USDRFTR's Pro am build(rebuild)
Just Drift has a rule that would have saved my car had I remembered it,
"if your car doesn't have a cage, don't drift the esses, you can flip your car."
That was my first time on Horse Thief at Willow Springs. The first session in the morning was awesome! I was killing it.
I started the next session and the same thing, only this time around, I carried the drifting into the esses and then it dawned on me that I'm not supposed to drift here. I tried to stop the drift, but I was carrying too much momentum. My drift turned into a full sideways 4 wheel slide. I was heading sideways to the dirt hill next to the esses. I knew I was going to hit sideways, so I decided to go for it. I put it in second and floored it.
Dirt drop+full power into and up a dirt embankment= roof.
As soon as I hit the dirt, it toed out my passenger rear wheel...
The hub broke but the axle was still sending power to the wheel up the hill.
Had I payed attention and stopped my drift before entering the esses, I'd stil have my old 7 today.
Everthing happens for a reason though.
"if your car doesn't have a cage, don't drift the esses, you can flip your car."
That was my first time on Horse Thief at Willow Springs. The first session in the morning was awesome! I was killing it.
I started the next session and the same thing, only this time around, I carried the drifting into the esses and then it dawned on me that I'm not supposed to drift here. I tried to stop the drift, but I was carrying too much momentum. My drift turned into a full sideways 4 wheel slide. I was heading sideways to the dirt hill next to the esses. I knew I was going to hit sideways, so I decided to go for it. I put it in second and floored it.
Dirt drop+full power into and up a dirt embankment= roof.
As soon as I hit the dirt, it toed out my passenger rear wheel...
The hub broke but the axle was still sending power to the wheel up the hill.
Had I payed attention and stopped my drift before entering the esses, I'd stil have my old 7 today.
Everthing happens for a reason though.
^^^^ Seriously. It takes a lot of courage to get back on the horse after a big wreck.
The Current build looks great. Have you test fitted those chaser fenders yet?? I was thinking of getting the same ones but with no available reviews or testimonials I was terrified of the fitment.
The Current build looks great. Have you test fitted those chaser fenders yet?? I was thinking of getting the same ones but with no available reviews or testimonials I was terrified of the fitment.
^^^^ Seriously. It takes a lot of courage to get back on the horse after a big wreck.
The Current build looks great. Have you test fitted those chaser fenders yet?? I was thinking of getting the same ones but with no available reviews or testimonials I was terrified of the fitment.
The Current build looks great. Have you test fitted those chaser fenders yet?? I was thinking of getting the same ones but with no available reviews or testimonials I was terrified of the fitment.
Progress has slowed on the new 7 until I can get the old 7 completely gutted and off to the scrap yard so I can have my trailer free again!
looking at and studying damage from roll over, and taking pics.
AWR's LCA heim'd pivot point...
You can see how it differs from the stock ball joint, plus the angle is better for racing applications over stock. PLUS, the spacer is used to actually raise or lower the spindle seperate of the car/control arm/coil over. Used for Ackerman I believe.
Plus the LCA's have needle bearings instead of bushings, where it attaches to the subframe. These are over $400 each LCA. Hopefully the arms are useable.
The rear toe arm from AWR after dirt dropping it hard!
Damage done the rear subframe that the hub attaches to...
This ear is kinda bent
The hub broke apart
Look at that ANGLE!!!
looking at and studying damage from roll over, and taking pics.
AWR's LCA heim'd pivot point...
You can see how it differs from the stock ball joint, plus the angle is better for racing applications over stock. PLUS, the spacer is used to actually raise or lower the spindle seperate of the car/control arm/coil over. Used for Ackerman I believe.
Plus the LCA's have needle bearings instead of bushings, where it attaches to the subframe. These are over $400 each LCA. Hopefully the arms are useable.
The rear toe arm from AWR after dirt dropping it hard!
Damage done the rear subframe that the hub attaches to...
This ear is kinda bent
The hub broke apart
Look at that ANGLE!!!
OMG. Well that's a testament to how tough your aftermarket parts were.
You can replace the heim on that rod and reuse it. It bent the weaker, cheaper part as it was designed to vs snapping the rod in half or "L-ing" it.
Those awr lower ball/heim joints, do tell about those! Interested and i've never seen em before! Roll center adjustment built in!!!!!!
You can replace the heim on that rod and reuse it. It bent the weaker, cheaper part as it was designed to vs snapping the rod in half or "L-ing" it.
Those awr lower ball/heim joints, do tell about those! Interested and i've never seen em before! Roll center adjustment built in!!!!!!
OMG. Well that's a testament to how tough your aftermarket parts were.
You can replace the heim on that rod and reuse it. It bent the weaker, cheaper part as it was designed to vs snapping the rod in half or "L-ing" it.
Those awr lower ball/heim joints, do tell about those! Interested and i've never seen em before! Roll center adjustment built in!!!!!!
You can replace the heim on that rod and reuse it. It bent the weaker, cheaper part as it was designed to vs snapping the rod in half or "L-ing" it.
Those awr lower ball/heim joints, do tell about those! Interested and i've never seen em before! Roll center adjustment built in!!!!!!
I did drop off coil overs to JIC for inspection. It appears I only bent one top hat on the rear coil over. They are checking the valving today and I should be able to pick them up tomorrow. Inspection is free, and $20 to fix the top hat. Damn good customer service I'd say.
Anthony's about an hour and fifteen away from you (Vista). I don't have his address. Just call him up and he'll provide one for you.....
http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&tab=wl
Highly intelligent and will help you configure your ride to exactly what you're looking to do.
http://www.awrracing.com/
http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&tab=wl
Highly intelligent and will help you configure your ride to exactly what you're looking to do.
http://www.awrracing.com/
Dreamin' of Rotary
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 145
Likes: 0
From: Utah
http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/296725...on-thread.html
I got another 7 to part out so I haven't been spending much time on the drift7's progress, but I ran -6 fuel line from engine compartment to fuel tank, then modified my pump/level assembly to accept -6 an fittings to attach my fuel filter and fuel line to.
I can still mount my FD fuel pump and pre filter in the original location.
Also, laid out my S5 wire harness into this S4 chassis. Later I will figure out what sensors, wires, etc that aren't needed with the Haltech E8, for now I don't have the time or knowleadge. Anyone know??
i dont know which wires are tied in with other ones etc...
props on the fuel pump holder mod! i've been WAY confused on what to do with mine. good info!