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Old May 19, 2011 | 09:54 PM
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From: cape coral
engine build locked up

ok before anyone jumps on here and says to go pay someone to build this or use the search bar or just bash this thread dont waste your time...


so i bought this jdm s5 t2 about a month ago big street port full rebuild kit (atkins) best of everything i finally had some time to sit down and put it together i was watching the diy-re videos there very informative every thing was going smooth first rotor went together no problem spun the motor over no sticking next plate next housing then the 2nd rotor went in motor still turns fine get all the tension bolts in torqued them to 30 ft lbs starting at 10 then 20 and finishing with 30 started to put the front acc. on the motor and when i was tightening the front bolt on the e shaft i realized it would no longer spin i backed the tension bolts out and what do you know it spins again there is play in the eccentric shaft not an excessive amount so i pulled the rear rotor put it back together tightened the bolts not to 30 ft lbs but less and it still locks im completely stumped the motor is ripped apart again all cleaned im kinda pissed but its a learning experiencing and i honestly was expecting something like this anyways any help or encouragement is welcome... also if there are any people that have built motors in the cape coral ft myers fl area pm me maybe we can get together and figure this out thanks in advance
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Old May 19, 2011 | 10:27 PM
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From: cape coral
ok i pulled the apex seals and the now stretched out water jacket seals rebuilt the whole motor without apex seals and now its fine no hang ups no nothing any ideas on how the apex seals coulda been hanging up on something?
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Old May 19, 2011 | 10:39 PM
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clearance them,, they may be too long

my first thoughts halfway through reading the post where two scenarios
- if auto rear mass ,, did you use bolts for flywheel that where too long ( they foul the rear stat )
or that you where building a 6 port,, with an early 12a or 13b incorrect front mass
( they foul on the inside of the timing cover on the aux runner unless lipped )
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Old May 19, 2011 | 10:41 PM
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From: cape coral
the apex seals can be to long?
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Old May 19, 2011 | 10:42 PM
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From: cape coral
and no its 5 spd with the flywheel off and front acc off it did the same ****
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Old May 20, 2011 | 06:16 AM
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Did you spec the engine out for warped irons? Or a bent e-shaft?
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Old May 20, 2011 | 10:33 AM
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From: cape coral
gonna be completely honest no i did not but the motor is spinning freely without the apex seals im gonna go ahead and put them back in today and see if maybe its ok
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Old May 20, 2011 | 10:40 AM
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It's pretty important to spec the aluminum rotor housings for warping, especially on an engine that's a question mark.
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Old May 20, 2011 | 12:14 PM
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From: cape coral
the engine had absolute no signs of anything no scoring no chipping no rust it was pretty flawless... heres where im at with apex seals out motor completely together tension bolts and all it spins freely i can turn it over with my hand but as soon as i put the apex seals back in and tighten the tension bolts it locks up if the housing were warped it wouldnt matter cause the rotor wouldnt spin inside the housing correct or do they just get wavy and and would have a low spot to catch on the rotor?
sorry about all the questions just i would rather build this than pay someone to do it thats just how i am....

also where can the housing be taken to be checked if they are warped or not
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Old May 20, 2011 | 12:15 PM
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From: cape coral
i dont see how a warped housing would only come into play with apex seals in the motor it just doesnt make logical sense
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Old May 20, 2011 | 12:20 PM
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no one can help you unless you actually measure and spec everything. your asking for help, people are giving it to you, and your not taking their advice. what do you want us to do? 80% of rebuilding a rotary is specing and checking parts for wear/clearancing seals
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Old May 20, 2011 | 12:24 PM
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From: cape coral
there atkins rotary one piece apex seals if that makes a difference
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Old May 20, 2011 | 12:25 PM
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From: cape coral
i just asked were can i take the housing to get them checked this is my thread i can put my input in to
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Old May 20, 2011 | 01:23 PM
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From: cape coral
ok pulled the rear plate off was spinning the motor when i realized the the rear housing would lift a tiny bit every now and again so i spun it till it just started to lift and realized the rotor was touching the housing ?!?!?!?!? WTF then i grabbed the e shaft and it also has left to right play again wtf bent e shaft or what heres a pic of were its touching sorry about shitty quality


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Old May 20, 2011 | 01:53 PM
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From: cape coral
believe its a warped housing
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Old May 20, 2011 | 02:21 PM
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i believe you should pay someone to build it for you.

oops, you said not to say that..

you shouldn't be able to wiggle the shaft from side to side, telling me you missed something like front stationary gear or a bearing somewhere.

Last edited by RotaryEvolution; May 20, 2011 at 02:25 PM.
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Old May 20, 2011 | 05:09 PM
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Hey, stop name calling when he actually has a valid point. You missed a major problem in your build that is not exactly a normal thing to miss.

I am no engine builder, but even I know that tolerances are a major thing to check. So, really your attitude shows me that you are looking for someone to hold your hand and coddle you, while they tell you what you want to hear. I'm sorry your pride was hurt when someone points out an error, but its the internet and that's what people do.
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Old May 20, 2011 | 05:33 PM
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did you align the rotors to the eshaft and each other properly...?
looks like you haven't...
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Old May 20, 2011 | 08:32 PM
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Pretty much just sounds like your apex seals are too long. If you have a micrometer just measure the length and you should be around 3.144. Just make sure the small piece is even with the large piece when you measure. Its not uncommon to see aftermarket seals too long and carbon seals were always like this.

And grats on building your motor its a learning experience.

One other thing you can check is make sure the bottom of the apex groove is clean meaning there is no carbon buildup.
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Old May 20, 2011 | 08:38 PM
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single piece apex seals, always requires custom clearancing , even in the pic it looks longer than the housing is wide
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Old May 20, 2011 | 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by I fc3SLIDE
ok captain douche bag **** this forum honestly if all you guys are gonna do is bash it and say i missed this and that and not explain yourselves dont waste my time or yours
One more post like this^ and you won't have to worry about this forum because you won't be a part of it any longer.
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Old May 20, 2011 | 11:37 PM
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From: cape coral
ok sorry about the post im not looking for anyone to hold my hand and c"u"ddle me just for help and to be like oh just pay someone to build it for you i appreciate the help and ill check the apex seals tomorrow or monday
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Old May 21, 2011 | 10:36 AM
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From: cape coral
ok so i have this diagnosed it to the front rotor apex seals they are catching in one spot it seems and the also dont feel extremely smooth its probably because of the problem tho... any ideas to what it may be
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Old May 22, 2011 | 12:53 PM
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From: cape coral
ok ive got it narrowed down its the front rotor its catching right at the trailing spark plug hole lmk if this is a common problem thanks
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Old May 22, 2011 | 03:32 PM
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you can see separation of the housing in your pic dude. that is a warped housing thats why its hitting the rotor. just look at your pic it explains it all
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