pick up a straight edge or borrow one and you'll probably figure out that something isn't right, like a warped iron or rotor housing.

if you are using single piece seals then you need to measure each seal's length to see if there is consistency and measure the rotor housing width to be sure that the seals are not longer than the housing is wide(the apex seals will expand and this tolerance will vary depending on the purpose of the engine).

the only other thing i can think of is the front stationary gear bearing is not pressed in properly which is causing the e-shaft to wobble off center.

and don't get pissy about lack of help, it is VERY difficult to diagnose an engine that we do not have our hands onto personally.

 

like i said before i apologize i was just really pissed off when i posted that i think you might be right Karack i had just the front half of the motor together as i tighented the bolts it would get a little harder and start to make a scraping noise i back everything out pulled it apart ran my finger through the rotor bearing that was all good and when i ran my finger through the front stationary gear bearing there was a tiny sliver of metal that came out so im hoping thats it thanks for the help so far... and thats not where the housing is split thats just the old water seal mark

 

That's just residue from the coolant seal/sealant.

 

what he said^^

 

i just dont think triangles are designed to move freely inside an odd shaped oval

 

how i check to see if the stationary gear bearing is in straight i mean it looks straight to me but i know it only takes a fraction of an inch to be completely off

 

got a micrometer housings were 80 all around and so were apex seals so warped housings is out now just waiting on a resonse the the previous question

 

there is no real easy way to tell if the bearings are pressed in straight aside from the bearing sitting flush on all edges.

 

see thats what i thought.... also i was thinking why would it stop turning only when the motor is tight?

 

That tiny sliver of metal you found is probably from pressing in the bearing, assuming you pressed new ones in.

The way you measured the rotor housings is not enough to ensure theyre not warped, the FSM has a very specific way to check them, with four measurement points.

 

Did this engine turn over alright when you first bought it?? Assuming it was still assembled of course.


To me it sounds like the Eshaft is bent.. If that was the case though you sure would think you would see evidence of that damage on the rotor housing.

You do have the front stationary gear installed when your trying to turn it over correct? If it is out the rotor will bind into the rotor housing, same goes for if you have the rear assembled and no stationary gear installed, the rotor will bind. I know this from experience

 

yea your right at a second look thats what it is lol.

 

the motor was never assembled i did check the four points that you are supposed to the top by the intake port then the 3 under the spark plug hole where its the hottest

new bearings were not pressed in

how do i check the eshaft to see if it is bent??

the motor was shipped over from japan disassembled...

staionary gear is installed i might also be able to get another e shaft for free but we will have to see im supposed to be getting a clutch and and flywheel assembly from a friend who has a junk t2 motor i might be able to pull it out of which did run he just lost compression

 

There's no way that your housings were 80MM all the way around. After a few yeas in use the housing will tend to shrink and stretch in various locations. For example, around the combustion area they will always shrink.

You need to measure everything, pure and simple. The FSM contains detailed instructions on how to verify dimensions. All you need is a set of feeler gauges, and an inside and outside micrometer, and a set of calipers.

Check the width of the rotors. Maybe the gears have "walked" out a little.

Any crunching or uneven tightening of bolts when assembling is bad. Did you clean everything? That housing picture you posted doesn't look very clean to me (or at least not clean to my standards).

 

ill go out a get some measuring tools today but the housings were damn near close to perfect and are you talking about the gears on the rotors themselves?

 

lol wtf

 

as a last resort i would find another e-shaft and see if it has the same issue. although i have never seen one bent personally and it would take alot for it to be damaged outside of the engine, if it came from another engine that failed then there should be evidence that the shaft was damaged/bent by scuff marks on the rotors/housings with worn bearings.

an engine machine shop can tell you if the main shaft is bent also.

 

thanks i might run it to a machine shop the motor that the e shaft came from was supposedly a stock motor so i dont see how it could of gotten bent? but will see

 

Okay, you said the rotor housings and apex seals are all 80mm. Well they can't be exactly 80.000mm even new parts are off by hundredths of a mm.

1. What is your apex seal to side housing clearance for each housing? ? Take the rotor housing width from the top of the housing and subtract the length of the apex seal from it = clearance.

2. What is your rotor to rotor housing clearance for each rotor & housing pair? Subtract widest rotor width from narrowest rotor housing width = clearance.

3. Get a bore micrometer and measure the I.D. of every bearing.

4. Did a bearing walk?

5. Watch the Mazdatrix DVD, it's much better.

 

nicley stated Brad, SPEC the engine first...............you will find the problem

 

No. I meant coddle.

Next time try a dictionary.

Here ya go:
cod·dle/ˈkädl/Verb
Treat in an indulgent or overprotective way:

 

drive fast thank you very much thats all i really needed to hear just some basic how tos on how to spec everything out greatly appreciated and forget the dictionary

 

first thing you should have done was taken all the main parts housings shaft and rotors and had them mesured and checked by a machine shop.

i build engines all day long thats my job and the amount of customers that phone up and say they did this and that and most of the time it comes down to things wernt checked.

a machine shop would have been able to take the serface of the housings and take about .010 off the sides and make them perfectly flat.

it dosnt cost much at machine shops garages charge **** loads for this but the machine shops dont

for e.g. i get charged 80 for a head to be skimmed and new valve seals and all valves reround, we charge £250 for the head.

we get charged £120 for a reground crank and bigs mains and thrust we sell them at £450

it costs me just under £600 to build an engine we charge £1000-2000 depending on the engine size but all engine cost same to build.

so my advice find a local machine shop have everything checked let them do the hard work of mesuring every thing they can always machine everything to perfect match to.

 

well, i wouldn't take everything in a box to a machine shop. most machine shops will see a rotary in a box and tell you to get lost. asking them to spec out a couple of pieces at a time will probably get you better results. remember that almost all machine shops are focused strictly towards pistons.

 

yer would agree most dont even like doing most jobs but a rotary specalist would prob be half happy if you asked them where they got machine work done and would tell you. or at least spec stuff out for you.

unless you know exactly what your doing as far as spec stuff its always good to ask around garages or machine shops. once you find the right places to look you get results or as you say take down odd parts to be messured

but any decent machine shop will tuch most things and you can also tell by just turning up and talking to people at machine shops. in the last 6 months ive use 4 machine shops sence we move to find the right one.