Oil Pan Baffle Plate with Trap Doors
#1
Oil Pan Baffle Plate with Trap Doors
Here are some pics of my baffle plates and trap doors I fabricated to go with my XS oil pan.
Also made a 5/8" oil pickup neck spacer. As far as you can go before hitting the oil pan sidewall. Currently the pick up is just under 3/4" away from the bottom of XS oil pan and not fully utilizing the extra depth.
More install pics later.
Also made a 5/8" oil pickup neck spacer. As far as you can go before hitting the oil pan sidewall. Currently the pick up is just under 3/4" away from the bottom of XS oil pan and not fully utilizing the extra depth.
More install pics later.
Trending Topics
#8
Well, there are different ways of doing it. Example CrispyRX7 purchased traps doors from a BMW and made his setup. As far as cost are you asking what I would charge to do it?
Trap doors are out of a BMW E30 M3 baffled sump. They are called "non-return flaps" and run about $28 a pop. OEM Part # 11 13 1 309 428
Trap doors are out of a BMW E30 M3 baffled sump. They are called "non-return flaps" and run about $28 a pop. OEM Part # 11 13 1 309 428
#11
Learns the hard way.....
iTrader: (2)
Another option is a piano hinge. I'm super paranoid about rivets and bolts on the inside of the pan, so I went with aluminum piano hinges from McMaster Carr, so they could be welded to the walls. I repineed the hinge with 3/32 stainless welding rod to make sure the hinge is able to swing freely (stock was 1/8th aluminum). I've seen some folks bend the pin in various ways to ensure the doors can only open a little more than 90 degrees so they don't get stuck all the way up. I tried several ways, and every one seemed to have the possibility of causing the hinge to stick. So, I just notched a relief in the mounting "wall" and flipped the hinge backwards. The "ears" at the base of the wall act as stoppers for the hinge to keep it from swinging backwards. The wall itself retains the pin, and the hinge acts as it's own stop, only allowing itself to open about 110 degrees. There is about a 1/16" gap between the bottom of the hinge and the pan floor to make sure that particulate or thermal expansion won't jam the doors closed. It's not possible in every case, but I read that the best configuration for the trap doors is in a diamond shape instead of a square. That way, each trap door will activate in two axis of motion instead of just one.
Last edited by 13brenova; 04-26-09 at 09:31 PM. Reason: Addition
#14
#17
Learns the hard way.....
iTrader: (2)
Look at the pics and solidworks model here and I think it will make more sense. https://www.rx7club.com/old-school-other-rotary-63/1974-13b-re-nova-727207/page12/ The trap doors shouldn't be parallel with the back, sides, or front of the pan. They should be at 45 degree angles.
#19
Learns the hard way.....
iTrader: (2)
Just want to say that I'm not knocking anybodys work at all! I hope I didn't come off as a know-it-all *******. I dig all three designs in this post. Each has it's respective strong points. Just passing along something I read one time. I'm sure the diamond thing is more academic than anything.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post