Did some research on the battery switch for NHSA/track tech approved.

The current switch will not work because this car has an alternator which is still going to feed the system, and the main shutoff could caiuse a surge through the alternator which woudl kill the Alternator if shut off while the car was running.

The solution is a 4 pole shut off switch. One for the main power line and a smaller gage one for the alternator power line.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

I've taken out the back carpet and hatchbin molding.

I then took the battery out and the wires so I can rethink the path of the wires.
The battery box is all aluminum so I wanted to make it a bit more safe considering it is only inches away from the positive terminal.
I painted it with the Rubberized paint they sell of undercarrages.

 

What did you have to do to get the Isuzu intercooler to fit?

 

wut is standalone and the price isnt it a aftermarket computer

 

The previous owner installd the intercdooler but it was very simple.
He cut a few square inches of metal at the stock over the radiator support area so the end tank couplers could stick out.

Nothing else is modified.

A stand alone is a Full engine management system(Haltech/Microtech/Wolf/Motec,etc..)
Used they can start around $750 and up.
New they are $1200+

The only issue I have with them is the tuning. I cannot do it and no one local can either. So a turn key operation for this car is unlikely.

 

As for today.
I went to the junk yard and grabbed two hatch bins and a charcoal canister.
Also eyeballed a set of PERECT S5 tails. Guy wants about $90 for them so I may go back since the current taillights are scarred and grey.

 

I would follow the advice of everyone on the standalone.. at least get an Rtek 2.0. As far as i know, the Rtek does not have a rev limiter and that is something very important to drifting unless you want to over-rev and pop your motor. Its not like your going to have gobs of power that will let you just blip the throttle to get you through the longer sweeping turns. Oh and btw you will quite easily achieve 300 whp with a streetport and BNR stage 1. You probably wont even need to push the turbo past 10lbs for that. If you want less power you should just do a large streetport with S5 turbo and you will make 250 whp easily and even close to 300whp on high boost and a good tune.

 

I said I'm going Rtek 1.7 or 2.0.

I've decided rtek 2.0 with possibly 720cc all around. If not then 720's as secondaries. That way I can switch between the two instead of having Digital tuning changing chips.

I just bought a S5 turbo so I'll run that till I have enough cash to go to a BNR upgrade.

As for rev limiter and drifting. I already drift my current car and don't have issues. I'm doing 10-12psi on stock turbo.

Can you guys please stop with the go stand alone messages. I've made my mind up and your just making me restate stuff in the thread.

 

Got my S5 turbo. Looks to be in great condition. The wheels have pretty much no play at all in both directions.
I'll be porting the wastegate sometime soon.

Also ordered a 200amp circuit breaker and I should be getting my 4 post cutoff switch soon.

Also got a new waterpump and housing.

I'll post pics up when I get home.

 

of your standalone..?
LOL

Just messin. looks like a fun project. I haven't seen your blk car around in a while, still going stong?

 

^ :P
Yup, Daily driving it.

Actually. You guys do porting of the S5 hotside and how much would you charge? Doing it with my dremil sucks ***.

 

dude, just go up to the shop, it'll take Elliot about an hour. He just did one last week. Not sure on the price, but somewhere around $50-75 I'd imagine.

I try to haggle everyone on price, so it usually helps ...

 

Pics.
Turbo hotside.



They tried a semi polishing job on the compressor. Looks like they didn't even bother removing the rubbing compound.

Waterpump and housing being painted


Wastegate actuator being painted base coat.

And Blue metalcast


Waterpump black manifold color with silver as housing to help contrast.


And my new 4 post battery cut switch installed where the rear wiper would have been

 

Breaker came in the mail.


I'm thinking about running the battery wire down the passenger side due to lack opf firewall items. Then either straight through or a firewall pass through post.

Then across the firewall.
Haven't decided yet,but maybe a distribution block to tee/split between the starter and main fuse block.

 

waterpump neck and pulley.



I'll sand the belt path a bit for grip(got ya before you even mentioned it. HAH!!)

 

I think i've found my layout for the switch /battery side.

There will be 4 wires. 2 2gage main cables and then 2 smaller alternator wires which I've yet to determine a size but I'm thinking 8 gage.

It will be strapped to the stock hatch damper to clear the speaker/strut tower.


Then it will follow the contour of the wheel well/strut tower to the floor.
This will be right where the hatch bins meet. I'll cut a small piece out so the wires can get under it.


It will follow the top where there is a perfect raised path it can go in without being pinched/crammed. It will then drop down behind the passenger bin.


It will then come through a hole I'll cut where that blue tape is. It then terminates at the breaker which is taped up in a possible location.


This gives you an idea of the concealed look. It's just going to leave a bit of slack at the pivot point and then the slack for the hatch strut length.


I'm hoping this will keep the wires from just hanging which ever way in the back.



