I just got my 2nd gen n/a back from the dealership. Car was flooded and even after I did all flooding procedures I could not get it started again. My local dealership got it started an only charged me 65 bucks (pretty good by their standards). The did a compression check and got back these results. #1 rotor 7.0 6.8 7.0 - #2 rotor 6.2 6.3 6.5. The then suggested a new engine with those numbers. Do I need a new engine? How long could it run with numbers like these? Any suggestions?

Thanks

 

I drove a car that had 25psi compression with no problems.

It sounds more like your injectors may be leaking. Also, how well does the starter turn the engine over? A slow starter makes flooding easier.

 

Car usualy starts right up. I just moved it a short distance when it was cold and I think that caused the flooding. I just wonder about the lifetime on this engine.

 

BS to the dealer. That car should run for a long time still provided that it doesn't flood too much and annoy you to death.

 

I have a similiar situation:

FD runs great all day long! perfect boost etc.
However on hot days, after parking for a bit and the engine heat soaking, it has a hard time to start. This happens sporadically, not all the time, sometimes it does start when hot...

Well i do have low compression #'s after taking it to the dealer, and they also recommend a new engine:
#1 Rotor = 5.5/5.6/5.8
#2 Rotor = 6.3/6.6/6.8
W/131,000 miles.

When hot the car turns, and sounds like it wants to start...but in the end, when it is supposed to start, it just quits. If i give it a little gas at the end, that sometimes starts it up. Usually i'll just wait till it cools off for fear of flooding. Would the ATF trick be worth a try at raising compression

Anyhow i'm scheduling a appointment at Pineapple Racing for a rebuild, better now while it runs than later, right!

laters,
Edgardo

 

Those numbers are definitely on the bubble, but your hot start problem might be something unrelated. Maybe you should take the car to a rotary expert (NOT a dealer) and see what they say. There was a TSB regarding hard restarts when hot:

APPLICABLE MODELS/VINS
----------------------
1993 RX-7

Automatic transmission vehicles with a VIN of JM1FD***P0200001 through
JM1FD3***P0210498.

DESCRIPTION
-----------
Hard restart after running the vehicle at high speeds on hot days. Vehicle
restarts easily after engine compartment cools down.
This hard start condition is caused when heat from the engine increases the
electrical resistance in the starter wire. This decreases the amount of
current received at the "S" terminal on the starter.

To correct this problem, the starter harness length has been changed and the
amount of current applied to the "S" terminal during starting increased.

REPAIR PROCEDURE
----------------
If the condition exists, install the countermeasure starter wire harness.
1. Disconnect the vehicle battery.
2. Raise the vehicle on a hoist or raise the front end with ramps.
3. Disconnect the connectors at the starter.

[Picture showing where to disconnect the harness]

4. Connect countermeasure harness FDY1 67 SH0 as shown.

[Picture showing where the new harness fits in]

5. Tape off the OEM starter solenoid wire. Secure countermeasure harness
with 4 tie-wraps E018 67C92. Confirm there is no interference between
the brake and fuel lines.

[Picture showing where to install the tie-wraps]

PARTS INFORMATION
-----------------
PART NUMBER: FDY1 67 SH0
DESCRIPTION: Starter Wire Harness
QTY: 1

PART NUMBER: E018 67 C92
DESCRIPTION: Tie-Wrap
QTY: 4

WARRANTY INFORMATION (Applies to vehicles covered under warranty)
--------------------
Warranty Type Code: A
Customer Comment Code: 02
Damage Code: 99
Part No. of Main Cause: FDY1 67 SH0
Operation No.: XX0568RX
Labor Hours: 0.4 Hrs.

So you might want to check that out. If thats the problem or its something else, then I'd just keep driving it until it until it blows. Who knows it could go anotehr 20k miles. Unless you have newer turbos, the motor and turbos are already so old you're going to need new housings and turbos anyway when you rebuild it.

 

Problem is the original poster has an FC NA...


-Ted

 

What about no compression? What can you do to get something like that to start?

Rotor2 has has 2 low bumps and 1 high bump on the compression gauge. The low bumps are around 5psi and the high bump around 20psi.

Rotor1 has all low bumps around 3 psi each.

This engine had 135psi per rotor all three apex seals about 6months ago. It sat in the rain, got a little rusty. I oiled it and got it turning but now it has no compression. I had rinsed out the oil with gasoline. What happened?

Can I get this thing to run by adding ATF? I think the apex /side /corner seals are sticking from rusty/ corrosion and once it starts they'll Free Up.

Anyone done this before?

thanks!
Dave