Project Daily Drifter
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 4,403
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From: Avondale, Arizona
Project Daily Drifter
Picked up a S4 TII with a blown motor over the weekend. Has some goodies on it but has a few detrimental things.
I plan on turning it into a reliable but drift ready car so I can use it as a back up car for work in the event my daily driven TII goes down but most of it's life will be on the track for drifting and club racing. My power levels are modest. I only want 220-300rw max.
------------------------
Engine Managment
------------------------
The previous setup was a Haltech so there's no stock EFI harness/ecu/sensors and the TB's been modified for the haltech stuff and the ignition coil wires have been cut
So I plan to completely restore this to a S4 ECU system. I believe the stock ECU (although limited) is one of the best ways to control a rotary out there. I know haltechs/etc are great but I've seen too many issues with them being driven daily.
Maps go away/ECU fries/the whole tuning issue/etc
All emissions removed.
720 secondaries
I do plan on doing an Rtek 1.7 or 2.0 though
-----------------------
Engine & Turbo
-----------------------
Rebuilt with a streetport
OMP blocked and premixed
S5 Turbo with ported wastegate.
Run about 12psi
Isuzu NPR FMIC
--Maybe a bnr stage 2 later on after the initial build.
FD Alternator
Bare bones vac lines
Oil pressure/temp gauges
Adjustable FPR
Fuel pressure gauge
--------------------
Exhaust
--------------------
Racingbeat 3inch downpipe
Racingbeat Presilencer
Corksport single! (already installed
)
--------------------
Suspension
--------------------
Currently
Tokico Blues and Eibach springs
Eventually coilovers. Maybe Ksport
--------------------
Exterior
--------------------
Maybe flat black because the paint is pretty bad.
so far I'm thinking stock because front bumpers and stuff would just get hurt on a track anyway.
I'll post pics of my work as I go through this in the next few months.




I plan on turning it into a reliable but drift ready car so I can use it as a back up car for work in the event my daily driven TII goes down but most of it's life will be on the track for drifting and club racing. My power levels are modest. I only want 220-300rw max.
------------------------
Engine Managment
------------------------
The previous setup was a Haltech so there's no stock EFI harness/ecu/sensors and the TB's been modified for the haltech stuff and the ignition coil wires have been cut

So I plan to completely restore this to a S4 ECU system. I believe the stock ECU (although limited) is one of the best ways to control a rotary out there. I know haltechs/etc are great but I've seen too many issues with them being driven daily.
Maps go away/ECU fries/the whole tuning issue/etc
All emissions removed.
720 secondaries
I do plan on doing an Rtek 1.7 or 2.0 though

-----------------------
Engine & Turbo
-----------------------
Rebuilt with a streetport
OMP blocked and premixed
S5 Turbo with ported wastegate.
Run about 12psi
Isuzu NPR FMIC
--Maybe a bnr stage 2 later on after the initial build.
FD Alternator
Bare bones vac lines
Oil pressure/temp gauges
Adjustable FPR
Fuel pressure gauge
--------------------
Exhaust
--------------------
Racingbeat 3inch downpipe
Racingbeat Presilencer
Corksport single! (already installed
)--------------------
Suspension
--------------------
Currently
Tokico Blues and Eibach springs
Eventually coilovers. Maybe Ksport
--------------------
Exterior
--------------------
Maybe flat black because the paint is pretty bad.
so far I'm thinking stock because front bumpers and stuff would just get hurt on a track anyway.
I'll post pics of my work as I go through this in the next few months.




i think you should reconsider your engine management choice. when properly tuned, a haltech will absolutely blow the stock ECU out of the water in EVERY aspect, especially reliability. the haltech itself will be newer and it will have its own fresh new wiring harness instead of a hardened/cracked 20 year old S4 stocker. It's also way more precise than a RTEK with many more corrections you can program in and a boatload of extra features you can use if you want. in my opinion, if you can afford it theres absolutely no reason to not to get it, it has no downside other than price. also, i daily driven mine with no problems, it just takes a while to work out all the tuning.
you are doing almost the exact same thing i am...except im going to be going standalone ..... and im also using a BNR stage 3.... basically im doing all this for a good daily driver/touge car..
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 4,403
Likes: 4
From: Avondale, Arizona
Originally Posted by NOPR
i think you should reconsider your engine management choice. when properly tuned, a haltech will absolutely blow the stock ECU out of the water in EVERY aspect, especially reliability. the haltech itself will be newer and it will have its own fresh new wiring harness instead of a hardened/cracked 20 year old S4 stocker. It's also way more precise than a RTEK with many more corrections you can program in and a boatload of extra features you can use if you want. in my opinion, if you can afford it theres absolutely no reason to not to get it, it has no downside other than price. also, i daily driven mine with no problems, it just takes a while to work out all the tuning.
The issue I have is Price and tuning.
Price will be $500ish for ecu,harness,rtek 1.7,etc. No tuning needed and it's a turn key item.
Haltech will be $1200 for harness/ecu/sensors Then $300 for wideabnd and then $$ for tuning with the chance of popping a motor before it's even done being tuned and our local tuner friend is moving out of country for a while

