EDIT: This is from an 87 TII

After going boom last summer due to screwing up my timing, I decided to finally tear this engine down and see what I need to do for a rebuild. It was quite easy I did it all myself in about 2 hours. This thing is so simple! Now I need to know if my rotor and housing are reusable. The housing is scored in the center in 2 spots. The rotor has a slight score in the middle. Every apex seal groove though is perfect. My end plate and center plate for this housing are perfect. Everything else was great. I found that my seal in this rear rotor cracked in the middle (hence the housing getting scored in the middle.
Here are the pics:

You can clearly see the score. It is not deep at all, just feels very scraped and obviously the chrome isn't there.

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Score near the exhaust port.

You can definitely see it took a chunk out. The score is deepest right at the exhaust port.

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As you can see on the rotor a little bit is gone. All the other seal grooves are perfect

So what do you think? Do I need a new rotor and/or housing? I actually have another dead J-spec engine laying around.

 

Dam.... No Trash

 

The Housing is a paper weight, the rotor is usable for a low cost rebuild but be sure there are no burrs the protrude into the apex seal slot.

Paul

 

I agree the rotor could be reused it might look pretty good even after you clean it up. The housing is junk.

 

let me know if you need a rotor housing or rotor i have them

 

Thanks for the responses guys. I figured the housing was junk. I'm cleaning up the rotor, I think it may be OK. However I have another motor that overheated that I am going to pull apart. I hope I can reuse that housing and if need be the rotor.

I'll make a nice display piece out of the housing with a domokun inside

 

If the engine overheated i would think most parts are no good. I do have one pretty good conditon S4 T2 rotor housing, i think its a rear but i have to check when im home. Im located on long island also so PM me, maybe we can work something out. - Nick

 

O yeah also have a set of S4 T2 rotors with good slots and bearings, dont remember the weight letter, will have to check.

 

Thats not true, in most cases only the water seal is damaged.

Sometimes the irons get a little warped, but can be lapped flat. usually the rotors and housings come out fine.

 

Housing come out fine? I thought they would end up being the most warped part. Well anyways once you tear apart your spare block let us know whats good.

 

I haven't torn down my overheated motor yet, I can only (if at all) work on a weekend. It was a j-spec that had OK compression, but must have sat so long that the water seals totally dried up and cracked. When I got it started it just ATE the coolant and mixed with the oil. I shut it down when it passed half way on the gauge. I don't know how hot it has to get (or how long) to really warp an iron or housing. I'll find out soon enough though. Thanks for the offers felix, if all my parts are junk I'll get in touch with you

 

Hope you didnt let the blown coolant seal block sit longer than 6-8 weeks, if so you really arent going to like what you find. Good luck either way.

 

^^Uh oh!! It sat for 9 months... Ooops. The fun begins! I drained the pan this past weekend and coolant poured out. This is gonna rule!

 

Just so you are prepared, most likely 2 of your irons are going to be shot and 1 of your rotors. Housings will be just fine but the irons and rotors probably wont have survived. All depends on how bad the coolant seal failure was but it isnt going to be pretty

 

Just curious... Why would the iron and rotor be toast? Rust? Which housings? Which rotor?

My coolant seal failure was epic: it ran for a few minutes and spewed GOO out the filler, dipstick tube. The **** was bananas! I drained coolant ,followed by beige "mud" out of my oil pan last weekend.

I look forward to seeing it. I am enthusiastic about pulling motors apart lately

 

Rust will eat the surface of the irons and seize up the rotors where the seals will not be able to be removed, the rotors will likely look like something out of the titanic and the irons could be reused if hit will steel wool but will likely cause the engine to always slightly smoke due to the rust eating away some of hte surface causing oil to get underneath the oil control rings and past them into the combustion area of the rotor housings.

 

Awesome!

 

BUMP for my own thread... sort of. Just an update if anyone is interested (or willing to help).
I pulled my overheated motor apart just a week ago. What a mess! However, I don't think I am in horrible shape either. Since the coolant and oil mixed, everything was coated in slime. But the slime had oil in it... It doesn't look like things rusted! The rotors I have pulled out (but not fully cleaned). The apex seals popped right out, as did all but 2 of the corner seals (out of 12 total). With a little coaxing even those came out fairly easily. I had trouble with only 1 side seal (out of 12 total), which is really stuck in the rotor and I (obviously) broke it trying to get it out. About 1/3 of it is still jammed in there. Any tips on getting a stuck side seal out? I hit it with WD40 + carb cleaner. I will try again some more perhaps tomorrow night.

I've printed a majority of the engine section from the FSM. I know what I need to check as far as specs go to see what I can reuse.

My housings appear to be in great shape. However, I do need to check for warping.

The irons I am not sure about... but I fear the worst (hopefully the ones from my other blown motor are within spec). The coolant passages are filled with a thick gunk. Looks like rust mixed with the coolant/oil slime. It's like a chunky solid. Some places worse than others. I am really unsure what is reusable as I have not cleaned them. Again, I will have to check these parts (once I have bought my tools) to even see if they are within spec.

Any ideas where to buy a good set of calipers, precision straight edge and feeler gauges?

Thanks!