I've yet to decide which side the cabling will go to get up front.
Drivers side will be cramped with pedals and then brake/clutch cylinders.
Passenger side will be very clear but then I have to trace firewall or go up towards the radiator.

 

Don't have enough cash for a efi harness right now so I thought I'd pull apart my old TII conversion harness.

Just to see of it's worth salvaging. I know the secondary injector wires have compromised shielding so I'm going to use my spare part Jspec harness to swap out the entire run from pin to injector plug.

I may remove all the emissions wires as well. Make it minimalistic.



I removed the Electrical tape off most of it. Just gotta go through the wires and make sure they arten't snapped. I ran this in my daily driver for 2 years so it's gotten stiff again.

 

USDM harness is pretty messy. Lots of heated/crusty items.
Jspec harness JDM fresh but missing connectors from me using it for parts.

Jspec harness

Water temp sensor wires from plug to pin removed from Jspec

All 4 injectors removed from plug to pin on both ground and signal. No solder here Although I will cut inline to use my 6.8ohm resistor boxes.



I've depinned the injectors/water temp on the USDM harness and think I'll be swapping more over to this one from the Jspec. I'll also be removing the emissions plugs so it's bare bones harness. I think I might run secondary grounding wires just as a back up on some sensors just to make this thing bullet proof since the stock ones seem to be a little crispy. I will, of course, Ohm all them out after to make sure they are good but I prefer to go bullet proof.

I also have part of a S5 EFI harness which I found a plug which seems to be a match for my CAS sensor plug so I may be in luck

This harness was my first ever one so I've learned from my mistakes on where and how to insulate/protect it. Hopefully this new harness will be much more resilient.

 

Started back up on the efi harness.

Soldered some joints back together for the TII since it use to be NA X15/16 plugs.

Then I moved onto the Injector wires. I plan on running 720 secondaries or maybe all 720's so I needed to make sure the harness was low impedance.

The run itself was for high impedance so I cut the power lines at the converging point. THe ground/reference lines are unmolested

I am going to splice in the stock 6.5ohm resistor pack but not in the traditional location. This is going to be near the oil filler neck. Which means I get low impedance while using dead space and reducing the length of the power wires(Have you ever seen the extra few feet neeed for the stock location?).




Next up will be soldering on a S5 BAC plug and a scavenged O2 wire from pin to terminal. Then soldering in the water temp plug(back of waterpump)

Here is a mock up of the injector wiring run.



I'm hoping it will work pretty well. Other wise I 'll have to rethink the resistor pack.
I left it unpainted due to the heat produced and the need for cooling these big resistors.
A side bonus is that I bet it'll throw off the emissions guys when I go to pass. They usualy have no clue what to look for on a FC anyway.

 

Adding in a S5 BAC plug for the S5 BAC I'll be using(had one laying around from Jspec)


Harness overview with water temp plug and injectors added in.


I then went through each plug and checked for continuity. Found my fuel relay jumper plug was bad so I added in a new plug from the Jspec parts harness.

And finally I'm wrapping it up.
This is the initial layer.

 

i like it.. looks like a mess right now but i like it. honestly the windshield wiper deal is messy and gross to me.. it either makes the hatch unable to be opened cause your wires are tight or they are loose and saggy when its closed. i dont know what i would do but i just.. oh well its your project. rocks!

 

Rubber adhesive tape added but I forgot to take a pic at the tim.
It now has the blue protective/color layer.


The big Silver and Blue wires are grounds which have been teed into the stock points at the ring terminal and the boost sensor.


And here is my extra protective layer.

I ran out but will be doing almost all of the engine bay side of the harness in this stuff.

I'll also be getting some regular flex loom or maybe some heat reflective stuff to help in common heat areas(passing by turbo//under manifolds).

 

Yeah, I know where your coming from on the hatch shut off.
I'm not a fan of it since I know I'll be opening and closing it often to takle tires/jacks out for race day. I already have it and may need it to pass some tech.

That's why I'm using the hatch strut as an anchor point. It keeps it away from the center of the harch while routing it along the side.

There will be some excess for the hatch to fully open which means it's got to go some where when it's shut. I've thought about adding a small piece of elastic or something which will pull the excess down towards the corner of the hatch so there isn't a chance of it just laying any which way.

I've also thought of doing a mount on the back of the strut tower so the main line is fully anchored while a small portion actually flexes with the hatch.

 

I had little hope for such a project but you've hung in there and drastically improved certain things - keep going and keep us updated

 

what's wrong with the corksport single that u frowned about it?

 

^I daily drive a Racing beat downpipe/presilencer/corksport catback. It's loud as hell.

I can set off car alarms by idling past parked cars.

As for going through this project..
Here is my daily driver.

I'm pretty much compying this setup which hasn't failed me yet. 10-12 psi daily.