wiring your drift car the "right" way.
07-06-11, 07:03 AM
#52
Rockin' 1st Gen
That wiring stuff looks like it came from this place: RotaryRelated
07-06-11, 01:05 PM
#53
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main harness that goes to the front of the car i fried mine same **** no power anywhere picked up a new one for 100 dollars but my door lights worked chassis **** should still work like interior lights etc
07-14-11, 04:34 PM
#55
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im surprised three pages and not one person has said a thing about mil spec connectors....
a lot of people seem to make them more complicated than they need to be, or maybe im not taking these connectors serious enough
.. dont you just buy about any mil spec connector work as long as theyre is enough connectors for your wiring and you have the right tool to go with the connector? or am i missing something? (and yes, of course, one that resists hi temps and water, and comes from a reputable connector company)
one of those mounted to the firewall would be badass..unbolt d-shaft, get to the engine & trans mounts, and unscrew your harness from firewall, maybe a few other little things here and there, and hoist out engine with picker and wa-la! you are done! it would seem smarter to take off all the electronics off the engine while it is out of the car, think of trying to get to the harder, side-of-the-block less seen crap while the engine still in the car.. all i know is when i get another fc and throw a piston engine in it, this is what i will be doing.
after being underneath my miata all day removing **** from under the intake manifold taht i can barely see in stupid hot summer weather, im not for making things harder for me than they need to be anymore....
i also quickly glanced through this for a minute, i didnt read everything or go through all the links though (gotta get back to work, lol):
https://www.rx7club.com/engine-management-forum-37/need-parts-build-nice-modular-engine-harness-my-sm2-363400/
anyone?
a lot of people seem to make them more complicated than they need to be, or maybe im not taking these connectors serious enough
.. dont you just buy about any mil spec connector work as long as theyre is enough connectors for your wiring and you have the right tool to go with the connector? or am i missing something? (and yes, of course, one that resists hi temps and water, and comes from a reputable connector company)one of those mounted to the firewall would be badass..unbolt d-shaft, get to the engine & trans mounts, and unscrew your harness from firewall, maybe a few other little things here and there, and hoist out engine with picker and wa-la! you are done! it would seem smarter to take off all the electronics off the engine while it is out of the car, think of trying to get to the harder, side-of-the-block less seen crap while the engine still in the car.. all i know is when i get another fc and throw a piston engine in it, this is what i will be doing.
after being underneath my miata all day removing **** from under the intake manifold taht i can barely see in stupid hot summer weather, im not for making things harder for me than they need to be anymore....
i also quickly glanced through this for a minute, i didnt read everything or go through all the links though (gotta get back to work, lol):
https://www.rx7club.com/engine-management-forum-37/need-parts-build-nice-modular-engine-harness-my-sm2-363400/
anyone?
Last edited by blindboxx2334; 07-14-11 at 04:38 PM.
07-14-11, 04:46 PM
#56
Nobody mentioned them because they are expensive. You can get the lower cost plastic ones which helps the cost out alot but you need to be careful on pin size selection for amperage capability and what not. Actually research the current capabilities of the parts before you buy anything.
e.g. 20AWG pins aren't for 25Amps and so on.
Although you probably don't have anything pulling 25A on the engine but a electric fan will easily pull that if it's worth using. If you needed to run that wire through that connector your going to need a better solution. Unless you like melted pins and possibly fire.
Fire is cool unless it's in your harness.
e.g. 20AWG pins aren't for 25Amps and so on.
Although you probably don't have anything pulling 25A on the engine but a electric fan will easily pull that if it's worth using. If you needed to run that wire through that connector your going to need a better solution. Unless you like melted pins and possibly fire.
Fire is cool unless it's in your harness.
07-14-11, 04:53 PM
#58
having a bulkhead connector isn't that important anyways unless you want the look. you could just as easily add a connector just behind the firewall grommet and not have to unplug the harness from the ecu. Then you could just pop the grommet loose and unplug the whole harness at once. Just depends on what you want I guess.
