K i have an E8 and also a VariCool progressive Water/alc system. I want to simplify the system.....

I want to get rid of the main varicool box and run the pump with the E8 output

Since the E8 can control the system with a PWM output i need to know what use to control the pump......

There is no way i could use a regular relay could i??? It would surely burn up in no time running at duty cycle

I looked on the net a bit and didn't find anything

Some Alc systems come with a PWM input so what i need must exist...........

Do I need some sort of high speed relay or some kind of digital transistor motor control or what?

http://www.superdroidrobots.com/shop...asp?itemid=471

something like that??

what does a pump draw? 5-10 amps?

thanks
zac

 

Typical mechanical relays would not be able to do this job efficienctly due to...
1) Inherent dwell or delay in the switching sequence - probably in the millisecond range, but it might be enough to throw everything off
2) not being designed to switch ON / OFF rapidly - they do have cycle limitations, and exposing them to PWM control would surely cause them to hit their cycle limit a lot faster

Something like what you asking is definitely high current, and finding something that'll handle high current and solid-state is pretty damn hard to find.

Someone dumped this link...
http://www.hella.co.nz/?t=9&pcid=251...=778&View=Full

It's an .NZ link, so I dunno if you can get it locally, but high current, solid-state relays are out there.
Funny how the pic show the unit labeled "MADE IN U.S.A."

Doing a quick Google search on "solid state relay 12v", I found this page...
http://www.futurlec.com/RelSS.shtml
Gotta be cheaper than your motor control thingy!


-Ted

 

Worst comes to worse you could build something like a mosfet driver. You're idea was what I had originally thought for my own car but have decided to use a constant duty pump and fire a solenoid directly like the FJO system. This eliminates the need for the high current driver.

Here's the link to the same Hella relay on their US site. It specifically mentions it for use in PWM switching.
http://cat.hella.com/hella232/jsp/se...sp?nologin=yes

Summit offeres them for about $37. How did we ever survive without the internet?
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

 

Haha..... you are correct "solid state relay" is the golden search word

so you do think a those relays pictured will do a PWM signal without problems?

I saw that the 2000 jeep cherokee specifically uses a PWM relay to control the engine fan (but had problems with failure)

I see them all over on ebay... maybe try it i guess




That is a good idea........the link with the the the solenoids didnt work for me.

that is almost maybe a better idea......

where can i find some inline solenoids???? i dont want to put an actual injector on, jjust could put in a solenoid and keep the the jet i have, and would still work the way i want it to

thanks guys

 

Probably use a N20 solenoid if thats the way you were thinking of going. Constant duty pump, traditional nozzle/jet, with a squeeze solenoid to shut off the flow, correct?

 

Eh, their site is java based. If you follow that link to the search you can go through the drop down menu on the left to find the TDS on the relay. Search electronics>relays>mini-relays>solid state.

This was discussed a while back and someone came up with a good reason the ss relays won't work IIRC. Try a search and see what you come up with. I really wish we could get a moderator worth a **** in this forum to sticky some of this stuff!



FJO uses what appears to be a nitrous solenoid. They sell them with jets as part of the assembly. Check out their site for more info. I've had Haltechs directly trigger nitrous solenoids before without issue but that was just in an on-off fashion. Not sure how it will work as a PWM. But again, that's what I plan for my own car when the time comes.

 

yes exactly as you describe.......

but i dunno if the N20 solenoids will handle the PWM signal without burning up in a short time, sort of like a regular relay

hmm or could just stick a huge injector inline.........

I saw this type of solenoid offered by aquamist, coolingmist, or one of those big names....... ill see if i can find it

thanks ludwig, ill check that stuff out

 

ok this

http://coolingmist.com/detailmain.as...agename=image2



that looks like an inline valve just of what we need right?

$180......... sheezz

keep searching

maybe i could ni**er rig an old BAC valve for the trick

 

Looks like a nitrous solenoid to me. Alamo Motorsports sells them for $128 with the jet of your choice. A regular NOS solenoid is close to $100 so it's not that bad of a deal. There are actually nitrous kits that pulse the solenoids for variable amounts of no2 injection so these things should be able to stand up to the pwm control. It's how FJO and Coolingmist are doing it anyway.

 

My goodness.... are they really using PWM to control the pump, with no accumulator or solenoid valves?
If you want to do it right, buy a ShurFlow accumulator (or an aquamist accumulator if you like to spend money), and a decent PWM-controlled 2-way solenoid valve (or a 3-way with one port plugged). If you mount the solenoid remotely from the nozzle, use an in-line check valve to keep the line pressurized.
$40 plastic-body solenoids from McMaster-Carr will do the trick, and most likely you can adapt an ARO or MAC pneumatic valve if you stay at 50/50 water/meth or below.

 

http://www.robotpower.com/products/simple-h_info.html


Guy on the efi101 board is looking to use this mosfet driver to drive his fuel pump through a PWM output from his Motec. He doesn't say but I'm guessing it's a returnless system. At any rate the driver is rated at 25A and 24VDC and is specifically designed for driving DC motors through PWM. Price is $80.

 

I did it with this, I am using the PWM to control the cooling mist valve off the generic PWM map.

What I like about the cooling mist setup, an why I chose it:

.4 amp draw per valve (pair of solenoids) means 2 can be run in parallel of a single PWM without a high speed relay or injector driver, the FJO valve draws 8 amps (according to FJO).

Its all stainless steel, except the aluminum valve body, which is anodized.

Its not married to a specific nozzel, while each valve only supports up to 500CC, it is in line before the nozzel.

It seems to be working very reliably off the haltech PWM, after just a little bit of experimentation, I figured out a working freq, and where to start the PWM (what duty cycle) pretty quickly.

With a freq of 30 HZ I get a real nice progressive atomized flow from 40 to 100% duty cycle.

The valve is very quiet, much quieter than haltech boost control solenoids.