I only want 12psi on a stocker for now.

I already drift my daily driver and 10psi(summer air + Topmount =sucks) is plenty to get 205's spinning. It does lack a bit of follow through power but I'm still a novice.
I will be going to a BNR stage 2 eventually and going for 300rwhp.
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The car currently has 17inch Konigs a spoked design. All the tread is bad so I'll be buying some federal 595's for it.

$330 shipped for all 4 from ebay!
235/40/17
These are for my DD.

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Here's a better pic.
AZRx7 BBQ

 

Amazing man. you give me so much inspiration for my build up!! Keep up the good work. I love the car so far!! That hood kicks ***!! lol.

 

woohoo.

Got the gaskets today.
Holy crap does the shifter feel different after that kit!

I bought a new shifter spring to replace the broken one in the car but it turns out it wraps around the shift shaft so I can't install it without doing some real work. So that;s out for now.


Installed the waterpump today
I'm going to hold off on the LIM until I get the S5 exhuast manifold to make my job easier.
ALso bought some of the AN lines I'll need for the turbo feed and Fuel lines.

It will be parallel. Doing Pushlock for this one. Never done it but looks easy enough

 

dude.....that metalcast stuff IS THE ****!!! im doing this for sure!

 

did you just hack off the old part and straiten it out? what did you use to weld it, tig? was it a pain in the *** to do?

 

Previous owner is a welder so he did it. Looks to be really easy. If you can weld aluminum..

 

That is the greatest hood I've ever seen. If I had a spare 2nd gen hood, I'd do the same thing on my car and then just open it up and walk away when people start laughing!

I share the popular opinion that you should have went with a standalone. By the time the stock harness is fixed, slimmed and modified you still end up with a 20 year old harness of questionable integrity with old and worn out connectors. And then you need the piggybacks/stock ECU hacks to make it all work. For something like this a Microtech would have been a great choice.

I see that you are using the "Twist Lock" style hose and AN fittings. Is that Russel or Earls? Looks like Earls to me...Once you get things assembled, can you please let me know the trick for assembling that stuff?

 

That hood is amazing. I have two spare hoods, and the day I get a front mount I am gonna copy your idea so hard.

 

Not sure what brand the AN stuff is. I went to Anglo American Road Racing and they were in little ziplock bags. I don't think they had brand engravings.
So far there doesn't seem to be a trick to the twist lock stuff. Just push it on and your done. MMmmmm, Overpriced barb fittings

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Most of my friends are using EMS's and they've had some issues I don't even want to get into(electrical problems suck to track down).
Microtechs losing maps when it has low voltage.
Haltech sensors compltetly wrong
Haltech ECU's burnt

Locally the new EMS kick is the Motec M4.

I had a few spare harnesses so staying OEM was the cheapest method to get running(still have a lot fo stuff to buy). Maybe I'll go EMS down the road but right now the stock ECU works great for what I want and it's the cheapest method.
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So far I still need to get 4x720cc Injectors/Spark plug wires/FPR/MBC/Silicone hose/Shifter ****/firewall pass thru/Intercooler piping/Intercooler couplers/Tbolts/Possible radiator/ECU/Efan SPAL module

My credit card is hurting already.

 

I'm w/ Aaron on this one.
I hate AN fittings, everytime I try to put the fittin on the line the steel braid starts to fray and it makes things very difficult. Then half of them want to leak when you finally get them on. If you don't have the "secret" I guess I'll just have some ines made.

However I'm in your corner on the whole Rtek thing, I've got similar power goals w/ an S5 turbo and w/ all the other things I HAVE to buy, I don't have money for a stand alone when a much cheaper system will get the job done.

 

where did you get that front s4 bumper!!!!

 

Bmagic replica from AIT.

 

Hmm, if it went on easily it certainly wasn't Russel. Took me nearly 2 hours to get two Russel "Twist Lock" fittings into the hose even though I followed the instructions. And they only went on 3/4 of the way. No human is strong enough to finish them...

I find that most "EMS problems" are actually "owner based installation problems". Many times I've worked on a car where "This Haltech is a piece of crap!" only to find injectors wired up with speaker cord, CAS harnesses connected with wire nuts, etc.

Yeah, tell me about it.

I love AN fittings when used with braided stainless hose. It's the damn Push Lock, Twist Lock or other types of "cheap" push on hose that kills me. All the manufacturers offer some kind of push-on hose with special fittings that is supposed to be cheap, easy to assemble and lightweight but I find that it's none of the above. It's a real pain in the *** to assemble and the fittings are the same price (if not more) then regular AN fittings...Without a doubt it's lighter though.

Now, the trick with AN fittings is to buy good stuff and practice. Don't buy no-name fittings and hose, stick with the major brand names. The quality of the stainless braid and it's adhesion to the rubber hose is inferior on the generic stuff. The machine work on the generic fittings is also nowhere near as good as the name brand fittings.

