wiring your drift car the "right" way.
09-20-10, 12:13 AM
#1
wiring your drift car the "right" way.
Guess what guys? Car is down....again.
No fail on my part....atleast i dont think. I'm not getting any juice from my battery to any part of the car. I have a short somewhere.
I've decided to put paint on hold and i just ordered a painless wiring catolog to thumb through.
I'm pulling the engine out after i have everything i need. The **** poor 20+ year old **** has to go so problems like this go away.
If any of you went through painless or another company please contribute what you've done, what you've bought....etc...
lets try and keep this a helpful thread so others who want to do the same can follow suit.
Thanks guys and girls.
No fail on my part....atleast i dont think. I'm not getting any juice from my battery to any part of the car. I have a short somewhere.
I've decided to put paint on hold and i just ordered a painless wiring catolog to thumb through.
I'm pulling the engine out after i have everything i need. The **** poor 20+ year old **** has to go so problems like this go away.
If any of you went through painless or another company please contribute what you've done, what you've bought....etc...
lets try and keep this a helpful thread so others who want to do the same can follow suit.
Thanks guys and girls.
09-20-10, 10:35 AM
#4
Too Many Questions
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What I am doing to my harness(engine and main) is checking continuity throughout the whole thing with a multimeter(DMM thing). When I get a circuit done, I wrap it with electrical tape, and then put those engine wire tubes over it. You may come across some wires that may need to be re-soldered.
I also check the metal were it will ground. I get the metal clean from rust, and when I put the grounding wire onto the bodybolt(which is clean too), I apply electrical grease.
Note:
Clean the wires
Clean your hands
Be patient
Some places may have a auto-ranging multimeter(saves alot of time)
P.S. In some other car forums, people actually de-pin and re-do the electrical system in their cars; like new wires and connectors!
Hope I helped!
Are you pulling the engine? Or just gonna work around it?
I also check the metal were it will ground. I get the metal clean from rust, and when I put the grounding wire onto the bodybolt(which is clean too), I apply electrical grease.
Note:
Clean the wires
Clean your hands
Be patient
Some places may have a auto-ranging multimeter(saves alot of time)
P.S. In some other car forums, people actually de-pin and re-do the electrical system in their cars; like new wires and connectors!
Hope I helped!
Are you pulling the engine? Or just gonna work around it?
09-20-10, 03:08 PM
#7
Yeah. That thing was probably the best investment i made. Oh, and my compression tester. It's useless on a rotary but i've used it to diagnose motors at u pulls and ****...
Russ, i'm doing that first. I've got plenty of 2-8 ga speaker wire i'll probably use as grounds. Terminals are clean and i tested the voltage on the actual battery clamps.
Um, whats really lame is the fact the ps/ac **** is in the way and it's really cramped working there. I have really big hands, not tiny japanese hands.
I downloaded the full pdf wiring diagram. Just chasing ghosts in the shell now. It's bullocks.
I made some de-pin tools out of some wiper blade parts. Trust me, there's miles of harness i'm not going to use and that insulation on the wires is so broken down from chemicals/age that i might as well get rid of it all....in due time.
Russ, i'm doing that first. I've got plenty of 2-8 ga speaker wire i'll probably use as grounds. Terminals are clean and i tested the voltage on the actual battery clamps.
Um, whats really lame is the fact the ps/ac **** is in the way and it's really cramped working there. I have really big hands, not tiny japanese hands.
I downloaded the full pdf wiring diagram. Just chasing ghosts in the shell now. It's bullocks.
I made some de-pin tools out of some wiper blade parts. Trust me, there's miles of harness i'm not going to use and that insulation on the wires is so broken down from chemicals/age that i might as well get rid of it all....in due time.
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09-20-10, 03:57 PM
#8
Russ, i'm praying its the negative battery ground. I'm going to string that entire bastard out and ground it about 6" from the battery to the chassis then beef up all my chassis grounds and even add some. I've got about 10' of wire to do so with. 
Fuses checked out ok. didn't find any frayed wires in my footwell or under the dash. Ho hum....
No new wheels. No paint, nothing. Bye bye n/a. Hello swap, full chassis prep and rewire. It needs to be done. There's so much hacked up **** in this car that wasn't my doing. I almost want to cry but i found some tampons and vagisil so i'm good now.
