Chip or Standalone?
#6
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I still have no idea what you are trying to accomplish, but here goes...
Converting to a standalone EMS is much more complicated and expensive than fixing the stock AFM. If you are currently in a situation in which you can't figure out how to fix the AFM and can't afford to have a mechanic fix it, then you should work a few hours of overtime until you can afford to have a qualified mechanic fix it.
With appropriate add-ons and tuning, the stock AFM is good for about 400bhp. Many people like to keep the AFM because it compensates for slight differences in engine wear, unlike a standalone EMS or carburetor which must be retuned as the engine's volumetric efficiency changes. However, a standalone EMS is an excellent upgrade for those who are willing to spend a lot of money to gain maximum performance from their engine, regardless of the hp level.
In stock form your engine uses a mass airflow system which requires an airflow meter. Mass airflow means the system uses the AFM as the primary method of measuring airflow and mapping the fuel injection and ignition timing. A new MAP sensor will not change this because the stock system uses a MAP sensor only as a secondary reference, much like the throttle position sensor (TPS) is also used only as a secondary reference. The MAP sensor is a primary reference in the speed-density system listed below, which is probably the reason you have heard people talking about it. Anyway, here are your options for removing the AFM:
- Convert to a speed-density (RPM vs. MAP) system with a standalone EMS.
- Convert to an alpha-N (TPS vs. RPM) system with a standalone EMS (not recommended for turbocharged engines).
- Convert to a carburetor with a carb kit (not recommended for turbocharged engines).
With appropriate add-ons and tuning, the stock AFM is good for about 400bhp. Many people like to keep the AFM because it compensates for slight differences in engine wear, unlike a standalone EMS or carburetor which must be retuned as the engine's volumetric efficiency changes. However, a standalone EMS is an excellent upgrade for those who are willing to spend a lot of money to gain maximum performance from their engine, regardless of the hp level.
In stock form your engine uses a mass airflow system which requires an airflow meter. Mass airflow means the system uses the AFM as the primary method of measuring airflow and mapping the fuel injection and ignition timing. A new MAP sensor will not change this because the stock system uses a MAP sensor only as a secondary reference, much like the throttle position sensor (TPS) is also used only as a secondary reference. The MAP sensor is a primary reference in the speed-density system listed below, which is probably the reason you have heard people talking about it. Anyway, here are your options for removing the AFM:
- Convert to a speed-density (RPM vs. MAP) system with a standalone EMS.
- Convert to an alpha-N (TPS vs. RPM) system with a standalone EMS (not recommended for turbocharged engines).
- Convert to a carburetor with a carb kit (not recommended for turbocharged engines).
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#8
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The turbocharger operates independently of the throttle position. Therefore, the TPS is a poor indicator of the amount of air entering a turbocharged automotive engine.
A better solution is to use a speed-density system because a MAP sensor is a very good indicator for turbo boost, and therefore makes a much better primary sensor. The TPS can then be used as a secondary sensor for acceleration enrichment and deceleration enleanment.
Typical use:
Mass Airflow - Street Car
Speed-Density - Turbocharged High-Performance Car
Alpha-N - Non-Turbo Race Car
A better solution is to use a speed-density system because a MAP sensor is a very good indicator for turbo boost, and therefore makes a much better primary sensor. The TPS can then be used as a secondary sensor for acceleration enrichment and deceleration enleanment.
Typical use:
Mass Airflow - Street Car
Speed-Density - Turbocharged High-Performance Car
Alpha-N - Non-Turbo Race Car
#9
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The turbo opperates independantly of the throttle position just the same. Manifold pressure is just as a poor indication of air entering the engine.
You need to use both sensors. Not just throttle position for accel and development purposes. AlphaN is the prefered method for professional tuners.
EB Turbo
You need to use both sensors. Not just throttle position for accel and development purposes. AlphaN is the prefered method for professional tuners.
EB Turbo
The turbocharger operates independently of the throttle position. Therefore, the TPS is a poor indicator of the amount of air entering a turbocharged automotive engine.
A better solution is to use a speed-density system because a MAP sensor is a very good indicator for turbo boost, and therefore makes a much better primary sensor. The TPS can then be used as a secondary sensor for acceleration enrichment and deceleration enleanment.
Typical use:
Mass Airflow - Street Car
Speed-Density - Turbocharged High-Performance Car
Alpha-N - Non-Turbo Race Car
A better solution is to use a speed-density system because a MAP sensor is a very good indicator for turbo boost, and therefore makes a much better primary sensor. The TPS can then be used as a secondary sensor for acceleration enrichment and deceleration enleanment.
Typical use:
Mass Airflow - Street Car
Speed-Density - Turbocharged High-Performance Car
Alpha-N - Non-Turbo Race Car
#10
ok...
Well I geuss that answered the questions what could I do otherwise.
Well for me it's eather replace and have same problems or buy a standalone...
Only standalone I have any knowledge on in the Power FC, and mircotech anything else is quite new and unknown to me.
Any good doller value ones out their that someone would recommened.
Well for me it's eather replace and have same problems or buy a standalone...
Only standalone I have any knowledge on in the Power FC, and mircotech anything else is quite new and unknown to me.
Any good doller value ones out their that someone would recommened.
#11
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Get something that you will be able to get support for. call the manufacture, call the dealer, tell then what you want to do and listen to what they have to say. if you have a hard time getting a hold of them or are unsure of the things they tell you, look into a different system.
Lots of people will tell you "X" is better then "Y", or don't get "Z" cause it sucks. Even if it is the best ECU on the market, if it doesn't do what you want it to or you cant get support for it, don't use it. Systems you should look into are AEM EMS4, AEM EMS Series II, Haltech P1000, Haltech Sprint/RE 500, Any MoTec.
EB Turbo
Lots of people will tell you "X" is better then "Y", or don't get "Z" cause it sucks. Even if it is the best ECU on the market, if it doesn't do what you want it to or you cant get support for it, don't use it. Systems you should look into are AEM EMS4, AEM EMS Series II, Haltech P1000, Haltech Sprint/RE 500, Any MoTec.
EB Turbo
Well I geuss that answered the questions what could I do otherwise.
Well for me it's eather replace and have same problems or buy a standalone...
Only standalone I have any knowledge on in the Power FC, and mircotech anything else is quite new and unknown to me.
Any good doller value ones out their that someone would recommened.
Well for me it's eather replace and have same problems or buy a standalone...
Only standalone I have any knowledge on in the Power FC, and mircotech anything else is quite new and unknown to me.
Any good doller value ones out their that someone would recommened.
#12
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http://banzai-racing.com/store/S5_PFC_adapter.html
We have sub-forums for those and other EMS products if you want to browse or ask questions about them on this forum. However, I would still suggest that you talk to a tuner/dealer before buying anything.
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=37