With -6 and larger, the success you have assembling the fitting will depend on the quality of cut you make on the hose. To get a good cut you first need to wrap the area you wish to slice tightly with electrical tape. Try to wrap it so that you are only cutting through 2 layers of tape. Place the hose in a vice tight enough to hold it in place but not tight enough to deform it, with the cut line about 0.5" from the jaws. Using a VERY THIN cutoff wheel, slice through the hose in one swoop exerting just enough pressure to neatly cut the line but not enough to grab the hose or the braiding. If you do this right, you won't get much smoke from the rubber and the cut surface will be clean and flat.

Now remove from the vice and pull the tape off slowly and at a sharp angle. Place the socket into the vice and using the tips of your fingernails (grow them long) keep the braid against the hose while you push the hose into the socket just past the initial lip. This is the hardest part and is a real pain with hose smaller then -6. It takes some practice to do this without totally fraying the braid so it's best to start with a larger diameter hose. -8 and -10 are very easy.

Once you have the hose past the lip of the socket, twist it in the appropriate direction while pushing firmly on the hose until it bottoms in the socket.

Now mount the socket into a vice and liberally lubricate the inside of the hose and threads with motor oil, as well as the nipple on the hose end. Push the nipple into the socket and start screwing the fitting into the nipple while making sure the hose isn't pushed out the other end. In my experience the hose almost never pushes out.

-4 is a special case and takes real technique. I end up using a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel at the highest speed. With two layers of tape on the cut line, I work around the circumference of the line making sure to cut cleanly through the braid. It's going to fray a little. Then I cut through the rubber. With the socket FIRMLY mounted in a vice I've found the best technique is to leave the tape on, use your fingernails to get as much of the braid in there as possible. Not all of it is going to go. The trick now is to just shove the hose in as hard as possible while twisting. A good pair of grippy gloves helps with this. It's going to take some twisting to get it started and a considerable amount of effort but once you get it into the socket you can keep ramming it home until it bottoms. This may take more then one try if you've never done before. Because of the general stiffness of smaller diameter hose you will probably want to slightly ream the inside of the hose and lubricate it liberally before you start screwing in the nipple.

 

Yeah, That 4an line seen above took me about 15 minutes of pushing and twisting to get it all the way to the back of the nut thing. 5 minutes of that just starting it on the hose itself.

 

ive had NUMEROUS little pin holes in my fingers that just bleed like hell from the braided lines. after you get cut, you keep working and the pressure needed for the AN's to fit into the braided lines just makes them bleed more!!

 

You can avoid the mangled fingers by using a pair of TIG welding gloves made of thin goatskin (or leather).

 

Hawt Damn man!!

Im glad to see somebody taking their time and doing all this and documenting everything. That alone is really cool.

That hood rocks the house!!!

Can't wait to see more progress and the finished product eventually.

If your ever in GA for a drift event, or in a surrounding state (SC, FL, TN etc), hit me up on here!! My car should be ready pretty soon and i'll be back in action. It would be nice to see another FC out here LoL

Your GTII Is VERY nice looking too!!

-Austin

 

Well, all the fittings were Earls. I used the summit or Jegs brand hose though, maybey that's where I messed up? I tried cutting w/ a disk (maybe it wasn't thin enough) but it frayed all to hell, so I wrapped it extra tight and some bolt cutters did the trick.

Even when I did get a decent cut, half of them still didn't want to go in easy leading to the afforementioned finger-kabobs. Getting the nipple in was a sinch by comparison as long as you put it in @ an angle and twist it as you insert it. Even after all that it still would have been worth it if half of them didn't leak.

 

where can i get and what color is that metal cast you did on the intake if you dont mind ,that **** looks banging

 

I got it from Checker(any auto parts store in the spray paint aisle)
Silver base coat and then the blue anodized color.

 

Got my Oil feed and oil return adapters Monday!

Two 1/2 NPT T3/4 drain adapters. Luckily our cars front cover is the same bolt pattern. Now I gotta get some 10AN line and hose ends

Then a 1/8th restricted 4AN Feed adapter.

Now I need the front iron to 4AN adapter and anopther 4an hose end and I'm set for feed.

 

Teaser pic of the manifolds put on for mock up. Still trying to figure out the fuel line paths and where to mount the FPR.


Also decided on my battery cable routing. It's not my favorite but it's the best so far. I am going to run the batter cable down the side of the frame rail and then tuck up next to the brake/fuel lines. Obviously this is a low risk zone as the brake/fuel lines are fine. Not a fan of having it under there just because of the "what if" but it's going to work.

I'm having it come up through the pre existing hole in the hatch bin bottoms. So it comes in at the perfect place. I just have to get some decent cabke clamps and then run some rubber hose over the battery wire as an extra abrasion resistant layer.

 

.

 

damn that looks really good.

 

will that belt have enough contact with the eccentric shaft pully? other than that, its starting to really come together! looks good.