Fuses checked out ok. didn't find any frayed wires in my footwell or under the dash. Ho hum....No new wheels. No paint, nothing. Bye bye n/a. Hello swap, full chassis prep and rewire. It needs to be done. There's so much hacked up **** in this car that wasn't my doing. I almost want to cry but i found some tampons and vagisil so i'm good now.
09-20-10, 04:20 PM
#9
I'm using the sourthernrod 20 circuit chassis harness in my new track chassis.
http://www.southernrods.com/categori...oduct-635.html
Here's the nasty crap I gotta deal with.
I have rewired my efi harness multiple times. My current one is a wire tuck style with the harness entering the engine from the firewall instead of front.
http://www.southernrods.com/categori...oduct-635.html
Here's the nasty crap I gotta deal with.
I have rewired my efi harness multiple times. My current one is a wire tuck style with the harness entering the engine from the firewall instead of front.
09-20-10, 07:38 PM
#10
Sweet.
I had it fixed by bypassing the stock ground and using a 5ga ground directly from the negative to the strut tower. More throttle response, quicker start. Went for a spin around the block and everything felt good. Started it and shut it down about 5 or six times. Then smelled gas....oooooh gas. I have rebuilt injectors with new pintle caps and everything. Built em myself. Yet i look between the lim and block and gasoline. Yay. Lines checked out, rail fittings were good. Must be the lower o rings.....ok then. So i cleaned everything and put everything back together in the dark..... I reconnected my vac lines, the tps, throttle cable, ait sensor and the ground wire from the firewall to the tb. Alrighty. Reconnect my negative. Go to start the car and all the idiot lights light up like normal, the shift up light is on, no beeps or nothing so all systems are go.
I go to crank the car and hear CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK really fast and then no power. None. I disconnected the battery about 5 times and repeated this process five times. After "attempting" to crank the car, no juice unless i pull the negative and wait about 5 minutes.
My metal i was using for skid plates is now bent in half and i bent my steering wheel punching the **** out of it. My "bike/skateboard throwing fits" are moving on to my car and drifting. Fantastic. I'm pretty pissed. Car is a COCKTEASE
I had it fixed by bypassing the stock ground and using a 5ga ground directly from the negative to the strut tower. More throttle response, quicker start. Went for a spin around the block and everything felt good. Started it and shut it down about 5 or six times. Then smelled gas....oooooh gas. I have rebuilt injectors with new pintle caps and everything. Built em myself. Yet i look between the lim and block and gasoline. Yay. Lines checked out, rail fittings were good. Must be the lower o rings.....ok then. So i cleaned everything and put everything back together in the dark..... I reconnected my vac lines, the tps, throttle cable, ait sensor and the ground wire from the firewall to the tb. Alrighty. Reconnect my negative. Go to start the car and all the idiot lights light up like normal, the shift up light is on, no beeps or nothing so all systems are go.
I go to crank the car and hear CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK really fast and then no power. None. I disconnected the battery about 5 times and repeated this process five times. After "attempting" to crank the car, no juice unless i pull the negative and wait about 5 minutes.
My metal i was using for skid plates is now bent in half and i bent my steering wheel punching the **** out of it. My "bike/skateboard throwing fits" are moving on to my car and drifting. Fantastic. I'm pretty pissed. Car is a COCKTEASE
09-20-10, 08:29 PM
#11
Ok, dome light will come on after about 60 seconds after turning the key into the on position (without depressing the clutch or cranking) getting power cut. I'm really scratching my head at this. I might try swapping the cpu out and seeing if maybe i fucked mine up. I have a spare one in a box somewhere.... Either that or my starter **** the bed/shorted out.
09-21-10, 03:03 AM
#12
Ok, dome light will come on after about 60 seconds after turning the key into the on position (without depressing the clutch or cranking) getting power cut. I'm really scratching my head at this. I might try swapping the cpu out and seeing if maybe i fucked mine up. I have a spare one in a box somewhere.... Either that or my starter **** the bed/shorted out.
09-21-10, 03:07 AM
#13
the click click click really fast **** just means your battery is dead. just not enough to show symptoms...
how do i know, because the last two months ive been dealing with some piece of **** *** odyssey battery that ******* left me like this at an event. everything would come on, the fan, lights etc.... just would click like a ratchet. like the motor was locked (at first i thought someone dropped a bolt in that ****..)
i am not saying youre a dumbass or anything so dont get bent, just check it again, and go from there.
either way if you do the painless **** you will love it. i helped out on a few customer cars with it, and like the setup. i plan on doing it on my next chassis.
how do i know, because the last two months ive been dealing with some piece of **** *** odyssey battery that ******* left me like this at an event. everything would come on, the fan, lights etc.... just would click like a ratchet. like the motor was locked (at first i thought someone dropped a bolt in that ****..)
i am not saying youre a dumbass or anything so dont get bent, just check it again, and go from there.
either way if you do the painless **** you will love it. i helped out on a few customer cars with it, and like the setup. i plan on doing it on my next chassis.
