Oil Pressure Sender - How to test?
07-12-12, 10:59 AM
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Oil Pressure Sender - How to test?
It's an 88 GTU with 1100 miles on a fresh rebuild. Among idle/hot start issues, this one is bugging me the most.
My oil pressure gauge on my cluster sits at zero.
If I hook up a friends sensor/gauge, I'm fine on pressure, so I know the engine is fine.
How do I test my sending unit so I know if the issue is the unit or the cluster without dropping $80 for a new one? I have two "spares" from other engines I've torn down, but they don't blip the gauge either. I know it's completely possible they're shot as well. But if I could test them, I'd know for sure.
My tach and voltage work intermittently as well, so I'm hoping it's just the dash cluster.
If there's a thread on this already, I couldn't find it.
My oil pressure gauge on my cluster sits at zero.
If I hook up a friends sensor/gauge, I'm fine on pressure, so I know the engine is fine.
How do I test my sending unit so I know if the issue is the unit or the cluster without dropping $80 for a new one? I have two "spares" from other engines I've torn down, but they don't blip the gauge either. I know it's completely possible they're shot as well. But if I could test them, I'd know for sure.
My tach and voltage work intermittently as well, so I'm hoping it's just the dash cluster.
If there's a thread on this already, I couldn't find it.
07-12-12, 01:51 PM
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So with a cold engine off, I get about 70ohms resistance.
Warm engine off, 40ohms resistance.
Cold/warm engine running, 0ohms resistance.
Safe to say my sensor is shot? Prolly. But then shouldn't my oil pressure gauge be peaked instead of flat? That may be in the gremlins behind the cluster thats f'ing with everything else.
Warm engine off, 40ohms resistance.
Cold/warm engine running, 0ohms resistance.
Safe to say my sensor is shot? Prolly. But then shouldn't my oil pressure gauge be peaked instead of flat? That may be in the gremlins behind the cluster thats f'ing with everything else.
07-12-12, 04:30 PM
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Is it possible, since my sending unit/sensor/whatever that thing is called goes to 0ohms with the car idling, that ruined my gauge? 0ohms is essentially doing what you're suggesting, right?
I'll try it anyways.
Also going to pull the gauge cluster and check all my connections in the back.
07-12-12, 10:45 PM
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Ok, so I checked one of my other sending units, and it read no continuity when off the car. Installed in the car, still no continuity. Started the car, seemed to be working great!
Gauge still read nil.
Removed the gauge cluster and pulled out the oil pressure and voltage gauges. Could see visible burn marks on the oil pressure mechanism. Took it all apart and switched both the voltage and oil pressure mechanisms with those from an S5 cluster I have. Put everything back together, works great! Both gauges read about a 1/4"-3/8" high, but that's because I'm sure I put the needles on a little high. 15v and 50psi doesn't sound quite right, lol.
So it was a combo of a bad sending unit fried my gauge.
Gauge still read nil.
Removed the gauge cluster and pulled out the oil pressure and voltage gauges. Could see visible burn marks on the oil pressure mechanism. Took it all apart and switched both the voltage and oil pressure mechanisms with those from an S5 cluster I have. Put everything back together, works great! Both gauges read about a 1/4"-3/8" high, but that's because I'm sure I put the needles on a little high. 15v and 50psi doesn't sound quite right, lol.
So it was a combo of a bad sending unit fried my gauge.
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07-13-12, 11:14 PM
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Is your trailing coil grounded?.
there is a connector around that bracket that can shake loose.Just under the front part of the trailing coil on the strut tower.
Also,check for a single black wire with a Square black Thing(with an eyelet on it) that should rightfully be attached to one of the slave cylinder bolts.It is a capacitor for the Oil sender.
there is a connector around that bracket that can shake loose.Just under the front part of the trailing coil on the strut tower.
Also,check for a single black wire with a Square black Thing(with an eyelet on it) that should rightfully be attached to one of the slave cylinder bolts.It is a capacitor for the Oil sender.
03-09-13, 12:30 AM
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When i bought my car the oil gauge was completely dead. I got a entirely different cluster and hooked it up. Now i have a working gauge, but now i have worries. When i start up and idle im getting around 30 which ive determined to be acceptable. After driving once the engine warms up im getting about 15 at idle. At 4000rpm it will reach up to about 40. The past couple of days ive noticed it dropping to below 0 at idle very scaryyyyy. The oil level is full and i havent noticed any leaks. yesterday i cleaned the contact points on the sending unit. Thats when i started getting the lower readings down past 0. perhaps the sender is bad im going to steal one off my cousins parts car and try that. But in the mean time im still trying to diagnose the problem. Im at a loss right now. All motor operation seams fine but im new to rotaries so i guess they could be aweful and i wouldnt know. Any thoughts or feedback would be appreciated. Thanx guys
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