florotory

Ok for the last few months I have been looking for an ecu that will fully fill what i am planning with the car (which is not a whole lot at this point). Basically I want to get rid of the MAF. not have to worry about a billion sensors on the car . Smooth out the idle and make the car reliable again.

I do plan on doing turbo upgrade with BNR turbo. also to run meth. and of coarse bigger injector (not sure what size yet).

The current mods are Apexi GT-Spec DP, Apexi GT-Spec exhaust,FMIC,Greddy Type S BOV, rats nest removal.

power goal is 300-350. Hopefully im not being greedy. but i think that is a fair goal.

Ive been emailing back and forth with C. Ludwig since about Nov. He has been more than helpful informing about the Haltech unit. Before I pull the trigger on buying it i want to make sure that there isnt a more affordable one that will be just as beneficial to me as the haltech. that way I can go ahead and possible get my upgrade as well. As always thanks for the help

florotory

oh ya the car is 87 TII

BLACK MAMBA

iTrader: (58)

wich Haltech are you looking at the?
also i think 300-350 is a pretty good number, listen to Ludwig, great guy to deal with and he knows his ecu.

florotory

i deff agree with ludwig being a great guy and knowledgable. just wanted to make sure it was going to be the right ecu for me. just didnt want to spend $1400 (if he makes the harness) and find out that for what im needing/wanting i coulda done if just a good for a lower price and used the savings to buy more parts

As far as the harness goes. im good with electronics. soldering /reading diagrams basic fundamentals. should I save the cost of having the harness made and use the flying lead? Im pretty confident that i can do the install.

Im looking at either the RE or the 1000 ill probably gona go with the lower of the 2 just cause i dont need a lot of outputs on it.

lastphaseofthis

iTrader: (8)

keep the AFM(not MAF) and r-tek for 400...

spend 1400 and lose the AFM, but much broader capabilites. (no longer limited by afm)

if 350 is the absolute max, i would just rtek it, but thats me... i do my own tuning, trouble-shooting, engine building, and the sort. My rx-7s aren't a money pit, but rather a time pit. time that i enjoy.

florotory

350 is what I would like. Fact is though I know once I get there it will seem boring after while and ill want more. I'm just in denial of that fact hehe. That's why the rtek wasn't one of the ones I was seriously considering. Although it did cross my mind.

I don't mind sending the money to do it correctly. I will own this car till I give it to my son and if he doesn't want it then ill keep it.

Evil Aviator

The standalone isn't really going to cut down on the sensors, but depending on the EMS model it may allow you to use new, cheap, easy to find sensors rather than the expensive crusty old stock sensors. It will most likely smooth out the idle as long as you have a decent tuner.

Be sure to discuss this with the EMS vendor. Most EMS products are limited in the number and type of injectors that they can run, and sometimes they will work better with certain configurations.

Microtech, SDS, and Megasquirt offer cheap EMS products, but I think you would be better off sticking with Ludwig's Haltech. Just keep in mind that local support really helps a lot because troubleshooting an EMS is really difficult over the phone or internet.

florotory

Thanks everyone. I think im going with the haltech RE version. I was suppose to call and rder it tonight but just got off work so ill do it tomarrow.

One last question. should i pay the couple hundred bucks to have the harness PnP/ or is it easy enough to do myself and spend the money else where?

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

I got Chris to make my harness up.
For one thing I didn't wanna sit there and solder wires all day,and another thing is I wanted it done Right,so I could Plug in and GO!

Evil Aviator

Keep in mind that the RE only works with high impedance (saturated) fuel injectors. If you want to use low impedance (peak & hold) fuel injectors then you will need to ghetto-rig it with a ballast resistor box.

It depends. If you have good wiring skills and you want to go through the extra effort of a custom wiring configuration (such as tucking the wiring) then you should get the flying lead. If you are concerned about making a mistake and causing major reliability problems, and/or you just want a quicker installation, then pay for the terminated harness. If you currently have the S4 TPS then you may want to ask Chris about changing to a S5 TPS or Haltech TPS.

florotory

also ive been rreading about issues of using the s4 TPS with the Haltech. I did a search on the subject and found lots of different ideas and solutions.

Can I use my s4 TPS or do i have to switch it? What is the best fix or am I able to retain the s4 TB and OMP. I DO NOT want to run premix. As always thanks

rxspeed7

iTrader: (5)

I'm pretty local to you and have installed and tuned various ecu's(microtech,haltech,powerfc,link,megasquirt) if you wanna talk some time or want help installing and tuning lmk man. My name is zack, I actually have quite a few friends in b-hills. My cell is 352-895-7036. I do all my tuning at the shop i work at called gns racing. We have tuned cars from stock to 1000rwhp race cars. We have a dyno in house also.

florotory

i just sent you a PM. I didnt know you had posted ^^ so disregaurd my dyno question. haha

florotory

now to find a decent priced s5 TB w TPS

oldsboomer

Loving this thread, learning lots as im looking into a EMS for my S5

otis rotis

There is new ecu call fueltech the one for rotory is ft400 it was at pana america this year