09-21-10, 03:09 AM
#15
which sometimes is good, because when you buy a new engine harness, why skimp on using 20yr old AFM, Map sensor, knock sensor, injector resistor box **** and have them fraud out your $800 harness... so if u plan on buying all that, youre already doing it wrong...
making harness' really isnt super hard, you just have to get into it.
09-21-10, 07:50 AM
#16
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I use an ARC 8000 panel for the chassis(IGN, Start, Dash, Fuel Pump, Lights, Wipers)
Made my own Alternator circuit using an LED for voltage differential.
And the engine harness is Haltech.
Everything else is in a landfill somewhere.
Made my own Alternator circuit using an LED for voltage differential.
And the engine harness is Haltech.
Everything else is in a landfill somewhere.
09-21-10, 03:15 PM
#17
Exactly where the **** it belongs, Dave. I hear ya! You get the new setup on the 13bre done yet?
No, buckey, i assume it's not hard. I'm jumping on it. I'll make a day out of it, buy a case of beer, invite some friends over and we'll get busy. Every possible check i could do to see if it was a battery related issue was done. Including trying different batteries. Same ****. Jumping the car yeilded the same results too. I have a short or grounding issue further down the harness on the drivers side. I'm sure of it, atleast i ******* HOPE AND PRAY TO JOE PESCI that's what it is.
Next month, i'll start placing my orders to get **** done. I always looked at some of the baller builds seeing those custom boards and wiring thinking "i'll never do that. No need". Yeah. Might even get some mil spec connectors too.
No, buckey, i assume it's not hard. I'm jumping on it. I'll make a day out of it, buy a case of beer, invite some friends over and we'll get busy. Every possible check i could do to see if it was a battery related issue was done. Including trying different batteries. Same ****. Jumping the car yeilded the same results too. I have a short or grounding issue further down the harness on the drivers side. I'm sure of it, atleast i ******* HOPE AND PRAY TO JOE PESCI that's what it is.
Next month, i'll start placing my orders to get **** done. I always looked at some of the baller builds seeing those custom boards and wiring thinking "i'll never do that. No need". Yeah. Might even get some mil spec connectors too.
09-22-10, 03:05 PM
#22
I dont care what you say. ******* bastard.
I wish you would have put those up about 4-5 months ago. I would have drove down to pick em up. You know exactly what i'm talking about.
Seriously, you're right. The ground probably did take a dump. There's probably some more going on but i'll address things as they pop up until i get my kit.
I wish you would have put those up about 4-5 months ago. I would have drove down to pick em up. You know exactly what i'm talking about.
Seriously, you're right. The ground probably did take a dump. There's probably some more going on but i'll address things as they pop up until i get my kit.
09-25-10, 09:24 PM
#24
Dave's car is the ****, period.
So i'm planning on going ******* overboard with my grounding. The entire drivers side framerail harness is jacked and is getting completely de-loomed and redone. There are wires on the power side of things that have NO, i REPEAT NO rubber at all left on them. The ground/power area running along the strut tower is pretty much done. I just couldn't see it because bullshit was in the way.
The other sections of the engine harness look ok, atleast the sections i de-loomed after work. Dash before and after pics and this area's before and after pics later.
Like i said, overboard with the grounds. Blue 4ga wire everywhere. **** that ***** *** 8 ga chassis harness and 20ga remote grounds.
So i'm planning on going ******* overboard with my grounding. The entire drivers side framerail harness is jacked and is getting completely de-loomed and redone. There are wires on the power side of things that have NO, i REPEAT NO rubber at all left on them. The ground/power area running along the strut tower is pretty much done. I just couldn't see it because bullshit was in the way.
The other sections of the engine harness look ok, atleast the sections i de-loomed after work. Dash before and after pics and this area's before and after pics later.
Like i said, overboard with the grounds. Blue 4ga wire everywhere. **** that ***** *** 8 ga chassis harness and 20ga remote grounds.