Best 13B engine builder in TX
03-18-12, 01:30 AM
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Best 13B engine builder in TX
I have a blown 13b engine and wanted to rebuild it. Who is the best person to take it to and have the apex seals upgraded to 3mm and do a street port in Texas?
03-21-12, 02:37 PM
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Honestly, Rotary performance is overpriced and kind of stuck in the past when it comes to builds. A lot of remarked Chinese eBay **** is sold by them as their own products with 3x the price tag. I like the people there, and they will give you their best advice, but if you are looking to make a high hp rx7, they are not the shop to do it...
Just curious, why would you want 3mm apex seals? They don't seal as well and if you hit major detonation on either 2 or 3mm seals are going to fail. If something fails that is going to take out seals, it will happen. 3mm seals seem to have become the band-aid solution for poor tuning as they will take more "abuse", but if it was built/tuned correctly in the first place they are not needed or desirable. Also, 3mm seals= more engine wear. Get a competent tuner and a good set of 2mm apex seals and you will be better off. 3mm seals are a downgrade, not an upgrade...
03-21-12, 07:12 PM
#6
i used to think like you, not anymore.
the key weakpoint to these engines is the apex seals and the coolant seals. which do you think can handle more abuse before breaking by sacrificing a few miles on the engine, 2mm or 3mm?
just about every person on this forum has experienced apex seal failure, we know it, we know it sucks. if you haven't, it's just a matter of time. when a repeat failure costs you, you will understand these minor differences very well.
i still use 2mm seals in builds, but above 400whp i do not recommend 2mm seals.
for different applications there is seals that suit some builds better than others.
the key weakpoint to these engines is the apex seals and the coolant seals. which do you think can handle more abuse before breaking by sacrificing a few miles on the engine, 2mm or 3mm?
just about every person on this forum has experienced apex seal failure, we know it, we know it sucks. if you haven't, it's just a matter of time. when a repeat failure costs you, you will understand these minor differences very well.
i still use 2mm seals in builds, but above 400whp i do not recommend 2mm seals.
for different applications there is seals that suit some builds better than others.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 03-21-12 at 07:17 PM.
03-21-12, 08:02 PM
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Honestly, Rotary performance is overpriced and kind of stuck in the past when it comes to builds. A lot of remarked Chinese eBay **** is sold by them as their own products with 3x the price tag. I like the people there, and they will give you their best advice, but if you are looking to make a high hp rx7, they are not the shop to do it...
Just curious, why would you want 3mm apex seals? They don't seal as well and if you hit major detonation on either 2 or 3mm seals are going to fail. If something fails that is going to take out seals, it will happen. 3mm seals seem to have become the band-aid solution for poor tuning as they will take more "abuse", but if it was built/tuned correctly in the first place they are not needed or desirable. Also, 3mm seals= more engine wear. Get a competent tuner and a good set of 2mm apex seals and you will be better off. 3mm seals are a downgrade, not an upgrade...
Just curious, why would you want 3mm apex seals? They don't seal as well and if you hit major detonation on either 2 or 3mm seals are going to fail. If something fails that is going to take out seals, it will happen. 3mm seals seem to have become the band-aid solution for poor tuning as they will take more "abuse", but if it was built/tuned correctly in the first place they are not needed or desirable. Also, 3mm seals= more engine wear. Get a competent tuner and a good set of 2mm apex seals and you will be better off. 3mm seals are a downgrade, not an upgrade...
ohh right
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03-21-12, 09:13 PM
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Above 400ish rwhp we go with RA or ALS. Always 2mm, never 3mm unless in a few instances. I don't think any potential benefit outweighs the downside.
With the use of water injection and these 'new age' seals I just can't see any good reason to use 3mm apex seals.
With the use of water injection and these 'new age' seals I just can't see any good reason to use 3mm apex seals.
03-21-12, 09:54 PM
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As cheifbon has pointed out, they don't like water/meth. I have said many times before that any "reputable shop" is misinformed or just idiotic not to recommend aux injection. Anyone who has been around rotaries for any amount of times knows that carbon buildup is a major issue with rotaries and that water/meth keeps the engine clean.
Karack, maybe you should stop being a fanboy of the seals you sell if they can't stay reliable over 400whp... That's truly pathetic that you can't recommend a 2mm seal at 500hp because of strength.
03-21-12, 11:59 PM
#12
Honestly, Rotary performance is overpriced and kind of stuck in the past when it comes to builds. A lot of remarked Chinese eBay **** is sold by them as their own products with 3x the price tag. I like the people there, and they will give you their best advice, but if you are looking to make a high hp rx7, they are not the shop to do it...
Just curious, why would you want 3mm apex seals? They don't seal as well and if you hit major detonation on either 2 or 3mm seals are going to fail. If something fails that is going to take out seals, it will happen. 3mm seals seem to have become the band-aid solution for poor tuning as they will take more "abuse", but if it was built/tuned correctly in the first place they are not needed or desirable. Also, 3mm seals= more engine wear. Get a competent tuner and a good set of 2mm apex seals and you will be better off. 3mm seals are a downgrade, not an upgrade...
