Rust?
#3
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: NW Chicago Area
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OK,
Now this is a little risky, and it is only for cheap people (like my friends and I!). Its also best if you have paint for ur car or can get ur car paint color. I would personally only do this on a beater or a white car.
Go out and buy a pack of styrafoam cups. Now go to a hardware store and buy a bottle or tin or bucket or whatever of acitone (which is found in nail polish remover). When you get home, pour the acitone in a container and place some cups on it. WHOA, that is REALLY cool isnt it? I learned that in organic chemistry class. Now you SHOULD have this liquid plasic stuff at the bottom of the acitone. Now take it out with a fork or something and let it dry for about 3 hours out of the sun, and then start applying it to your wheel well. try not to let it touch too much of the paint on the car, as acitone eats paint pretty well. Let it dry, it will take at least a day or two till u can drive it.
When you are done, there won't be the rust, but there WILL be hard plastic on your wheel well. You should paint the plastic the color of your car, or paint ur wheel wells white, if it can go with ur car.
Now this is a little risky, and it is only for cheap people (like my friends and I!). Its also best if you have paint for ur car or can get ur car paint color. I would personally only do this on a beater or a white car.
Go out and buy a pack of styrafoam cups. Now go to a hardware store and buy a bottle or tin or bucket or whatever of acitone (which is found in nail polish remover). When you get home, pour the acitone in a container and place some cups on it. WHOA, that is REALLY cool isnt it? I learned that in organic chemistry class. Now you SHOULD have this liquid plasic stuff at the bottom of the acitone. Now take it out with a fork or something and let it dry for about 3 hours out of the sun, and then start applying it to your wheel well. try not to let it touch too much of the paint on the car, as acitone eats paint pretty well. Let it dry, it will take at least a day or two till u can drive it.
When you are done, there won't be the rust, but there WILL be hard plastic on your wheel well. You should paint the plastic the color of your car, or paint ur wheel wells white, if it can go with ur car.
#6
I hate to burst the bubble, but unless you remove the corrosion, the car will keep falling apart. If you do either of those you should remove most of the corrosion first... Otherwise they wont even stick that long, and even if you do that repair, there is a good chance it will be stronger then the corrosion... So the wheel well falls apart, and the repair is still looking good...haha
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#9
Old [Sch|F]ool
Yeah before you fix rust you have to completely eradicate it... usually by completely cutting out the affected part and welding in patch panel.
If you just throw putty over rust, the metal will continue to rust and the putty will just fall off and make things look uglier.
If you just throw putty over rust, the metal will continue to rust and the putty will just fall off and make things look uglier.
#10
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hehe,
well we did this on a 1990 camry so we really didnt care too much. If you were serious about it you would definatly want to rid the rust, but really there isnt much you can do to save a car from rust
well we did this on a 1990 camry so we really didnt care too much. If you were serious about it you would definatly want to rid the rust, but really there isnt much you can do to save a car from rust
#11
Actually if a cars starts to rust, there is a lot you can do depending on how much work you want to do, and where the affected area is. Cut and replace it the best way, but if you sand it get all the lose rust and crap off it, and your reprotect with alodine or some other protectant then prime and paint, you can make it last a lot longer.... I have to do this all time at work... It works just fine..
#12
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Ontario, Canada
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Rust
Here in Ontario, Canada we love to use SALT in the winter and we all know what salt does to older Japaneese non-galvanized steel. Anyways the best thing to do, and I know cause I go through this every year. Go to your local hardware/automotive supply store and buy the following items:
1)A couple Wire wheels (Good Drill required)
2)Paint thinner
3)Shop towels
4)Black Rust inhibiter Paint
5)Black Rubberized Undercoating
Use the wire wheels in your drill and remove the rust from the affected areas. Using your shop towels soaked in thinner wipe the exposed steel thouroghly. Then apply a thin coat of Rust inhibitor on your exposed area. Finally allow first coat to dry, then apply 1-2 coats of Rubberized undercoating. This will not stop the rust from happening, but slow down the process big time! Undercoating in the fall is always a good idea aswell.
1)A couple Wire wheels (Good Drill required)
2)Paint thinner
3)Shop towels
4)Black Rust inhibiter Paint
5)Black Rubberized Undercoating
Use the wire wheels in your drill and remove the rust from the affected areas. Using your shop towels soaked in thinner wipe the exposed steel thouroghly. Then apply a thin coat of Rust inhibitor on your exposed area. Finally allow first coat to dry, then apply 1-2 coats of Rubberized undercoating. This will not stop the rust from happening, but slow down the process big time! Undercoating in the fall is always a good idea aswell.
#13
It's a Hammer
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Richland WA
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I had some surface rust under my battery tray and this is how I fixed it:
1. Flushed area with backing soda and water, then rinsed
2. Wire brushed area. Toothbrush sized brush works best shop vac'ed area
3. Coated area with Rust-Oleum Rust reformer (converts rusty metal to to a protected paitable surface) (Home Depot)
4. Painted with spray paint
1. Flushed area with backing soda and water, then rinsed
2. Wire brushed area. Toothbrush sized brush works best shop vac'ed area
3. Coated area with Rust-Oleum Rust reformer (converts rusty metal to to a protected paitable surface) (Home Depot)
4. Painted with spray paint