need some help with a high idle
need some help with a high idle
Hi, my name is Mike, Buffalo Ny. I have an 88 SE non turbo 5 speed. 2000 miles on a rebuilt engine. The car has been idling @ 1500 rpm's since I got it. I put in 4 new NGK T & L plugs ( copper ) I had platinum, lowered the idle to 1200. I should have stopped, Gas costs a fortune. I had already done a carb cleaner test 4 Vac leak, nothing. The top Idle screw is closed tight, the 8 mm box idle nut is all the way out. 1200, smooth. I noticed a wire broke on the tps, removed, re-soldered, replaced. A smooth 2200 rpm idle. WTF. I disconnected the tps. I have added premix 1 oz to the gallon of gas, good non synthetic 2 stroke. The OMP leaks, I have the block off kit. I would appreciate any advice to get this beautiful car to purr. Thanks...Mike
To adjust the idle adjust screw on top of the Dynamic Chamber requires jumpering the Initial Set Coupler or you will be fighting the BAC as you try to adjust the idle speed. If you did jumper the Coupler then check the throttle linkage to see if it is too tight perhaps and if you have cruise control then it has its own throttle cable as well that could be too tight. And the timing needs to be just right and then of course the car needs to idle for about 20 minutes or so for the idle to fully drop to its normal operating level. And which wire was damaged at the TPS as in its color?
Satch this is my second attempt to reply, 1st time might have failed...Satch, the broken tps wire was black, with a small red line. The kid next door, 16 year old, runs a little small engine shop out his garage, grabbed the whole throttle assembly, turned slightly clockwise, & the engine slowed down, tps button pushed in maybe 1/16th of an inch. I have a hard copy of the 1987 dealer repair manual, would that show me how to find & jumper the initial set coupler. I do think the T. cable is to tight, always ran @ 900 RPM. I have no air condition . I do have a leaky omp could that be a vacuum leak. with the tps connected last night, I managed to lower the idle to 1400 with that spring loaded bolt @ the tip of the throttle. I tightened it to pretty good resistance, went 4 a ride & the idle was surging up & down. Shut down. I hope to pull this idle thing off, I will be forced to try & find a pro . No RX 7 guys in Buffalo. Thank U Satch 4 the reply. Mike
The B/R wire is an input signal to the ECU so it needs to be set to 1 volt w/key to on and engine fully warmed and if the engine is cold it will take about 20 minutes of driving to make sure the engine is fully warmed up. Again., the engine needs to be fully warmed and there are no exceptions unless your Fast Idle mechanism was disabled which is not likely. The coupler you are looking for is located near the leading coil is Green in color and has only two wires to it thus these are the two wires to be jumpered.
Thanks 4 the info Satch, I found the coupler, have a small jumper wire, Should I open the 8mm nut & tighten the idle screw down, as it is all the way out, & open the idle screw on top of the throttle body as it is closed, before I let the car warm up &, shut down, with key on to check 4 1 volt on the tps to make sure it is working properly ??. All the throttle parts R original, I hope they All work. Thanks again. Poor but determined. Mike
Thanks 4 the info Satch, I found the coupler, have a small jumper wire, Should I open the 8mm nut & tighten the idle screw down, as it is all the way out, & open the idle screw on top of the throttle body as it is closed, before I let the car warm up &, shut down, with key on to check 4 1 volt on the tps to make sure it is working properly ??. All the throttle parts R original, I hope they All work. Thanks again. Poor but determined. Mike
Hi Satch
Not exactly sure which screw you are referring to concerning the 8mm sizing. The screw encased in a spring that is part of the throttle linkage is for setting the TPS to 1 volt w/key to on. Just play around w/the screws until you know for sure that the TPS is properly set to 1 volt and that the Idle Adjust screw is positioned as such to make for a proper idling speed. If this means going back and forth to make sure everything is as it should be then do so. And remember to pull the jumper from the coupler after the final adjustments have been made.
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ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ The screw with the 8 mm nut is on the front left near the throttle itself. I did every thing U said, got the idle down to 1000/ 1100. Runs better with the TPS disconnected. I had 3 guys, all mechanics look @ it & they all agreed, ( The throttle itself does not totally return clockwise ). The throttle lifted by hand turned right with a little force, gets the idle to 750, smooth as a baby's ***. They all said get a new or refurbished throttle body. Thank U for all your help, U R a true gentleman, got CLASS........Mike
Satch SUCCESS . Took it to the local Mazda dealer, Useless ******. My handy 16 year old neighbor managed to tighten the screw on the bottom 700 smooth idle with the TPS disconnected. Ran great. Next day I started it , it surged 600 1300 back and forth, I hooked up the tps, idled @ 1400 smooth, settled down to 1000 after a fun run, I forgot the tps was still connected ( after 3 or 4 days the car now idles @ 900 rpm smooth. Kevin @ Rotary resurection ( MR Friendly sorry kevin : - ) rebuilt & re- did all the grounds. I wonder if the premix threw off the 25 year old computer ??, & it now accustomed to the clean probably slightly rich gas. Satch between all your help, & Kevins great re-build, I am where I want to be. New motor, brand new front & rear suspension This little red non turbo is plenty fast enough for me. Beat a 5.0 mustang G T from 60 mph to 140, kicked his ***. I could only imagine a Turbo NOT NECESSARY. Thanks Satch 4 saving me a lot of much needed $$$. I hope I can someday re-pay U. God Bless.. Mike Buffalo NY
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