Oh and the Rtek guys shop is just down the street from me so upgrades/etc are local
Man I just pulled out the Wolf From my car and am going back to stock... It was just way over my head...
My coils are cut too... I need to figure out how to rewire that....
My coils are cut too... I need to figure out how to rewire that....
Originally Posted by Digi7ech
I rework S4 harnesses so the harness will be like brand new once I'm done with it.
The issue I have is Price and tuning.
Price will be $500ish for ecu,harness,rtek 1.7,etc. No tuning needed and it's a turn key item.
Haltech will be $1200 for harness/ecu/sensors Then $300 for wideabnd and then $$ for tuning with the chance of popping a motor before it's even done being tuned and our local tuner friend is moving out of country for a while
Oh and the Rtek guys shop is just down the street from me so upgrades/etc are local
The issue I have is Price and tuning.
Price will be $500ish for ecu,harness,rtek 1.7,etc. No tuning needed and it's a turn key item.
Haltech will be $1200 for harness/ecu/sensors Then $300 for wideabnd and then $$ for tuning with the chance of popping a motor before it's even done being tuned and our local tuner friend is moving out of country for a while

Oh and the Rtek guys shop is just down the street from me so upgrades/etc are local

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Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 4,403
Likes: 4
From: Avondale, Arizona
The previous owner took the haltech before he sold it.
As for spending money on suspension..
Coilovers won't do much if you have to push/tow it.
It already has Tokico blues and eibach all around and a corksport lower strut bar.
DTSS will be on my list of to do's though.
I got the car locally.
BY pure chance I was looking for a project TII and my buddy had one because he had an offer on a better project
As for spending money on suspension..
Coilovers won't do much if you have to push/tow it.
It already has Tokico blues and eibach all around and a corksport lower strut bar.
DTSS will be on my list of to do's though.
I got the car locally.
BY pure chance I was looking for a project TII and my buddy had one because he had an offer on a better project
Last edited by Digi7ech; Mar 28, 2007 at 11:00 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 4,403
Likes: 4
From: Avondale, Arizona
I'm going to do this project in steps.
First get it running(and pass emissions)
So I have to get the motor back up/get a turbo/get injectors/fuel system
Once I get it past emissions and break in. I'll think about upgrading to rtek 2.0 and doing a bnr stage 2.
First get it running(and pass emissions)
So I have to get the motor back up/get a turbo/get injectors/fuel system
Once I get it past emissions and break in. I'll think about upgrading to rtek 2.0 and doing a bnr stage 2.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 4,403
Likes: 4
From: Avondale, Arizona
Now for the wiring.
Here are the items cut for Haltech/misc items.
Cut Coil wires


Some plug under the passenger dash/ecu area. Can't remember what they are but luckily they are color coded.

Hatch Bin Battery. The previous owner had an unfused 12v wire just laying on the passenger carpet. I was a bit suproised to find that. I taped it off for now but will either be removing it or fusing it.

Remote shutoff switch mounted at thw rear wiper.
It suproised me that this was the 12v side and not ground. Doesn't seem safe to me but I don't know if that's standard or not. I'll be rerouting it through the side pillar to hide the length of wire that currently are just running stright to the battery bin.

CAS and Alternator wires cut/modified.

Harness plugs just hanging. I'll be plugging these back in and remounting it to the wall.

Stereo/Apexi Turbo timer/ and fuel relay wires.
Stereo is on back burner for now.
Turbo timer will be inspected to make sure it's functioning although not needed with the stock turbo
Fuel relay will have a cut switch installed inline.

Engine stripped down to check stuff out and tape off openings.

Radiator with Izusiu NPR intercooler peaking out from behind it. Oh, and that black line... That's the 12v main power line.
That'll be rerouted or redesigned.

Isuzu NPR intercooler fits so damn perfect it's scary.
Here are the items cut for Haltech/misc items.
Cut Coil wires


Some plug under the passenger dash/ecu area. Can't remember what they are but luckily they are color coded.

Hatch Bin Battery. The previous owner had an unfused 12v wire just laying on the passenger carpet. I was a bit suproised to find that. I taped it off for now but will either be removing it or fusing it.

Remote shutoff switch mounted at thw rear wiper.
It suproised me that this was the 12v side and not ground. Doesn't seem safe to me but I don't know if that's standard or not. I'll be rerouting it through the side pillar to hide the length of wire that currently are just running stright to the battery bin.

CAS and Alternator wires cut/modified.

Harness plugs just hanging. I'll be plugging these back in and remounting it to the wall.

Stereo/Apexi Turbo timer/ and fuel relay wires.
Stereo is on back burner for now.
Turbo timer will be inspected to make sure it's functioning although not needed with the stock turbo
Fuel relay will have a cut switch installed inline.

