Project Daily Drifter
#106
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A visual description of what Aaron Is trying to say.
http://www.anplumbing.com/SWIVEL_SEAL_HOSE_ENDS.html
BTW, that hood Is quite a piece! It's currently being used as my wallpaper!
http://www.anplumbing.com/SWIVEL_SEAL_HOSE_ENDS.html
BTW, that hood Is quite a piece! It's currently being used as my wallpaper!
...
I love AN fittings when used with braided stainless hose. It's the damn Push Lock, Twist Lock or other types of "cheap" push on hose that kills me. All the manufacturers offer some kind of push-on hose with special fittings that is supposed to be cheap, easy to assemble and lightweight but I find that it's none of the above. It's a real pain in the *** to assemble and the fittings are the same price (if not more) then regular AN fittings...Without a doubt it's lighter though.
Now, the trick with AN fittings is to buy good stuff and practice. Don't buy no-name fittings and hose, stick with the major brand names. The quality of the stainless braid and it's adhesion to the rubber hose is inferior on the generic stuff. The machine work on the generic fittings is also nowhere near as good as the name brand fittings.
With -6 and larger, the success you have assembling the fitting will depend on the quality of cut you make on the hose. To get a good cut you first need to wrap the area you wish to slice tightly with electrical tape. Try to wrap it so that you are only cutting through 2 layers of tape. Place the hose in a vice tight enough to hold it in place but not tight enough to deform it, with the cut line about 0.5" from the jaws. Using a VERY THIN cutoff wheel, slice through the hose in one swoop exerting just enough pressure to neatly cut the line but not enough to grab the hose or the braiding. If you do this right, you won't get much smoke from the rubber and the cut surface will be clean and flat.
Now remove from the vice and pull the tape off slowly and at a sharp angle. Place the socket into the vice and using the tips of your fingernails (grow them long) keep the braid against the hose while you push the hose into the socket just past the initial lip. This is the hardest part and is a real pain with hose smaller then -6. It takes some practice to do this without totally fraying the braid so it's best to start with a larger diameter hose. -8 and -10 are very easy.
Once you have the hose past the lip of the socket, twist it in the appropriate direction while pushing firmly on the hose until it bottoms in the socket.
Now mount the socket into a vice and liberally lubricate the inside of the hose and threads with motor oil, as well as the nipple on the hose end. Push the nipple into the socket and start screwing the fitting into the nipple while making sure the hose isn't pushed out the other end. In my experience the hose almost never pushes out.
-4 is a special case and takes real technique. I end up using a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel at the highest speed. With two layers of tape on the cut line, I work around the circumference of the line making sure to cut cleanly through the braid. It's going to fray a little. Then I cut through the rubber. With the socket FIRMLY mounted in a vice I've found the best technique is to leave the tape on, use your fingernails to get as much of the braid in there as possible. Not all of it is going to go. The trick now is to just shove the hose in as hard as possible while twisting. A good pair of grippy gloves helps with this. It's going to take some twisting to get it started and a considerable amount of effort but once you get it into the socket you can keep ramming it home until it bottoms. This may take more then one try if you've never done before. Because of the general stiffness of smaller diameter hose you will probably want to slightly ream the inside of the hose and lubricate it liberally before you start screwing in the nipple.
I love AN fittings when used with braided stainless hose. It's the damn Push Lock, Twist Lock or other types of "cheap" push on hose that kills me. All the manufacturers offer some kind of push-on hose with special fittings that is supposed to be cheap, easy to assemble and lightweight but I find that it's none of the above. It's a real pain in the *** to assemble and the fittings are the same price (if not more) then regular AN fittings...Without a doubt it's lighter though.
Now, the trick with AN fittings is to buy good stuff and practice. Don't buy no-name fittings and hose, stick with the major brand names. The quality of the stainless braid and it's adhesion to the rubber hose is inferior on the generic stuff. The machine work on the generic fittings is also nowhere near as good as the name brand fittings.
With -6 and larger, the success you have assembling the fitting will depend on the quality of cut you make on the hose. To get a good cut you first need to wrap the area you wish to slice tightly with electrical tape. Try to wrap it so that you are only cutting through 2 layers of tape. Place the hose in a vice tight enough to hold it in place but not tight enough to deform it, with the cut line about 0.5" from the jaws. Using a VERY THIN cutoff wheel, slice through the hose in one swoop exerting just enough pressure to neatly cut the line but not enough to grab the hose or the braiding. If you do this right, you won't get much smoke from the rubber and the cut surface will be clean and flat.
Now remove from the vice and pull the tape off slowly and at a sharp angle. Place the socket into the vice and using the tips of your fingernails (grow them long) keep the braid against the hose while you push the hose into the socket just past the initial lip. This is the hardest part and is a real pain with hose smaller then -6. It takes some practice to do this without totally fraying the braid so it's best to start with a larger diameter hose. -8 and -10 are very easy.
Once you have the hose past the lip of the socket, twist it in the appropriate direction while pushing firmly on the hose until it bottoms in the socket.
Now mount the socket into a vice and liberally lubricate the inside of the hose and threads with motor oil, as well as the nipple on the hose end. Push the nipple into the socket and start screwing the fitting into the nipple while making sure the hose isn't pushed out the other end. In my experience the hose almost never pushes out.
