Ottoman

ah the noise hehe..

Yeah i have a CS catback as well

Straight pipe all the way from the turbo till the muffler... no silencers or resonators..

tho i'm thinking of putting a borla XR-1..

does yours have a Raspy "flappy" metallic sound at light acceleration?

hard to explain...

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, in a certain range at a certain throttle input I've got a nasty rasp. Kind of Honda ricer ish.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Started to work on the Car side of the harness.

Put on a New CAS plug since that went bye bye with the haltech.


Then I looked at the interior side of the ECU plugs to see if there was any cut wires.
So far only found one.

So I soldered it back together and bolted them back up in their spots.

Before



After

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Finished the loom part of the harness.

It's all done except finding something for heat protection near the turbo.
They didn't sell clear loom anymore so I went with black.


I'm thinking of using some spare aluminum sheets I have to either make a heat shield or a divider at the firewall so the strut area is comepletely sectioned off like newer BMW's.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Stopped by the pick n Pull and got me a Taurus/Continental E-Fan

All I can say is GOD DAMN!
I hooked it up to a battery to test it and the thing sucked itself to the ground!
When it was reversed the thing tried to float!
I may actually get another one of these for my daily driver.


Here's a mock fitting


Here are the models it comes out of.
86-96 Taurus/Sable
86-94 Lincoln Continental
94-97 T-Bird
98 GT Mustang

It comes out of the cars equiped with the 3.8 V6
A tell tale sign is the 3 wire plug for it.
They are:
Black w/ Yellow stripe
Black w/ Orange stripe
Black

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Started to mess with the Air temp sensor today.

The TB is weled for a FMIC and the origianl sensor location had been tapped for the haltech sensor.

I just stuck a 3/8 npt fitting into the large opening for now but will probably cap it.

I then used some half *** dremil bits to make a hole. I was then going to tap it for the sensor. I ended up making it slighty larger than the threading

So back up plan is to use a bolt on the inside and lock tite it in. The current bolt is not the final piece. Just to give you an idea. THis puts it directly into the air path.


The bolt doesn';t interfere with the airflow so the sensor shoudl read fine.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Took a break from the technical stuff and painted the hood.

turboefini88

iTrader: (1)

That hood is fawkin pimp as hell. Man, motivation is all I gotta say. Pretty sweet.

Node

iTrader: (1)

OMG COREY! THAT HOOD, SO ******* HILARIOUS!!!!!!!!!
Thats awesome man

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

you need to work on your stenciling skills. overspray an underspray own you just a lil bit.

cpubugs

You mean you choose not to do it. Didn't your parents ever give you the "Can't never could speach"? You seem to be pretty inclined mechanically so saying you "can't" do something is just a cop out. You already said you didn't want to spend the $$ to get a haltech and get it tuned that should be good enough don't keep making excuses and trying to justify your self to people. It is your car and they have no say. If you really wanted to tun a haltech this board as well as many of the other boards have tons of information and people willing to help. Fact is this though, If the stock ECU was so great there would be no need for a standalone. I am not doubting your 3 years on a stock ecu with no issues, just don't write off a standalone so qucikly.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

I didn't spend a lot of time towards the end on masking. That's where the under/over spray comes in.

In the end. This is just a spray paint fun thing. I'll eventually sand/prime it back down and do something else once weather/rocks kill it.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

got a tap at Ace hardware and made a new hole.
Used an old water temp sensor to plug the bad 1/8th tapped one I made
Then used a 3/8th to plug the hatlech hole.

It's right in the air path so hopefully it will do well.



I also cut a template out for a manifold heat shield. It's going to be under the water feed line and follow the line of the manifold to hopefully combat some heat soak.
Any one recommend a certain metal/material and thickness?

R3N5LOW

iTrader: (1)

thats really sick i love it
thats what i plan on doing in the near future =]

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

nice work!

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

I'm re thinking my battery disconnect switch to try and incoprorate a stationary mount so the main run of wire if fixed and doesn't move.

Do you guys think this item would be a hinderance to the voltage/amperage for the starter?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...9984573&rd=1,1

It has to increase resistance in the wire because your going from a stranded wire to a bolt/copper lug and then back to stranded. You think it's negligable?

I'm thinking one post per wire for the shut off switch mounted on the side of the strut tower so that way only a few feet of wire is moving instead of the whole thing.

Or do you know of any other junction blocks which I coudl use instead for this kinf od amperage?

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Rethought my wiring setup.

Here is a race day vs street path.

I would use 3 studs in line to switch from direct to battery to passing through the shutoff.

That way I don't have to worry about battery wires in the hacth during street driving. While at the track the hatch won't have anythign there so it'll be fine if it just hangs back there.

Syncro

iTrader: (1)

That hood is PIMP!

ColdSeven

man nice work on the hood, i was defenitely thinking no f-ing way did he mask it like that...then i seen the final product and the over/under spray makes it look better IMO.

good work hope the body paint will be similar.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Went to the local race shops but they didn't have any studs or firewall pass thru's in stock. SO I'll have to order those off of ebay or somethign within the month.

I got an offer on a BNR stage 2 but can't buy it right now so I painted the turbo feed/drain lines for the stocker

I'm going to keep these until I can afford to replace them with SS once the car is running.

So here are the rusty *** pieces.


and then sanded/degreased.


Metalcast Base coat.


Then the blue top coat


Doesn't look like this thing will be any where near ready for Sevenstock.
So it'll be the daily driver again. Debating on wether I shoudl put this hood on the car for laughs at the event.

ColdSeven

i say you not only put the hood on but match the body also with it.dare to be different dude.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Ordered gaskets and some other things like shifter bushings.

Just went to Western Marine and picked up some isolated power posts.
Just 2 since that's all they had. I am just going to setup street trim for now and once running I'll get the race wiring working.
They were about $14 a piece.
If only I could find a BEP Marine retailer. They have the sexiest isolated power posts ever!

Also thanks to Nolan I've got battery cable to use now.
Now I gotta order some firewall battery pass thru's and I'll be on my way

FlavorDrops

Any pics of it not resized by microsoft paint?

PvillKnight7

iTrader: (16)

you ONLY want 12 psi for you "drift" car??

K!NCH

iTrader: (2)

That hood is ****** amazing.

@Digi: Just curious, but what are you gonna do for wheels?