Engine stripped down to check stuff out and tape off openings.

Radiator with Izusiu NPR intercooler peaking out from behind it. Oh, and that black line... That's the 12v main power line.
That'll be rerouted or redesigned.
Isuzu NPR intercooler fits so damn perfect it's scary.
Cradle to Grave 0313 USMC
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
From: 29 Stumps, California. Soon to be Afghanistan...
> Nice...
Pretty much what I have now. Though I may consider a standalone early next year. I'm also aiming for a modest 300 rwhp, which is good enough for a drift/touge FC. Oh, and are you gonna increase steering angle as well? And are you also gonna replace the DTSS bushings?
Pretty much what I have now. Though I may consider a standalone early next year. I'm also aiming for a modest 300 rwhp, which is good enough for a drift/touge FC. Oh, and are you gonna increase steering angle as well? And are you also gonna replace the DTSS bushings?
Last edited by Aaron Cake; Apr 8, 2007 at 10:50 AM. Reason: Remove quote of entire thread
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 4,403
Likes: 4
From: Avondale, Arizona
bump to myself with an interesting link I'll look at when i get home.
http://www.mustang50magazine.com/pro..._solenoid.html
NHRA safe street car relocated battery.
The current setup is dangerous because it's a long length of 12v wire. I want to atleast get one fuse in it near the battery.
Also, side note. 12v switched side is the nhra standard(even though these mustang guys want it on ground as well)
http://www.mustang50magazine.com/pro..._solenoid.html
NHRA safe street car relocated battery.
The current setup is dangerous because it's a long length of 12v wire. I want to atleast get one fuse in it near the battery.
Also, side note. 12v switched side is the nhra standard(even though these mustang guys want it on ground as well)
I like that intercooler setup alot. Ive been looking for creative ideas for not so standard i/c's. That looks like another great idea to play with for me. Looks like you have yourself a nice project. Do it right!
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 4,403
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From: Avondale, Arizona
Going with Black and Blue and some silver.
Also fixed the coil wires tonight.


Metalcast roxxorz hard.
Ground/Base coat of silver flake
Oil fill tube

Fuel rails

Next the Black metal flake coat which is a rustoleum paint which was designated for outdoor/auto use.

THen the Metalcast Blue for the rails.

I think I'm going to paint the manifolds the flake black as well.
Then maybe Blue TB and then Black TB cap/IC pipes
Also fixed the coil wires tonight.


Metalcast roxxorz hard.

Ground/Base coat of silver flake
Oil fill tube

Fuel rails

Next the Black metal flake coat which is a rustoleum paint which was designated for outdoor/auto use.

THen the Metalcast Blue for the rails.

I think I'm going to paint the manifolds the flake black as well.
Then maybe Blue TB and then Black TB cap/IC pipes
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 4,403
Likes: 4
From: Avondale, Arizona
I gotta do something between saving for the big parts.
UIM and TB painted so far. It's a bit too black instead oif gunmetal but I think it will look good.

UIM and TB painted so far. It's a bit too black instead oif gunmetal but I think it will look good.

this is where i stopped reading
"So I plan to completely restore this to a S4 ECU system. I believe the stock ECU (although limited) is one of the best ways to control a rotary out there."
get a clue
"So I plan to completely restore this to a S4 ECU system. I believe the stock ECU (although limited) is one of the best ways to control a rotary out there."
get a clue
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 4,403
Likes: 4
From: Avondale, Arizona
Originally Posted by bryanfc
this is where i stopped reading
"So I plan to completely restore this to a S4 ECU system. I believe the stock ECU (although limited) is one of the best ways to control a rotary out there."
get a clue
"So I plan to completely restore this to a S4 ECU system. I believe the stock ECU (although limited) is one of the best ways to control a rotary out there."
get a clue
What ever.
I know the stock ecu system in and out. With my power goal and reliability as a primary objective. The Stock system rocks.
You can think I'm a moron, but I've been daily driving 12psi for 3 years now so I'm obviosuly doing something right.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 4,403
Likes: 4
From: Avondale, Arizona
All done with painting manifolds.




Now it's time to move onto wiring.
Still need to get a harness and some sensors but while I wait for them I have the cut ones to deal with and making a fuekl cut switch. I won't be disclosing that one though. It will be ninja sneaky though




Now it's time to move onto wiring.
Still need to get a harness and some sensors but while I wait for them I have the cut ones to deal with and making a fuekl cut switch. I won't be disclosing that one though. It will be ninja sneaky though
hmmm, i drive my tII daily and it runs a haltech... and has a big port, big turbo, exc... no issues? havent heard of people having issues really?
i love that blue paint, i think ill paint some of my stuff that = )
seems like you got your self a nice project going
i love that blue paint, i think ill paint some of my stuff that = )
seems like you got your self a nice project going








