Aight...was washing the car the other day aand took it for a quick spin to air dry it...put it in the driveway to wax and clean, tried to start....and nothing...so i get oline to my truty peeps at this website..got the links and the studying done...did the three step process and pulled the cgi fuse out and cranked for 20 secs...put it back in and after about ten tries and killing the battery i got it started. Damn thing smoked like it was gonna get empysema....and after that it was cool......changed the oil but now it still floods somewhat i think...now everytime i start it hesistates, and still i have to pulll the fuse 3 step process and it goes again...so what the hell and why is it still doing this, also when i changed the oil it seemed like there was water underneath the cap, or loooked a hell of alot like water, even tasted it and it was pretty bland like water, now it seems if it was fuel diluted oil it would have a taste to it.........i also had washed the engine bay the day it flooded really bas, could that have anything to do with it and i wasnt really having this problem before except when i started it would usually drop revs right at first and die unless i gassed it for about a sec to remind it to stay up, it would also smoke bit......any advice, or is this normal after a bad flood??

 

Never crank than engine for that long; you'll overheat and damage the starter motor. 5-10 seconds is all that's required, and shouldn't be exceeded. If you need to crank it more, let cool for 30 seconds between attempts. Make sure you hold the throttle fully open while cranking or you'll just move the excess fuel around in the engine instead of clearing it out. A fuel pump switch also makes this process a lot easier.

I don't know why the flooding has suddenly started, but low compression and/or dirty injectors are the usual suspects.

 

Let me chime in here. I had an '87 TII with good compression AND cleaned/rebuilt injectors and it would flood all the time (well....only on hot starts after sitting for 1/2 hour or so). I tried EVERYTHING, new temp. sensors, tune up, injectors, timing, grounding this and that, etc. etc. . The only thing that "solved" the problem was using a fuel pump cut switch. Maybe the injectors were still leaking but it's hard to tell. Anyway....install the switch.

Todd

 

If you really did have good compression and cleaned or new fuel injectors, did you check the transister in the ECU that sometimes fails??? (ususally about 5% of the cases of flooding).

 

If you are talking about the transistor for the BAC valve, it was bad and I replaced it. The BAC worked perfectly after that but the car still flooded. Is there another related transistor? If so.....why am I just now hearing about it?

Todd

 

mine used to flood all the time, not as much anymore, either way, I had www.marvelspeed.com do a custom fuel cut switch that works great everytime.

Good luck with it.

-Marshall

 

I don't remember which one it's right this second, but I'd try another ECU myself.

I'll see if I can find my write up on which ones to replace and post it later.

 

I know when you get your injectors cleaned, balanced, and blue printed, it does not solve your (leaky) injector problem. if you have leaky injectors you have to replace them. I got the fuel bleed t way and solved my flooding. low compression could be a good sighn.

 

i guess illl be pulling the fuse everytime until i can get a switch then...hmmmm

 

but why now...????

 

After a serious flood like that I would replace the oil, since the fuel likely contaminated the oil. Also, I would change the plugs too.

 

yep change the plugs. flooding ruins them.

as for the water it's partly normal. you need to drive the car longer more often and let it get hot. like 30+ mins.

 

anywhere else where i can get a fuel pump cut off switch? i was told i can just get a switch from radio shack and hack this into one of the wires that run underneath the steering column. anyone know which color wire controls the fuel?

 

In nearly all cases it does. The injectors leak because crud stops the pintle from seating properly. If you have your injectors cleaned and they still leak, take them back to the place that did them and ask them why they didn't leak test them after the cleaning like they're supposed to.

 

OK, here is the definitive fuel pump switch how-to.

This picture from the FSM should help. This is the Circuit Opening Relay that disables the fuel pump in an accident. It’s a located under the dash next to the steering column and has a yellow plug, so you can’t miss it.



The B wire (black with a white stripe) is the power supply and the Fp wire (blue with a red stripe) goes to the fuel pump. The switch can go into either of these wires, it doesn’t matter which. Simply cut the wire, extend each cut end to your chosen switch location using the same or thicker gauge wire and terminate them onto the switch. Note that the STA wire is also black with a white stripe, but it’s thinner. Make sure you get the right wire.
I installed my switch in the little plastic panel under the steering column with the lap vent. This was to keep the wires short and the switch out of the way. It’s not hidden enough to be a security measure (I have an alarm with an immobiliser for that), but it’s far enough away that it cann’t get switched off accidentally. I don’t recommend installing the switch in the center console, no matter how cool it looks. It that switch is turned off while the engine’s at full noise it will probably die a sudden, horrible death.
Hope that helps.

 

thanks NZ, that really helped!!

 

Can you help me identify which transistor to look at in the ecu? I have ecu for S4 TII. I've replaced discolored resistors and bought several ecu's. Do you have a picture or schematic to point me to the potential failing transistor?

 

what the heck.....back from the dead....turned out it was low compression and now the car is sitting in the yard--

 

not the junkyard I hope?

 

nope.....just waiting for my bodykit and some money so i can thro another motor in the meantime while i wait for the turbo swap--