Just curious, why would you want 3mm apex seals? They don't seal as well and if you hit major detonation on either 2 or 3mm seals are going to fail. If something fails that is going to take out seals, it will happen. 3mm seals seem to have become the band-aid solution for poor tuning as they will take more "abuse", but if it was built/tuned correctly in the first place they are not needed or desirable. Also, 3mm seals= more engine wear. Get a competent tuner and a good set of 2mm apex seals and you will be better off. 3mm seals are a downgrade, not an upgrade...
RP done/proved what they can build years ago, With old technology.
3mm apex seals a downgrade = more wear? How did you come up with that?
A little blast from the past for all the newbies in here.
http://youtu.be/18DLEU9lrmA
03-22-12, 06:25 AM
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03-22-12, 01:05 PM
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I disagree with most of your posting, I would like you to show us a Chinese item sold by them that cost triple the money?
RP done/proved what they can build years ago, With old technology.
3mm apex seals a downgrade = more wear? How did you come up with that?
A little blast from the past for all the newbies in here.
http://youtu.be/18DLEU9lrmA
RP done/proved what they can build years ago, With old technology.
3mm apex seals a downgrade = more wear? How did you come up with that?
A little blast from the past for all the newbies in here.
http://youtu.be/18DLEU9lrmA
I have been to Texas motorplex when they ran their car at pinks all out qualifying a long time ago. It is fast, although I already said that in an earlier post. Go ask them if they can build a 700hp fd for the streets... They pretty much told my friend it isn't possible during his build. (needed random misc item there and they had them locally)
Here is one example of a product I bought off of ebay for $40 shipped on their site:
Here’s a great way to make a subtle improvement to any 1993-95 RX-7. These turn signal lamps kits give a more modern look for the front end. They are sold in pairs and include bulbs and a direct connect wiring harness. Available in either crystal clear lens or lightly smoked. NOTE: Fits only 93-95 style front spoiler assemblies and aftermarket front spoiler assemblies that use the stock 93-95 turnlamps.
FD Turnlamps – Clear
Price: $148.95
FD Turnlamps – Clear
Price: $148.95
The Bönez Racing Main Cat Pipe replaces the restrictive catalytic converter for significant power gains and increased engine and turbo life. Constructed with 3" heavy duty mild or stainless steel that is mandrel bent for maximum flow, this pipe bolts up in a few minutes. It connects from the stock precat to the stock cat-back exhaust and is also compatible with aftermarket downpipes and cat-back exhausts. Note: Racing use ONLY! Not for street use.
Bönez 3" Stainless Steel Main Cat Pipe
Price: $235.00 $199.75
Bönez 3" Stainless Steel Main Cat Pipe
Price: $235.00 $199.75
When upgrading your brake system, consider the benefits of RP D.O.T. legal braided stainless steel brake lines. Because the construction of these lines are far superior to original equipment, they will not crack, split or burst. Upgrading to the RP Stainless Steel brake lines will greatly improve brake feel and response.
These stainless steel brake lines are built to install in the exact same manner as the stock lines so no special tools or installation procedures are required.
RP Stainless Steel D.O.T. Lines
Price: $130.00
These stainless steel brake lines are built to install in the exact same manner as the stock lines so no special tools or installation procedures are required.
RP Stainless Steel D.O.T. Lines
Price: $130.00
But seriously, why are you so butthurt over someone explaining the problem with RP? I don't know about you, but wanting $20k for a 400-450whp build is highway robbery when it can be done with better parts and labor for less money.
Last edited by GoodfellaFD3S; 03-22-12 at 02:10 PM.
03-22-12, 01:21 PM
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Then you do not want to use rotary performance. You might be better off with an independent mechanic at that level that really knows what they are doing, or some of the non-Texas shops that pump out really high hp rotaries.
What is your budget for the build and what is the starting point? If the car is almost stock you are going to need to spend a great deal of money on it as many of us have learned that while the engine is simple, the supporting parts add up very quickly and little will be left untouched at that level of power. Turbo setup, cooling system, ignition, ecu, drive-train, and fueling system are just some of what needs to be upgraded.
What is your budget for the build and what is the starting point? If the car is almost stock you are going to need to spend a great deal of money on it as many of us have learned that while the engine is simple, the supporting parts add up very quickly and little will be left untouched at that level of power. Turbo setup, cooling system, ignition, ecu, drive-train, and fueling system are just some of what needs to be upgraded.
03-22-12, 03:41 PM
#17
I am not here to argue with you, A business don't stay open for nearly 20 years selling poor quality parts. Maybe you are butt hurt with the 20k estimate that was given to your friend.
To the OP, Do your research and look for results not hype, Beware of bench-top builders/advise or people chasing big whp numbers. Have a great day.
To the OP, Do your research and look for results not hype, Beware of bench-top builders/advise or people chasing big whp numbers. Have a great day.
