ramy just need to set this all up and he will let up know

 

If you wish to participate in the GB please include the following information with your payment (Notes section of paypal, or a physical note with your Money Order/Cashiers Check):

1) Your forum username
2) Your real name
3) Your shipping address
4) What you're purchasing (Clutch, parts kits, shipping method, etc)

Payment info: I'll accept Cashiers Check, Money Order, and Paypal. Paypal is preferred since it is instant and safe. ***Please be aware, I will not be responsible for lost or stolen MO/CC.***

PRICES FOR MONEY ORDER/CASHIERS CHECK

Clutch: $1675
Critical Part Kit: $240 SHIPPED
Recommended Parts Kit: $60 SHIPPED
Critical + Recommended Part Combo Kit: $300 SHIPPED (individual prices already discounted)
EMS (3 - 5 days): $200
Surface (4 - 8 weeks): $100

PRICES FOR PAYPAL ECHECK

Clutch: $1675
Critical Part Kit: $240 SHIPPED
Recommended Parts Kit: $60 SHIPPED
Critical + Recommended Part Combo Kit: $300 SHIPPED (individual prices already discounted)
EMS (3 - 5 days): $200
Surface (4 - 8 weeks): $100
*$5 Echeck fee*

PRICES FOR PAYPAL INSTANT TRANSFER

Clutch: $1736
Critical Part Kit: $249 SHIPPED
Recommended Parts Kit: $62 SHIPPED
Critical + Recommended Part Combo Kit: $311 SHIPPED (individual prices already discounted)
EMS (3 - 5 days): $207
Surface (4 - 8 weeks): $104

*There is a tutorial for PayPal E-Check stickied at the top of this section.
**NO REFUNDS

Address:

Jason Sattar
1384 Mount Shasta Ave
Milpitas, CA 95035

Paypal address: payments@fdnewbieimports.com

 

hey ramy/jason -

so 2243 if sending via paypal using any other method aside from echeck, right?

best,
m

 

I made an edit to the pricing because I forgot to add in the fees for the recommended + critical parts. Just add up what you're ordering and that's you're total that you send.

I strongly recommend using paypal echeck so you don't lose all that extra money. Ramy will be doing a bulk order when the GB closes so paying faster won't get the clutch here that much sooner.

 

Interesting..... Would this clutch be able to handle a 20b pushing 800+ rwhp?

 

From https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo-rx-7s-23/my-clutch-feedback-%2Aexedy-d-core%2A-487905/, it looks like the max is "around 750bhp in single turbo 13B form." Not sure what it would be in 20B form, but you can calculate it using the "68kg/cm or 670Nm torque" rating.

FYI Mark, if you're seriously gonna be running a 20B pushing THAT much power, you need a) a triple plate, and b) a triple plate that's STREETABLE. Your answer is the Tilton Triple Plate Carbon-Carbon clutch. That's the way to go. Expensive up front, but much cheaper in the long run as replacing the carbon friction plate is very cheap.

Oh and you'll need a different tranny too (I'd check out this thread in the 20B section: https://www.rx7club.com/20b-forum-95/tranny-618433/ for info on a MKIV Supra Getrag adaptor to a 13B/20B. You WILL destroy your stock tranny at those power levels, in fact at much MUCH sooner. I promise you that. And a T-56 is not made for high rpms, and shifts like a truck. Getrag's the best way to go while not doing any custom fitment work and still keeping a sychroed box.

~Ramy

 

eCheck sent...

 

LoL, yeah my plan was a triple plate for those power levels. I saw the this GB and I figured I'd ask. Hehe, yeah I know the trans won't survive at those levels. I've been following that thread for a while, haven't looked in a week or so..... WOW, the getrag conversion kit is here!! Holy crap, I thought that would never happen!

 

GB will close 9/26

 

If you're gonna take the plunge, lemme know, as I can get discounts for ya on most of those parts (clutch, flywheel, trans, adapter, etc)

 

I'm definitely taking that plunge. Let me know what you can do.

 

Email me w/ what you're doing, where you're tryin to take it, what you're looking for, and I'll shoot back w/ my $0.02, what I can do, etc etc.

 

Hey Ramy -

does the counterweight come with this too or do we have to order it?

 

Done.




Just a bit of advice to the guys getting one of these clutches. I've got a Exedy twin plate in my FC. The first few hundred miles driving were a bit tricky, to me. But after the break in the clutch had a totally different feel and it was so much more streetable. So, if you stall the bitch out a few times during break in, don't get discouraged. It only gets better, much much much better! I'm very happy with mine now, but I have to admit when I first started driving on it I thought that I had made a terrible mistake for a streetcar. So if you guys have some issues and doubts when you start to drive your new clutch, just keep at it. You won't be sorry. I had been told by others that twin plates are not streetable, and that you will look like a jackass trying to drive one on the street. I think these people never made it past the break in period to realize the full potential of these clutches.

 

any sort of special break in aside from the usual slippage at 5-6k for a couple of times?

 

From this thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=487905

I put about 150-200 miles on the car doing the recommended ~2000rpm starts and minimal big loads and hard accelerations. Then the rest was broken in on the dyno. It was still a bit harsh before it was dyno'd all day long. Once I got the car back after the tune the clutch was fully broken in and perfect. Honestly it felt as if my clutch had been swapped to an OEMish clutch when I drove it home that day.

Follow the break in procedures and you should have great results.

Also, be aware that at idle with the clutch pedal depressed these clutches can be a bit more noisy than your standard clutches. They will make a chattering sound, this is completely normal.

 

Juiceh, thanks for including that. PROPER BREAK-IN IS *ESSENTIAL AND REQUIRED* FOR CLUTCH LONGEVITY!!! Guys PLEASE PLEASE make sure to follow the correct break-in procedure with this clutch (and any clutch for that matter). Please lol. For your own sake

WorkS2R, the kit does NOT include the OEM counterweight you'll need.

~Ramy

 

Hey Ramy -

Ok, is it possible to source that too?

I mean, I'd rather just get everything together all at once..
I can IM you with my email address if you don't want leave that information on this thread as well.

Best,
M

 

WorkS2R, sure. Before I do, lets see if anyone else needs an OEM counterweight? Because if so, I can prob. just buy 5 or however we need all at once. In fact, if anyone's getting the Critical and/or Recommended Parts Kit, I can have the counterweight ship out w/ those parts as well.

Thanks,
~Ramy

 

Ok Thanks Ramy. Wait - would I still need the counterweight if I am already running an aftermarket flywheel ?

 

I have no idea what counterweight you're running. You'll want to use the OEM counterweight for this. The part # is in the first post of this thread

~Ramy

 

I thought that all aftermarket flywheels required the OEM counterweight? (3rd gen anyways?)

 

Negative. You can use aftermarket counterweights, and some clutch kits come w/ their own counterweights.

 

omg, i am so tight in the belt from reading all about this clutch!

 

money sent via e-check with the uber fast shipping and asked to send to my engine builder