MtnRacer

I have a TII which basically did a 180 and hit a curb. The left rear wheel has about 30 degrees of positive camber, what kind of damage can I expect? I'm by no means an expert mechanic, so I'm worried that when I pull it apart, I won't be able to tell what's salvageable and what's not. What most likely gave out? The impact was at 35 mph, the strut is probably bent, but what about the halfshaft or the LSD? Anything else? Thanks guys!

Steve

MtnRacer

No love?

Steve

Rs4Racer

if your body is straight you could just get another rear sub chassis.
i think at the scrap yard they are probable like 400?
just a guestimate

oh yah plus i bet you need a new wheel and tire

peejay

you can't really tell without seeing it in person. i used to get all the suspension damage work, people would curb their cars and you'd be amazed what can get bent and what can hold up.

guaranteed you've toasted the control arm. the shock actually might have survived, because of the way it mounts, but can't tell from here. need to compare it real hard to the other side. the bearing and sub-knuckle (what the hell would you call it) are probably damaged, but the easiest thing would be to get the whole control arm assembly (all the way out to the rotors) as an assembly from the boneyard. toe control link possibly bent too.

now. the fun part. you HAVE to support the car and get under it and spend a lot of time just looking at all of the suspension mounting points making sure things look the same on both sides of the car. rx4racer's suggestion might be the best one, just replace the while subframe assembly. i've never seen a hurt FC before but on a lot of cars it's common for the subframe to be damaged easily in a curbing.

sometimes the body is physically twisted, too. i bent my SA sliding forwards into a curb, control arms and everythinjg were fine but the caster angle was far out of whack due to the front body being shoved around like flexing a cardboard box. but the suspension wasn't bent at all.

if the car can roll under its own power (i suspect that it's not 30 degrees, if it was that far then the top of the tire would be completely outside the wheelwell!) and doesn't make any ugly driveline-sounding vibrations then the ale and diff are probably OK. however it is very possible that the body of the car has been bent as well as the suspension.

in short, get the car to a body shop where they can measure the car every which way to determine the extent of the damage.

MtnRacer

Actually, the car's been totalled. What I'm trying to do is figure out what's salvageable from the tII driveline, because I'm going to swap it to an NA chassis. So really(I think) the halfshafts and diff are all I want from the car. Your description of the car rolling under its own power is encouraging, however, because it does do that, without any terrible noises or vibrations. I'm not entirely sure what's different between an FC Turbo's driveline from the Differential out to the brake rotor, but I "think" it's just the Diff itself, and the halfshafts. This is all very encouraging. Eventually, my mechanic friend will be able to come out to help me pull it apart, and hopefully he'll be able to tell if I need new half shafts or anything like that. Thanks very much guys, this helps me get a better idea of what I'm going to be facing.

Steve

elistan

Hey, i did almost the same thing in my 88' supra turbo a few years back. Hit a curb cracked my rim, and cracked the rear knuckle. I think i was lucky cause i swerved to miss a deer and the back end broke loose at 60 and smacked the curb. My wheel was about 30 degreese also, and i limped it the 1/2 mile home. Good luck with your t2

peejay

Yes, diff and halfshafts are all that's really different rearend-wise... don't bother trying to same the rear hubs for a 5-lug conversion because if you smacked that badly, the bearings at a minimum are trashed and i've seen hubs get tweaked also.

Oh well, if there's any good, it's that the work is always fun when you don't have to put back together what you're taking apart!