07-14-11, 04:57 PM
#59
What's the point??
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I spent a few hours on my harness the other night. Haven't touched much of the factory body harness yet, but got some stuff thinned out and cleaned up in addition to the 'squirts harness.
07-14-11, 04:59 PM
#60
^Yeah, I'm doing a ground up rewire of the track car. All wires are going to be removed and redone.
And since it's on topic.
My nasty rats nest I tried to keep some what simple for Altima Efans on my S13
Large gauge for power and ground.
Then 1 70 amp relay for low speed.
Then 2 relays for High speed power and Ground
Controlled by Dakota Digital Fan controller.
Ugly as hell but functional.
And since it's on topic.
My nasty rats nest I tried to keep some what simple for Altima Efans on my S13
Large gauge for power and ground.
Then 1 70 amp relay for low speed.
Then 2 relays for High speed power and Ground
Controlled by Dakota Digital Fan controller.
Ugly as hell but functional.
07-14-11, 06:02 PM
#62
If your talking megasquirt this might be useful:
S4
S5
Good guideline for useful factory wiring as opposed to the not useful factory wiring. Double check if you like I whipped these up for you in a few spare moments. Basically the red hashed ones are useless for the megasquirt in a regular install. You could of course use some of that stuff to accomplish certain tasks but mostly those wires are useless. Hope it helps a bit and doesn't confuse you LOL.
07-14-11, 06:33 PM
#63
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Big Al's 20b Race Car build has a bulk-head Milspec connector like mentioned - looks good!
But, most guys can't justify the cost of them over a couple of the vital ones.. I know I couldn't.
But, most guys can't justify the cost of them over a couple of the vital ones.. I know I couldn't.
07-14-11, 08:01 PM
#64
Learned alot | Alot to go
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While i dont have a drift car, i am 80% done rewiring my FC with a harness form EZ-Wiring. Harness and fuse block came with enough cricuts to run all the electrics in the FC. Im wiring them all into the stock switch's and gauge cluster. With the enterior in, the only thing you will notice is that all the electric's WORK
-Jacob
-Jacob
07-15-11, 02:46 AM
#65
What's the point??
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Haha. Useful for others maybe, I've got about 120 miles on it now. It's the second 'squirt in the car, and this time around I decided to make a harness with all mil-spec wires for the engine, and it enter the bay through the driver's side heater core hole. 
07-15-11, 04:01 AM
#67
What's the point??
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Oh, it happened...
FYI, thin acrylic sheets DO NOT like to be drilled, and aren't very flexible.
I still need to decide what to do about the rather large hole on the passenger side that has just the wiper motor wires coming through it.
FYI, thin acrylic sheets DO NOT like to be drilled, and aren't very flexible.
I still need to decide what to do about the rather large hole on the passenger side that has just the wiper motor wires coming through it.
07-15-11, 04:20 AM
#68
It's scary how similar your car looks to my buddy Mikey's car LOL.
Except his is neon green.
you should loom up that engine harness so it doesn't vibrate on the engine and get ruined. We used the other heater core hole on his car. He also has the same throttle body elbow LOL.
Except his is neon green.
you should loom up that engine harness so it doesn't vibrate on the engine and get ruined. We used the other heater core hole on his car. He also has the same throttle body elbow LOL.
07-25-11, 07:02 PM
#71
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I had left all my heat shrink at my storage unit. Every other connection is adhesive lined heat shrinked. As for looming, I've learned to make sure it works before looming it up. I'll take care of that before too long.
11-10-11, 06:29 AM
#74
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I get all my electrical parts from DIYAutoTune or DigiKey. I'm currently doing a complete rewire to my vert and my '79 Volvo 242, both of which are repowered with non-oem engines (Ford 5.0 in the vert, Merc 5-cylinder diesel in the 242). Aside from management (MS in the vert, 1 power wire for the 242 lol) they should be identical harnesses. Both are street/track cars.
In for more baller wiring pics and info.
In for more baller wiring pics and info.
