer parks the OMP servo at aprox. 50% flow for start up, so most everyone running a Haltech has 50% of the stock level chamber lube all the time. I have removed the servo on mine and installed a bolt with a locking nut so I can easily make adjustments. Two other points to consider: combustion chamber lubrication reduces friction so your seals will not wear excessivly over time. Lets face it if your pushing your car hard enough that you upgraded to a Haltech, something else is going to break long before your seals wear out due to insufucient lubrication. Oil in the combustion chamber lowers the octane rating of your mixture, the more you add the lower it goes (so I am told). Adding lots of premix and running high boost is not really a good idea.
IMHO If your running near stock levels and hoping to get a lot of miles out of you engine then a little extra premix is not a bad idea. If your pushing it very hard/racing don't even bother with premix, and most definetly run synthetics.
Good, bad, Im the one with the gun
IMHO If your running near stock levels and hoping to get a lot of miles out of you engine then a little extra premix is not a bad idea. If your pushing it very hard/racing don't even bother with premix, and most definetly run synthetics.
Good, bad, Im the one with the gun
Full Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 175
Likes: 3
From: D/FW Texas
I have taken three of these OMP's apart and the physical position of the stepper motor shaft does appear to be more like 1/3 of the way in. Chris and Ari tell me its supposed to be 50% flow at default, I don't know how they know this but the physical position may not directly relate to flow rate.
There OMP is at default and they run 8 oz with every 5 gallons (fuel cell) in there drag car, they also use 116 oct fuel. There not sure if they really need that much but it's been working for them so far so .... (Amsoil synthetic premix).
There OMP is at default and they run 8 oz with every 5 gallons (fuel cell) in there drag car, they also use 116 oct fuel. There not sure if they really need that much but it's been working for them so far so .... (Amsoil synthetic premix).
Full Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 175
Likes: 3
From: D/FW Texas
Personally I think this is to much, I was very surprised when they told me they put that much in, keep in mind there application is very different from a street car. With the OMP at default I never add more than 8 oz (racing) sometimes I don’t even bother. You would probably need to have a lot of miles on your engine before you would see excessive wear due to poor apex seal lubrication, my motors never seem to last that long.
How hard would it be to control the S5 OMP 'properly'? Does the factory ECU add oil when under boost (there are vacuum lines running to the oil injectors from the manifold -- what're these for?)?
Doesn't the premix eventually separate from the gas? I can't imagine that being to good for the seals!
One more Q for you guys: Can I pass smog running premix? If so, at what ratio (assuming the stock OMP is left on the engine, but not controlled)?
Thanks!,
Manolis
Doesn't the premix eventually separate from the gas? I can't imagine that being to good for the seals!
One more Q for you guys: Can I pass smog running premix? If so, at what ratio (assuming the stock OMP is left on the engine, but not controlled)?
Thanks!,
Manolis
We need to remember that the stock placement of the oil injectors is in the middle of the
rotor housing. With the stock omp on a stock motor if you tear down a 50,000 +/- mile
motor you will find that the oil has only protected a small portion of the housing leading
from the oil injector hole around the housing. So it is a good to add oil, 4 oz to stock and
and 12-14oz to "disconnected" omp motor. The above is based on motors that I have seen, built, blown up ect. since I bought my first GXL in 1982.
rotor housing. With the stock omp on a stock motor if you tear down a 50,000 +/- mile
motor you will find that the oil has only protected a small portion of the housing leading
from the oil injector hole around the housing. So it is a good to add oil, 4 oz to stock and
and 12-14oz to "disconnected" omp motor. The above is based on motors that I have seen, built, blown up ect. since I bought my first GXL in 1982.
Originally posted by Eric Michel
From reading this thread there seems to be a little confusion regarding the OMP. It is a mechanical device, even with the electrical disconnected it still flows oil into the engine. The electronic part is a servo motor that adjusts the OMP flow rate and a pot so the stock computer can monitor the flow rate set by the servo. The computer parks the OMP servo at aprox. 50% flow for start up, so most everyone running a Haltech has 50% of the stock level chamber lube all the time. I have removed the servo on mine and installed a bolt with a locking nut so I can easily make adjustments. Two other points to consider: combustion chamber lubrication reduces friction so your seals will not wear excessivly over time. Lets face it if your pushing your car hard enough that you upgraded to a Haltech, something else is going to break long before your seals wear out due to insufucient lubrication. Oil in the combustion chamber lowers the octane rating of your mixture, the more you add the lower it goes (so I am told). Adding lots of premix and running high boost is not really a good idea.
IMHO If your running near stock levels and hoping to get a lot of miles out of you engine then a little extra premix is not a bad idea. If your pushing it very hard/racing don't even bother with premix, and most definetly run synthetics.
Good, bad, Im the one with the gun
From reading this thread there seems to be a little confusion regarding the OMP. It is a mechanical device, even with the electrical disconnected it still flows oil into the engine. The electronic part is a servo motor that adjusts the OMP flow rate and a pot so the stock computer can monitor the flow rate set by the servo. The computer parks the OMP servo at aprox. 50% flow for start up, so most everyone running a Haltech has 50% of the stock level chamber lube all the time. I have removed the servo on mine and installed a bolt with a locking nut so I can easily make adjustments. Two other points to consider: combustion chamber lubrication reduces friction so your seals will not wear excessivly over time. Lets face it if your pushing your car hard enough that you upgraded to a Haltech, something else is going to break long before your seals wear out due to insufucient lubrication. Oil in the combustion chamber lowers the octane rating of your mixture, the more you add the lower it goes (so I am told). Adding lots of premix and running high boost is not really a good idea.
IMHO If your running near stock levels and hoping to get a lot of miles out of you engine then a little extra premix is not a bad idea. If your pushing it very hard/racing don't even bother with premix, and most definetly run synthetics.
Good, bad, Im the one with the gun
That was very good info. I'm currently in the process of upgrading my car (see mods). I bought my set-up from RP and Ari told me to keep my pump in and add 6-8 ounces of two-stroke oil with every fill-up--16 gal.
RP also recommends NOT running synthethic oil unless the engine is "highly modded" as it does not completely burn as regular oil does. When I asked Ari to elaborate he said at stock boost levels, it probably won't burn completely but above that it should burn.
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