-4 is a special case and takes real technique. I end up using a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel at the highest speed. With two layers of tape on the cut line, I work around the circumference of the line making sure to cut cleanly through the braid. It's going to fray a little. Then I cut through the rubber. With the socket FIRMLY mounted in a vice I've found the best technique is to leave the tape on, use your fingernails to get as much of the braid in there as possible. Not all of it is going to go. The trick now is to just shove the hose in as hard as possible while twisting. A good pair of grippy gloves helps with this. It's going to take some twisting to get it started and a considerable amount of effort but once you get it into the socket you can keep ramming it home until it bottoms. This may take more then one try if you've never done before. Because of the general stiffness of smaller diameter hose you will probably want to slightly ream the inside of the hose and lubricate it liberally before you start screwing in the nipple.
#107
The car is on the back burner for now. I've got to work off some debt first before I can move forward. Hopefully by the beginning f the year I'll be able to get more parts for it.
As a mini update. I've found my battery cable path. It's going to hug the inside of the drivers frame rail and then enter through the rubber grommet in the hatch bin area.
I've run the lines already but haven't secured them yet.
As a mini update. I've found my battery cable path. It's going to hug the inside of the drivers frame rail and then enter through the rubber grommet in the hatch bin area.
I've run the lines already but haven't secured them yet.
#108
Mini update.
I bolted up the LIM with all the gaskets.
I bought some more fittings so I can finish the fuel lines and oil feed line.
I am going to use the Stock S4 secondary rail with the FPR for now until I can buy an after market one. I have all the fittings to switch over as soon as I buy one.
I bought the front iron adapter and another 90 degree 4an fitting to finish my turbo feed line.
I'm about to get a S5 manifold to turbo gasket so I can bolt that up and am working on getting a S4 TPS.
Oh and I got some 2.5 inch piping and a U-bend for the IC
----------------
I still need(off the top of my head)
Variable resistor
S4 TII ECU
2x 550cc low impedance injectors
2x 720cc low impedance injectors (or 4 depending on what I can get cheap)
Oil return line OR 10AN hose and 10AN hose ends
BOV
I bolted up the LIM with all the gaskets.
I bought some more fittings so I can finish the fuel lines and oil feed line.
I am going to use the Stock S4 secondary rail with the FPR for now until I can buy an after market one. I have all the fittings to switch over as soon as I buy one.
I bought the front iron adapter and another 90 degree 4an fitting to finish my turbo feed line.
I'm about to get a S5 manifold to turbo gasket so I can bolt that up and am working on getting a S4 TPS.
Oh and I got some 2.5 inch piping and a U-bend for the IC
----------------
I still need(off the top of my head)
Variable resistor
S4 TII ECU
2x 550cc low impedance injectors
2x 720cc low impedance injectors (or 4 depending on what I can get cheap)
Oil return line OR 10AN hose and 10AN hose ends
BOV
#118
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Join Date: Jan 2005
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i love the painted parts.. im doing mine as well.. how did you manage to paint the throttle body? theres so many springs and metal parts on it? did u just mask it off? or how do you take off those springs and metal brackets thanks
#120
Finished up the battery lines today.
I sanded and shortened the ground line so it's not hanging out near the radiator and oil cooler lines.
Here is the final battery bin. Breaker mounted on the right side.
Battery line coming up out of the floor.
Breaker up front of the car where the long power line enters the engine bay. That way it prevents a fault on either end of the line.
I sanded and shortened the ground line so it's not hanging out near the radiator and oil cooler lines.
Here is the final battery bin. Breaker mounted on the right side.
Battery line coming up out of the floor.
Breaker up front of the car where the long power line enters the engine bay. That way it prevents a fault on either end of the line.
#121
Argh! I hate to say it but I've stopped the project. It sucks big because I hate not following through but I've got to get a better DD.
I can only own two vehicles at a time and I've finally decided on going with a piston powered DD.
My Black FC is becoming my dedicated drift car. I'll be swapping over the fun parts like battery lines/FMIC/struts/rear end over to it and then parting out this silver one.
I'll take pics of the black one with parts on it once I get the silver one parted out and out of the garage.
I can only own two vehicles at a time and I've finally decided on going with a piston powered DD.
My Black FC is becoming my dedicated drift car. I'll be swapping over the fun parts like battery lines/FMIC/struts/rear end over to it and then parting out this silver one.
I'll take pics of the black one with parts on it once I get the silver one parted out and out of the garage.
#124
Car was parted out and sold to a local FC person.
I kept the flywheel/clutch/tranny/drive shaft/rear end/lower strut bar/hood/ wheels/hubs/
I then installed the driveline in my black GTU. Got all MMR sloid mounts for the back and then got Ksports
So, even thoguh it's sad to part this out. The money went right into my other FC and made it drift ready. I already participated in Trial By Fire last week. It kicked ***.
Pics of me putting it in my GTU
Spec Stage 2 clutch after 100K miles of hard driving.
Nevrbreak Diff mount..
Old NA rear
MMR mounts
I kept the flywheel/clutch/tranny/drive shaft/rear end/lower strut bar/hood/ wheels/hubs/
I then installed the driveline in my black GTU. Got all MMR sloid mounts for the back and then got Ksports
So, even thoguh it's sad to part this out. The money went right into my other FC and made it drift ready. I already participated in Trial By Fire last week. It kicked ***.
Pics of me putting it in my GTU
Spec Stage 2 clutch after 100K miles of hard driving.
Nevrbreak Diff mount..
Old NA rear
MMR mounts