any body use these?
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/oil_in...p_adaptors.htm

do you have pics of your set up?

i want to run these really bad, but dont want a big ugly container sitting there.

lets see what you got !

 

I will take a pic and let you see my setup when I get home.......

 

I modified the MOP to do the same thing, there is a thread somewhere

 

tig welded with miller a aerowave. just make sure to drill 1/8" hole in whatever cap you use if its not vented. it will cause suction and bubbles in the lines if you don't have it vented. Holds 1.2 gallons.

 

Oil injection tank located right behind t-stat cover. Nice high location for gravity feed and holds a quart of nice clean Amsoil 2 stoke oil..

 

still not a replacement for premix.

 

I previously pre-mixed for around 4 years. This may not be as effective as premix, but it is more effective than injecting engine oil, and the convenience of this setup is too hard for me to ignore. I see it as a happy medium. I no longer feel like my car needs constant attention, no more worrying about ratios no more mess no math no paying extra for the less messy little bottles than buying the gallons.. so on. Its out of sight and out of mind. I don't need to top the reservoir off until the engine oil needs changed every 3 thousand miles. When i know I'm going to be running the car hard for extended periods of time THEN I premix in addition to this.

as to bah2733 it doesn't need to be gravity fed at all, but a high location does make it easy to top off.

 

i only said that because the injectors are placed in such a position that it lubricates the center area of the seal temporarily and then the lubrication is directly dumped out the exhaust port.

the cooling effect of the lubrication actually INCREASES wear in the center area of the rotor housings.

if you follow the pics top to bottom you can see some of the differences. the pictures at the top of the thread are from a later model 13B engine and clearly shows the wear line from the OMP on the apex seal. the next set of pictures are from earlier model engines with oil injected at the carb and mixed with the fuel before entering the engine, the wear is more even across the board as well as all premixed engines i have torn apart. the early model 13B housings(REPU) were still running the crappy crankcase oil for the OMP and 3mm seals which attribute to the chatter lines.

https://www.rx7club.com/vendor-classifieds-276/rotor-housing-resurfacing-services-957625/

premixing oil with the fuel, the oil touches just about everything inside the chamber before exiting the exhaust versus just tabbed in front of the middle of the apex seal taking a short ride.

 

Karack, what ratio do you recommend for premixing? With or without omp?

 

.5oz per gallon of fuel with OMP and 1oz per gallon with no OMP.

 

How did you arrive at 1/8th? I have a small vent hole in my cap but it's pretty small.

 

For the OP: http://www.reganrotaryracing.com/fd2stroke.htm

Karack,
Re: your suggested premix amounts - 1 oz per gallon is a boatload of oil. I'd submit that the amount to be added are subject to the operating environment and many, many factors. Boosted vs unboosted - and then by just how much, street vs track, 2mm vs 3mm seals, normal operating rpm range, model year, etc. High revving NA race car - pour it in baby! Stop and go low RPM daily driver...probably not such a good idea nor necessary. Too much oil and you may have housings that don't wear as fast but you bugger up everything else in the system not to mention having to live with a car that might smoke like a mosquito fogger. I'm just sayin'...
BTW love the housing refurb that guys like you are doing now.

Regards,
Crispy

 

I have a mechanical pump adapter if anyone wants it for 75 shipped

PS I also have a pretty cool custom tank etc.... I'll post up some pictures when I get a chance.

 

of course it's subject to argument from any angle, many people have had success with different ratios but i have never ran into any real issues from running 1oz per gallon in the dozen years i have been building these engines, nor have my customers. it perhaps can foul plugs easier but in the case of carbon buildup i haven't seen any issue of it with 2 stroke oil versus crank oil(even heavy on 2 stroke there hasn't been much carbon buildup).

i guess i just haven't seen any issue so far with being a bit heavy handed with the oil but it is a starting point and you can subtract some from there. being a builder it's generally best to be on the safe side of things.

i have also run without any internal lubrication for periods of time in my daily TII, the results were actually an increase in compression but i am quite sure the apex seals wore more rapidly. i have yet to tear it apart though to see the results. but i'm calling BS that it will trash an engine in as little as a thousand miles or so, i put that many on my engine with no OMP and no premix but that was out of my own curiosity to test, not something i would recommend. keeping in mind the housings i have in that engine now have close to 175k on them at twice the stock power level, so not worried if they wind up turning to scrap.

thanks for the comment on the housings, i'm going to be talking to the plating shops in the next few days to see if it can go a step further.

 

^ Roger that. Just poking you to see what the basis was. I've run premix in my NA racecar at the ratio's you suggested, premix AND OMP added oil in my FDstreet/track car and only suggested there may be...repeat may be a threshold where too much of a good thing might be bad. It's really hard to gauge the effects of oil lubrication since I doubt very much that any given "street engine" has seen consistent application over a given time period...and I'm talking 100k miles to really show the effects. IMHO of course. A short lived race or track engine that is torn down regularly perhaps.
Interesting note on the no-premix. I'd suggest that the increase in compression is from the apex seals basically regrinding a new surface that will give you a bump in compression. probably shortlived though just perhaps not at 1000miles, eh?

My 2 cents for the general population...a little premix wouldn't hurt.
Regards,
crispy

 

I meant 1/16th my bad. and because its the smallest bit I had

 

You can also increase the oil delivery of the MOP by adding a washer or two on the rod at the pump lever. When at idle I disconnected the throttle body connecting rod at the MOP and while raising the lever, the feed rate increased. This was immediately after installation with new lines, before all the air was worked out of the lines. I could visibly see air bubbles moving faster as I raised the MOP lever. This was surprising because I was told at idle there is no oil "injected" by this system.

 

I am def going to do this mod this winter... I would hate to have to premix my gas... and if I am going to go to the track or something ill premix but just road trips no thanks..

 

I've wanted to do this mod for a while, but my fc simply won't allow this to become a priority, lol (starter died 2 days ago after 24 years in services).

My omp has been rebuilt and works prefect , and I premix when I go on long trips (200:1) or plan to go drift or auto x (100:1). I plan to incorporate this into my next build if I can figure out a way to make it work w/the fd uim.