03-22-12, 04:12 PM
#18
I disagree with most of your posting, I would like you to show us a Chinese item sold by them that cost triple the money?
RP done/proved what they can build years ago, With old technology.
3mm apex seals a downgrade = more wear? How did you come up with that?
A little blast from the past for all the newbies in here.
RP done/proved what they can build years ago, With old technology.
3mm apex seals a downgrade = more wear? How did you come up with that?
A little blast from the past for all the newbies in here.
****..... these kids dont know what a 9.15 even means!
Last edited by GoodfellaFD3S; 03-22-12 at 09:30 PM.
03-22-12, 11:46 PM
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Go ask them if they can build a 700hp fd for the streets... They pretty much told my friend it isn't possible during his build. (needed random misc item there and they had them locally)
Here is one example of a product I bought off of ebay for $40 shipped on their site:
Heres another... Just look for Bonez in the name and it is Chinese crap... Sorry to rain on your parade
Lets not forget brake lines
If anybody wants them I picked up a set and will get rid of them for $80+ shipping... They are new, but chinese though
Here is one example of a product I bought off of ebay for $40 shipped on their site:
Heres another... Just look for Bonez in the name and it is Chinese crap... Sorry to rain on your parade
Lets not forget brake lines
If anybody wants them I picked up a set and will get rid of them for $80+ shipping... They are new, but chinese though
rcracer_tx,
I haven't been on the forum in a long, long while, probably because of nonsense like this. A racer friend sent me the link and I decided to respond. I recognize that I may be making am mistake by posting this because I will not get drawn into a fight on the forum with you or anyone.
I wanted to address some of the issues that you brought up in a couple of your earlier posts...
Rotary performance is overpriced - Maybe so... That point is hard to argue. When dealing with service you rarely compare apples to apples, every shop is different. One guy may charge $250 for tuning and another $500. Which one is overpriced? I believe that the answer would be - the one who tuned the engine that broke first.
A lot of remarked Chinese eBay **** is sold by them as their own products - I can't agree with you on that one... I believe the turnlamps that you mentioned are actually made in Taiwan (there are no US or Japan vendors for those). We get them from a distributor in CA and pay a lot more than $40 for them. If you found the identical product on Ebay for $40, congratulations. If you found a similar appearing item, you're comparing apples with oranges again. The midpipes and downpipes are built in the United States. The brake lines and clutch lines are US built also. The suspension links that we offer are actually machined in the Dallas area. You will not find any of those items on ebay. If you got brake likes from us, they are not possibly Chinese. If you're not happy with the brake like you picked up, just come back by and return them for a full refund. We've been here for almost 24 years because we care for our customers. Bonez is actually a not a Chinese brand, it's from Texas.
Go ask them if they can build a 700hp fd for the streets... They pretty much told my friend it isn't possible during his build. - I partly agree with this statement. It may be possible but we can not build a 700HP FD for the street. We warranty our work for 12 months and have not found the combination that would survive the abuse of daily driving on pump gas at 700HP. Someone else might be able to, we can not.
The original post was asking for help. Someone was simply looking for a referral to get an engine fixed. For some reason you turned into an all out attack on Rotary performance. I read all your posts and didn't notice you offering a single referral of where he can take his car to. You seem to have a serious agenda against Rotary Performance.
If something bad happened, if you're not happy with a part you picked up or service that you received, please call me. My name is Ari and I can be reached at 972-530-3335. I'd like to help resolve the issue. There's no reason to go through life carrying that kind of burden.
God bless.
03-23-12, 11:25 AM
#23
"Elusive, not deceptive!”
A little story about Ari's RP engines.
A friend of mind, Mark White, aka "Mark 57" liked his RP engine so much that he bought a spare just in case.
Mark was a real Rotor Head and loved to get the most out of his beloved car. Because he had ALS (Lou Gehrig's Disease) he had no problem
pushing the envelope. If an engine didn't last as long as he did.... so what!
I was very conservative but he just wanted to keep tuning. We did literally over one hundred 3rd pulls tuning his car.
One night Jonathan and Mark even did a pull to over 190.
The car belongs to another friend now... Same engine... we never needed the spare.
Yes, Ari builds good engines.
Barry Bordes
A friend of mind, Mark White, aka "Mark 57" liked his RP engine so much that he bought a spare just in case.
Mark was a real Rotor Head and loved to get the most out of his beloved car. Because he had ALS (Lou Gehrig's Disease) he had no problem
pushing the envelope. If an engine didn't last as long as he did.... so what!
I was very conservative but he just wanted to keep tuning. We did literally over one hundred 3rd pulls tuning his car.
One night Jonathan and Mark even did a pull to over 190.
The car belongs to another friend now... Same engine... we never needed the spare.
Yes, Ari builds good engines.
Barry Bordes
03-23-12, 12:49 PM
#25
the mazda zoom zoom store
I agree with this, 2mm seals can support 600hp. I made 624 @24lbs on full bridge