My 1988 rx7 non-aspirated, is pushing coolant back out of the overflow. I replaced the thermostat and even radiator but no success. The engine runs fine and never really runs hot until I start to stop and go. As long as I'm on the highway it seems to cool fine. I was told the coolant seals were gone causing compression to back thru the cooling system. Any quick fix for this, other than a rebuild.

 

can u hold the fan with the engine running? replace the fan clutch.

 

Dont try that you'll lose your fingers, If its fine on the highway, it is the fan clutch! remove that fan and install an electric fan

 

or replace the fan clutch because it works just as good if not better then a efan

 

But, you gain useful HP by revoving the parasitic drag of a engine driven fan

 

WOULD A FAULTY FAN/CLUTCH PUSH COOLANT OUT OF THE RADIATOR AND PUT PRESSURE ON THE TOP HOSE? WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO CHECK THE FAN CLUTCH? WHAT IS THIS I HEAR ABOUT INTERNAL COOLING SEAL ON THE ROTARY ENGINE? SOMETHING ABOUT COMPRESSION ESCAPING INTO THE COOLANT FLOW, CAUSING THE OVERHEATING MODE, SIMILAR TO THE "BLOWN HEADGASKET THEORY"! BUT WE ALL KNOW ROTARIES DONT HAVE HEADS....

 

yes it will, the hot fluid is expanding, if you think its a blown water seal allowing combution pressure into the rad., let it cool down, remove the rad. cap, start the car and let it idle for 15 minutes or so, then look in the radiator for bubbling in the coolant as it flows. There should be none. AS for the fan after you do the first step shut the car off, then spin the fan by hand (car OFF!) there should be resistance to movement

 

Don't think because you can stop the clutch fan while the motor is running that its buggered. I can nearly always stop my fan whether its just started or been running for a while. The clutch only engages when it gets to a certain temp. I took it to a rotary shop and they showed me that when you rev the motor for a bit and it gets hotter, u can see and hear the fan cutting in, and it was working fine. My fan works so well it sucks the shroud around the radiator close to it.

 

Hey there Carlos...I have the exact same problems and symptoms that your car has. I too have heard that it could possibly be the failure of the internal coolant seals. Intsead of running out and rebuilding my engine, I recently did a visual inspection of the coolant components and was surprised to to have found something very interesting. I could visually see that the water pump gasket had a very slight leak...very slight.... Also...I found the gasket/s to the water pump manifold to be in very bad condition. There is lots of crustified antifreeze along the edge of the manifold gasket; engine side...and it looks pretty fresh and seems to have collected over a quite amount of time. Replacements gaskets for the water pump and the water pump manifold cost app. 15.00 through mazda. If it turns out to be the internal seals, I have heard that a good coolant flush and a stronger mixture of antifreeze may help to reduce the problem by reconditioning the internal seals. I plan on applying both to my car very soon. I will write back to let you know of the outcome... keep er running...

 

How old is your coolant? It will break down over time and will boil over sooner and thus not cool as well.

If you're in there mucking with the fans and such anyway, change the coolant while you're at it. Don't forget to cut it with some water.

 

2Revolving-Deltaz: Please let me know what you come up with. In the meantime I'm going to try the same thing. You are right, I can see coolant leaking from the water pump area, also.

 

and you put more load on the alternator, taking all of it away.

although, since the e-fan isn't running all the time, it does work slightly more efficiently.